Technical Articles
Technical articles and how-to articles
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AFM/ Fuel Pump 1 2 3
by Packerz- 1 follower
- 33 replies
- 4.4k views
Hello all! I have a 77280 with a “stroker” modified engine. PO replaced stock Throttle Body (with ZX?/larger intake?)and apparently the AFM (To fit the TB? current AFB has fuel pump “pins” “bridged” thus creating FP engagement w/ key “ON” rather than mechanical w/ engine and starter. Before I get “flamed”?..I recognize danger in wreck...this why desire to replace back to starter FP energize! Can I just unbridge pins and return to factory electrical wiring energize? Replace AFM? Must I replace AFM, and TB, to stock-will all wiring be back to stock, etc.? Plug and play with stock part(s)? Thank you, all!
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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- 7 followers
- 47 replies
- 24.3k views
Comparison Photos: 280z on left 240z on right Front (note 280z screw hole) Bottom Top Back Back Harness (Note white current loop on 240z and red voltage pickup wire on 280z) 280z back (Green is 12V and black is ground) 280z and 240z connector comparison. (Note the different locations for Gnd and +12V. It is neat to see the location for the tach signal input is in the same part of the can...clever engineering and evolution).
Last reply by Blitzed, -
- 3 followers
- 25 replies
- 12.9k views
Hi folks, I could use your help. We have a 1971 Series 1 240Z in our shop. It is a Resto-Mod car. It is almost finished, waiting on some Weber jets to finish tuning. In the process of confirming the car will pass a road inspection we discovered the rear window defroster is not working. We also found the windshield washer motor is not working, have not looked into that issue yet. Everything else works as it is suppose to. The wiring harness and rear window defroster is from a series 1 car, the fuse box and rear window defroster switch is from a series 2 car. We have ran on ohms test on the defroster wires in the hatch, the switch and the wires from the switch to …
Last reply by Ed Brock, -
- 7 followers
- 111 replies
- 27.1k views
I thought I would post this up here instead of burying it in my build thread. Does any one have ideas on how to bench test a brake booster? I have an assortment of 5 or so small boosters. I would like to bench test them to see if any of them are good. Then restore the best candidate Thoughts?
Last reply by ToolBoy, -
- 4 followers
- 44 replies
- 4.7k views
I've had my 83 zx in the driveway for over a year, haven't driven it on the road yet, more rust than car, but ready to start if I can figure out my problem. It runs and will move but before I start, I want to do away with the fuel injection and all the electronics. I found a 4 barrel intake, expensive but worth it to me. What should I do about the electronic ignition? I was thinking about points, but can't find a points distributor anywhere online. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I was going to swap out the 6 for a 350 but I've grown attached to the inline 6. I've looked everywhere for info on this and I'm just about ready to give up.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 1 follower
- 25 replies
- 11.2k views
Hi all, There has been some discussion about how to go about fixing the clocks that are driven by the small electric motor. I managed to fix the type that are driven by a small electric circuit. I promised to write up something and post it. I finally did it. I couldn't help myself from drawing up a few things and trying to make my little write-up look nice. I was pretty happy with it and showed my wife last night. She called me a nerd! How do you like that?! I have attached it (hope this works) If anyone has any corrections or comments, I would love to hear them. Eric How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1.pdf
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
- 7.4k views
Like many people, I fell in love with the performance brake system from Arizona Z Car. The Wilwood brakes are great. I spoke at length with Dave from AZC and he promised me a working park brake solution (required to pass inspections here) for the kit “in a couple of weeks... I ordered the front and rear setup and patiently waited for the park brake solution. It never appeared. Two years of waiting and almost monthly calls and emails always ended up with “another two weeks”... At this point I became fed up with waiting and set about to find my own solution. After dealing with Silvermine Motors on some other key pieces, I noticed that Edan had developed a similar system …
Last reply by wheee!, -
- 4 followers
- 20 replies
- 19.2k views
This is some excellent information as posted to our mailing list: >Hey guys! Does anyone know a rough estimated price_for a frame up >restoration? >The body of my 73 240Z isn't bad off but the more I hear you guys >talk...I think this is >the way I am going to want to go. Keep in mind I am not horribly >mechanically inclined >so this would most likely be done at a shop. (Need to find one of >those here in >Maryland too.) Hi Shannon: Let's just assure that the terms we use have the same meaning to both of us. "Restoration" - to return to "as new" condition. The "goal" of restoring a Classic Car is to return it in every detail to the cond…
Last reply by hazmat257, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 2.8k views
Last night the dashboard instrument lights, parking lights and tail lights on my 72 240z shut down when i turned the combo switch on. I noticed that the 15 amp fuse inside the fuse holder provided by Dave Irwin Parking light harness kit went south. Replaced it with another 15 amp and even a 20 amp fuse dashboard lights, tail lights and parking lights came in for 2 seconds and the fuse went out again. I believe the problem resides in the harness upgrade. Last time this happened i removed it from the circuit and connected the stock female and male 6 wire connectors together and all the lights came back. Could there be an issue with the relays provided in the kit? Should i…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 4.8k views
I drove my 83 280zx until the engine was hot enough to cause a vapor lock on start up after being parked about ten minutes in 90 degree heat. The fan that cools the fuel rails never kicked on. I knew the fan worked properly because after turning the engine off I pulled the lead from the thermostat switch located on the thermostat housing and ground it, and immediately the Fan started working. I knew then that my problem was the fan switch the screws into the thermostat housing so I ordered a new one and replaced it and I still got the same result. I don’t think the Fan would’ve kicked on if the engine was on fire. After that I searched on eBay and found the small thermost…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 2.5k views
Does anyone know what the correct spark plug wires should be on a 1970 432? Or a contact that would know. Ours currently has some aftermarket ones that are bright blue and do not appear period correct. This car is pretty much perfect besides the wrong spark plug wires. Chassis PS30-00092 Thanks, Justin
Last reply by Art 'n Motion, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 5.1k views
I'm copying this from another thread I posted to and putting it here for posterity.... For those that have slow wipers and have determined it not the wiper motor, this is an easy way to help clean things up. Pull the motor and wiper arm assembly out of the cowling area and out of the car. Your wiper arm "pivots" are what is stuck. Put the pivot arm into a vise to hold it still. On the part of the shaft that the wiper blade arm attaches to, you'll see a small little snap-ring around the the shaft just above the pivot base. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and remove that snap-ring. Then slowly work the pivot base off of the pivot shaft. This part is what will take you …
Last reply by SoCalJim,
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