Technical Articles
Technical articles and how-to articles
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Since there have been numerous questions on the subject I thought this would be a big help to anyone planning on swapping transmissions or rear ends in the future. This is an excerpt from an answer to a tech question from the old Z Car magazine. If anyone has the magazines it is in the Nov/Dec 1997 issue on page 10 and 11. The stock transmission gears are as follows: 240Z 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 4 speed type A 3.549 2.197 1.420 1.00 4 speed type B 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.00 280Z 5 speed 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.00 .864 280ZX 5 spee…
Last reply by Bleach, -
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- 5 replies
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This was taken from a thread posted awhile back. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1309 Go ahead and replace the hoses. And do not use heater hose. I used that initially, but still had to replace them a few years down the road. The fuel vapors will harden the heater hose and cause it to crack, causing leaks. The only 2 hoses I've ever seen that needed to be replaced are the long 1/2" hose and the 5/8" hose w/ 180 degree bend. The short 1-1/4" hose from the filler neck to the expansion tank typically is fine. (I've looked at over 10 cars in junk yards and on everyone of them this hose was fine.) The 1/2" & 5/8" hose can be bought at …
Last reply by 240znz, -
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I could not stand the "sticky agressive" throttle any more. It is where you start to give it gas and it kind of sticks and then gives, making it hard to get a smooth start. After reading all the posts this appears to be a common problem on the early Z's and I could not find any pictures except for the tech article on ZHOME.COM I decided to take off the "arm" grind off the weld and reposition it to see if I could get it to smooth out. As you can see in the pictures it did not take much of a turn, in fact I would turn it a bit LESS because I had to shorten the top rod almost to it's max and unscrew in the accelerator rod a 1/4" to get the throttle to open all the way. T…
Last reply by 240ZX, -
- 6 replies
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Shot Peening - A Practical Guide For The Racer The principal function of peening is to increase the fatigue life of cyclically stressed parts. Small steel balls (shot) hammer the part, compacting the surface, which relieves both surface and granular stresses. The process builds a tough outer layer which is very resistant to fatigue cracking. This protective skin actually strengthens the part. The usefull life of a properly peened part is usually two to five times that of an untreated part. Shot peening is of most benefit on con rods and crankshafts. It can also be applied to almost any part subject to fatigue cracking. The following preparation is necessary before a part …
Last reply by Tourniqet, -
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I found these in the junkyard today in the back of a 1980 280ZX. The first two scans are of a 'Datsun Differential Pinion Height & Preload Instructions' pamphlet. It seems to be from late 1976 or early 1977. I thought they might be of interest.
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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Edited version of the previous attachment.
Last reply by gundee, -
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This was posted to our mailing list by steve j daniels, Hey folks; I saw all of the talk about brake bleeding kits. The speed bleeders are pretty cool, I checked out their web site, and I think the idea is sound, but it'll cost you 31 dollars a car (seven dollars a bleeder and 3 dollars shipping). I have a Mighty Vac, I thought that was pretty cool for a while also. But if you ever used one, you know that sooner or later you'll run into the situation where you have to empty the reservoir and you end up spill brake fluid all over your hands...worse yet you pump brake fluid through the "pump head", and over time brake fluid softens and swells the rubber hoses and "fittings"…
Last reply by LEN168, -
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I was cleaning up a old hard drive and I found a copy of Handy Dandy Dennis (AKA Rough Idle) Cheat sheet. There is a wealth of info on the file so I put it up at the following link. http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/240z.htm
Last reply by V8-240Z, -
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Exploded view of 40phh and 44phh.
Last reply by gundee, -
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I just took my 73 240z Valve cover off, I was trying to polish it, but it just doesn't brighten up?? 1) I first used paint thether to take off the paint. 2) then I used the wheel cleaner to take off the dirt and old paint. 3) then I rubbed Mother's Bullet polisher($11, the best in the store). and rubbed it so hard, till all the black oilly stuff came out.... and clean it with a clean colth. and it just doesn't brighten up? Do I need to use sand paper first to get it smooth first? or what? I need help bad!! what do I need to do to get that factory polished look? Thanks guys!
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 0 replies
- 2.4k views
I came across this... http://www.biopatent.com/struts.html and http://www.biopatent.com/rearstruts.html
Last reply by thefastestz, -
- 0 replies
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IMPORTANT: When removing the brake booster, or installing a used one, it is critical that you do not pull out the engine-bay side pushrod of the brake booster. The so-called "reaction disc", which is a solid rubber disc about the diameter of a quarter, can fall off inside the booster. The result will very poor brake feel - you will have a deep spongy pedal and then all of the sudden you will get full braking and the car will stand on its nose. If this has happened to you: Pry the retainer ring out of the engine-bay-side of the booster, and pull the pushrod out. Turn the booster upside down and shake it until teh reaction disc falls out. Use some tacky grease on the …
Last reply by benn9090,
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