Technical Articles
Technical articles and how-to articles
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I am now selling the "Parking Light Upgrade Harness" that was mentioned earlier this month. After a lot of research and as far as I can tell, It will work on all 240Z's. If the 260Z or 280Z's headlight switch's plug are anything like the 240's, the new harness might even work for them as well. not sure yet. I'll do some more research on the 260 and 280Z's, but for now, I'm ready to take and recieve orders. And now for the final price, which has the S/H included in said price. After ordering, TAX, assembly labor and every thing else I put into these harness's, the final price is....... $37.00 inside the lower 48 states. The price will obviously be higher if I have t…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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My rear tire sidewalls were rubbing against the rear quarter panel's lip: Quarter panel's lip before rolling: (the tire actually caught on the lip, and yanked it downwards slightly) Have the car up on jack stands, and remove the wheel. Mounting the fender roller tool: Adding the lug nut washers: Lug nuts on, and slightly tightened: What the tool looks like fully mounted: Since I'm working on the rear, the e-brakes will need to be released. Tool is positioned with slight pressure on the panel lips. Red knob tightened to lock the tool length in place. Head roller angle is also tightened and locked into place: With slight pressure already on the pan…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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So I broke down and finally bought the MSA ZG fender flares for my 260Z project. I hope to have the car done and driving down the road by spring of 2010. But we all know how that "Hope" can be changed to "wanted to be done" So after looking at as many pictures as I could find, I think I figured out which flare goes where, as they are NOT marked with any kind of identifying marks to give you a clue. The fronts and rears are different so that makes that part easier. (Fronts are skinnier than the rears) The rears have a wider section on one part of the top than the other. The wider section, for some reason goes towards the doors. (I swapped flares for 1/2 hour till I cam…
Last reply by tiresmokindad, -
- 0 replies
- 5k views
The DCOM series of weber carbs were the replacement carbs for the Weber DCOE production. The Italian Weber DCOE production lines ceased in the middle of the 1980's and these carbs were the next evolution.Weber didn't forsee though that the electronic fuel injection systems would replace carburetors. The DCOM has improved performance over the DCOE carbs and more lasting on/off use due to the perfected acceleration pump diaphragm and adjustable pump lever. DCOM carbs will bolt on any standard side draft weber 40 DCOE carburettor manifold and uses the same inner parts, namely jets,needles, seats and floats as the former DCOE carbs. I believe this information to be very a…
Last reply by mattbibbey, -
- 8 replies
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A few years back, I decided I had to do something about the way the driver's door on my '72 closed. I had to slam it, and it sounded like metal striking metal every time. After hours of cursing and filing the striker plate in a vain effort to get it to close without slamming, I discovered that there's a little rubber boot that's supposed to fit over the lobe on the latch, and it was missing. Over the years, as worn hinges caused the door to sag, the rubber boot wore out and dropped off. Just the loss of thickness of that boot caused the latch to begin its rotation too late as the door is closed. That delay in rotation caused a metal-to-metal collision, making it difficul…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I have been having an intermittent issue with the 810 shutting off for no reason.Also,it would go full rich and not start on other occasions.I'm partially bald now,thanks to this issue. A tug on one of the wires entering the ECM would make the car start.So i went thru the connectors and all related stuff.STILL would shut off.At this point the wife is vacuuming hair out of the car on a daily basis. Then i got the idea to take the ECM apart.And i found bad solder joints.In the pics you can see a row of solder joints(Xacto blade is pointing to them)Three of them were bad.The blades run thru the side of the box and then make a 90 degree turn and "land"on a circuit board.W…
Last reply by Z train, -
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- 11 replies
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This is an writeup I posted a while back in a regular thread but it should really be here in the articles forum. Edit: changed attachment from pdf to zipped pdf. Repairing 240Z combination.zip
Last reply by Zedfoot, -
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- 7 replies
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I received an e-mail from mdbrandy and he mentioned finding this article on another website. He mentioned that it had been helpful to him, and felt it might help others. So, in the hopes that it will, here it is. The double line spacing between paragraphs is in case you print it out and use it as a checklist. Enrique Scanlon ============================================= I did this years ago, on another 240Z. Working mine up to that point in it's recovery. Since the first z was disassembled in a haphazard manner, (fixing one thing only to discover ANOTHER thing needed fixing which in turn.....ad nauseaum. Sound familiar?) I'll address your question from what I discovered…
Last reply by Zedfoot, -
- 15 replies
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I scanned these from a book and spent hours cleaning them up. 1) Put them in "paint" or some other (programming) and make a master piece. 2) Print them out and use then in the shop for.... dent locations, body modifications, see your car with tinted windows etc, etc. Do what you want with them, Have the kids color them in while deviously planning their future in the Z-car era.:cheeky:
Last reply by extreme_accordion, -
- 6 replies
- 3.8k views
From a fellow Z freind named Blue. here is the link http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/index.html Many subjects covered, I hope you enjoy this, this man took a lot of time to do this all for everyone to use and enjoy. James
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
- 5 replies
- 2.6k views
I redid this to try a better copy. Print out and try it. Just need to go measure your tire diameter.
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 0 replies
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This is a post originally shared in 1996 on the old Z-car list which ended about 2008. Re-shared for your pleasure.... 24 Apr 96 16:42:56 CST6CDT KEEPER - DASH REMOVAL PROCEDURE: 79-83 ZX I have removed the dash numerous times in 82 and 83 ZX models. Thought I'd post this...can't find my original post in my archives. NOTE: The steering wheel should be removed. It makes the process much simpler. "Par time" to remove dash and steering wheel is @2 hours first time, @75 minutes thereafter. Re-installing is about 1 hour longer. Special tools: Steering wheel puller #2 (large tip) Philips screwdriver (optional) Large metric socket to fit shaft nut on steering wheel. Steps…
Last reply by Pilgrim,
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