Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,795 topics in this forum
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- 4 followers
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Hello, I purchased a complete weatherstripping rubber seal kit from zcardepot.com. By process of elimination, I believe I've located the Cowl Hood Weatherstrip per the attached pictures. The p/n's on the individual kit pieces don't match zcardepot.com's website p/n's so it hasn't been a very straight forward task ... anyway, my question is, should the seal be positioned in the forward position (fig 3) or aft position (fig 1)? The original seal doesn't have the upper flat rather it was just a "u" shape that was fitted snug to the metal upright angle (fig 2)
Last reply by Obie 280Z, -
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- 3 followers
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"oh yeah, forgot i had that" several years i bought some spares from a guy here in-state, i don't remember much about him or the transaction. anyway, the parts i bought were the interior plastics - rear, sides, and roof for my 260. when i met him to pick up the parts he brought along a box of other stuff and asked if i wanted it. i opened the flap of the box, identified it as wiring, and didn't give it much more thought than that. i waffled a bit, and then on general principle said "sure, i'll take it" without really knowing what was there or if i needed it. today i remembered that box. and what i received for the price of the plastics included the engine bay …
Last reply by anthony_c, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 592 views
I got the hatch open from the inside. Now what can I do to fix the problem. Should I move the lock part on the hatch forward or backwards ? Or should I just play with it ? Also if you get a new lock or are restoring a 71Z, leave the hatch panel off until you have the hatch opening and closing properly. Thank you.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 694 views
I put the new lock and catch on my car, now it won't open. I tried different keys, etc. The key turns the lock. I pushed it down. Tried many ways. What can I do ? Thank you very much. 71Z.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 4 followers
- 10 replies
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Looking for some detail on the rear speaker enclosure like MSA sells for 2 6x9's. and replaces the stock rear plastic panel over the tail lights They have been out of stock for sometime on the one for 1977. I had already purchased the low profile Retrosound speakers needed for its installation. Thanks for you assistance !
Last reply by d9inger, -
240Z Window woes 1 2 3
by loudoun- 5 followers
- 28 replies
- 6.5k views
I have a 70 build 240Z and recently the drivers window refuses to roll up. It had this problem previously and I got it to work, but the same problem is back. However, before I tear the door apart, I wanted to ask the forum if they had experienced this before and how they solved it. Here are the symptoms: The window will roll up several inches, but them gets jammed and refuses to budge. It rolls back no problem. It also seems to interfere with the door release handle. Any ideas before I go the route of taking it all apart again? Thanks!
Last reply by joe newsom, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
- 3.7k views
My car had this on it when I bought it in 1985. I have never seen another Z with one on it. I have heard that this was a warranty replacement one, but if it was, why wouldn't it had been orange? I know they switched at some time to this blue for all their air cleaners, but wouldn't they have stopped producing this by then?
Last reply by 240260280, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 930 views
I don't understand the hatch lock parts I have. The lock without the key has 3 flanges for 3 notches that are on the early Z's. ( 3 notches on the hatch door ). The lock with the key has 4 flanges. I see that they have a 4 flange lock at the Zstore. They say that early Z's will need mods so the 4 flange lock will fit the early 3 notch hatch. Having said that, will the lock with the key work on my 71 if I cut another notch in the hatch. Also, am I missing something on the lock without the key ? ( 71, 3 flange lock ) Thank you very much.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
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Just thought I would share the progress on my 1970 240Z Engine and Engine Bay upgrade. Engine is a Stage 4 from Datsun Spirit in Virginia. I went old school with triple Mikuni's (love the sound and responsiveness). It's been about 15 months to get to this stage. Lots of internal upgrades on every engine component, cam, crank, head, block, rods, pistons, valves, etc. Went Kameari Headers and Exhaust (Exhaust still on a boat from Japan), T3 coilovers, R200 Diff, 300ZX halfshafts, Disc Brakes Upgrade. TEC-gt200 Engine Management System upgrade for performance and reliability. Can't wait to drive it... DSI does some clean work.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
- 3 followers
- 16 replies
- 5.6k views
I know its been covered in the past, I did a search and found an old thread, but what the heck here is what I found. Mine would go well be low E and still have 4.5 gallons in the tank, and the low fuel light would not come on until I was about 2 gallons left IIRC from prior testing. 1st you can remove the sender without dropping the tank, just remove the one holding strap on the filler side (undo the j hook and let it hang out of the way. Remove the filler neck guard plate, then twist the retaining ring, remove and then fiddle the sender out. No need to jack or remove tire (removing tire makes it a bit easier but not needed). 1st I check the ohm range …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 9 followers
- 23 replies
- 7.8k views
So I have been working on this for a while. For reference I have a series 1 with dealer installed AC. It’s a giant York compressor shoved above the smog pump. It was in the way of everything. So hard to work around. I decided it had to go. Most of the sanden ac brackets are steel and don’t use an idler. I really like the idea of an idler to tension. I also love the 280zx aluminum ac bracket. My original plan was a 280zx compressor. But they are pretty speedy. So I ditched the whole idea and started the concept to adapt a sanden ac compressor with a v pulley. I had a buddy fabricate some new brackets and boom. Everything lines up. I vapor blas…
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 693 views
I have a 5xxx VIN series 1 that I am trying to bring back to life. All NOS door strikes I have seen on ebay et al are bright white. I am absolutely certain mine were yellow zinc along with the bolts that fastened them to the car. Has anyone else seen that on an early car?
Last reply by jfa.series1,
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