Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,802 topics in this forum
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1972 FSM 1 2
by 240260280z- 1 follower
- 22 replies
- 12k views
1972 FSM EF Engine Fuel System.pdf BF Body.pdf BR Brake System.pdf CL Clutch.pdf CO Cooling System.pdf Contents forward.pdf cover.pdf EC Emission Control System.pdf EE Engine Electrical.pdf
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
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- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 201 views
I have a 1972 240Z that I'm having an issue with. This past year on a club run, I lost both the temperature and fuel gauges. Prior to losing them I noticed the readings were way off, and swinging slowly from one end to the other before both stopped working all together. I had a similar issue on my Datsun Roadster that I traced down to a faulty instrument voltage regulator, which steps voltage down from 12 volts to about 9 volts for those two functions. I'm wondering if that may be the same issue on my 240Z. I've seen photos of a box on the back side of a 1973 240Z that someone told me provided the same function. If true I'm wondering if that was only on 1973 models, or e…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
Zinc platers 1 2 3
by Patcon- 9 followers
- 29 replies
- 3.1k views
I am wondering who everyone is using around the country and how do you feel about the results? It would be nice to find a plater that could handle the Datsun hardware and make it look good but wasn't irritated at helping the hobbyist out. Distance is really irrelevant because the difference in postage is insignificant to getting good plating. I have been trying out a plater in Phoenix who will for the immediate future remain nameless. I have been less than impressed!!! I sent a package out weeks ago. Got strung along with they're almost done, almost done for the last couple of weeks. They called and took payment last week and I received a box today. The par…
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 159 views
I posted this issue in my quarter window install thread but wanted to give it is own thread to get more eyeballs on it. Car is a 1976 280z. I just installed my quarter windows and I'm having a bit of interference with the weatherstrip on the top of the door and the vertical weatherstrip on the front of the quarter window. All the weatherstripping is brand new from Precision. How did this work from the factory? Was there interference? Looks like I should probably trim the quarter window weatherstrip back to provide clearance for the door weatherstrip. Any other thoughts?
Last reply by fusion, -
- 70 followers
- 2.8k replies
- 236.1k views
So many Z's, of all numerologies, have popped up that I thought it might be good to collect them here. Feel free to add old or new stuff. There's a bunch out there right now, for some reason. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-26/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-38/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64614-1270-on-ebay-barn-find/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62501-brand-new-280z/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64653-1970-nissan-fairlady-z-hs30-03647-on-craigslist/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/64539-31k-miles-series-i-240z-up-for-auction-on-bat-over-100k-on-first-…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 13 followers
- 57 replies
- 4.8k views
Hello all, I would like to do a little advertising for this channel here. One of my Z friends is restoring a 240Z and has a very special way of documenting it. I think you will all be very interested and it is super relaxing to watch. In general, this is a very exciting channel!
Last reply by Mike, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 1k views
After more than 50 years my original hood release cable finally gave up the ghost, breaking right at the release latch. The entire replacement is available for around $75, but I thought I'd take a shot at refurbishing the old component parts. Where the cable goes into the T handle, it was originally crimped in place by the factory. My first step was to grind flat the end of the metal rod threaded into the T handle that the cable went into, center punch the end, and drill the center out about 1-1/2" deep with a 1/16" drill, to fit a 1/16" braided cable from the local hardware store (you'll need roughly 4 feet). I also picked up some aluminum crimp on cable stops for the en…
Last reply by Randalla, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 842 views
After more than 50 years my original hood release cable finally gave up the ghost, breaking right at the release latch. The entire replacement is available for around $75, but I thought I'd take a shot at refurbishing the old component parts. Where the cable goes into the T handle, it was originally crimped in place by the factory. My first step was to grind flat the end of the metal rod threaded into the T handle that the cable went into, center punch the end, and drill the center out about 1-1/2" deep with a 1/16" drill, to fit a 1/16" braided cable from the local hardware store (you'll need roughly 4 feet). I also picked up some aluminum crimp on cable stops for the en…
Last reply by Randalla, -
- 53 followers
- 1k replies
- 152.1k views
Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Every…
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
- 4 followers
- 13 replies
- 611 views
Hey All, Is there anything Z related on sale this week worth looking at? Jeff
Last reply by Chris Holt, -
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
- 332 views
I own a 1978 280Z that runs well when I press the gas pedal smoothly. However, if I try to accelerate quickly or shift faster while pressing the pedal aggressively, it feels like the fuel flow cuts off. The RPMs remain steady, but the car loses power. If I ease off the pedal, the issue resolves. The car runs fine as long as I’m not too abrupt with the accelerator—it only happens when I press it quickly. Any ideas as to what is going on?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 120 views
Hi Guys, I have a $73.84 gift card from ZCD. Willing to sell it for $50 if anyone buying stuff from there and want to save $23 shot me a msg. I take PayPal. Appreciate.
Last reply by MH77280Z,
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