Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,797 topics in this forum
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So I have been working on this for a while. For reference I have a series 1 with dealer installed AC. It’s a giant York compressor shoved above the smog pump. It was in the way of everything. So hard to work around. I decided it had to go. Most of the sanden ac brackets are steel and don’t use an idler. I really like the idea of an idler to tension. I also love the 280zx aluminum ac bracket. My original plan was a 280zx compressor. But they are pretty speedy. So I ditched the whole idea and started the concept to adapt a sanden ac compressor with a v pulley. I had a buddy fabricate some new brackets and boom. Everything lines up. I vapor blas…
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
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I have a 5xxx VIN series 1 that I am trying to bring back to life. All NOS door strikes I have seen on ebay et al are bright white. I am absolutely certain mine were yellow zinc along with the bolts that fastened them to the car. Has anyone else seen that on an early car?
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I recently found zbarn.com website. Supposely they have 400 parts cars. Has anyone ever talked to them? I emailed them and called them, and no response. Just wondering....I thought it was too good to be true. Maybe they went out of business in 1999 but somone forgot to tell everyone.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Greetings all, I am replacing the hard fuel and brake lines front to back on my '73 Z for two reasons: They don't look as good as everything else which has been recently re-plated, and the flare nuts have all seen better days. All the hardware, brackets and so forth have been re-plated with clear silver zinc instead of finishing up with the gold zinc step. I like it because the car is blue and I have a blue and silver motif going on. I'd like to go with stainless steel hard brake and fuel lines all around for the looks number one, and two, corrosion resistance long term. Classictube.com who has been around many years makes hard lines either way--stainless or OEM…
Last reply by rdefabri, -
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Hello all, I just recently picked up a 240z from Texas that I have been eyeing for about 5 years. Not much info on the car, it appears to be a 72' based on the carbs and headlight buckets, but the vin # seems high for that year, 149747. It has the usual rust problems although not that bad. The battery tray just started to rust through. The passenger side floor board is rotted due to a heater core leak? The driver side looks intact. There isn't a straight panel on the car, but I am looking forward to working on it.
Last reply by wrecked2001, -
- 6 followers
- 11 replies
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Clicked on to the Fast n' Loud show and some guy called Big Mike, from the "tuner" world, is apparently their 280Z build expert. Pretty sure I remember a 2+2 from a short while ago, I might have even posted a link. Can't remember. 1975 280Z. Anyway, weird that they chose a 75 280Z instead of a 240Z. They're playing up the whole SAE versus metric, USA versus foreign, thread pattern BS even though modern domestics engines are all metric. I'm sure that all of those LSX engines are metric. Sad. Have to see if they do more than just drive the car around the block.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
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Makes the bump bump bump going up but no down action (motor runs but no movement on antenna). Can push down while manually while operating switch. I presume a break in the plastic line? if so is this something fixable?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
Bumper rams
by ensys- 4 replies
- 964 views
All: I am working to straighten out the effects of a long-ago rear-ender, and the issue comes down to the "before" configuration of the rear bumper rams on a '77 280Z (see fotos) . I think that the right (passenger) side ram bracket is the least deformed, and therefore is the closest model of original configuration, but it would help a great deal to have an unmolested unit on which to base remedial actions. So, can anyone out there offer a comparable shot of a pristine rear bumper ram to provide a model for restorative action? This would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Anyone know who's car this is? It's being used for a craigslist scam.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 533 views
Or how to wear out the insides of your tires really fast. http://www.speedhunters.com/tag/wekfest-japan-2018/
Last reply by gundee, -
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- 7 replies
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Finishing my 1970 240z S/N #509 project. I need to find the "plastic" inspection panels clips. Are they available or maybe someone has a couple from a parts car. I have a 280z dash with gauges for sale. Excellent condition but I don't know if the gauges work. Also for sale the rear window louvers, door panels, seat covers, carpeting, headliner and taillight set. This is all original used stuff, "driver" condition. I like to see it go to someone that could use it instead of throwing it all out. Also a new dash cover, not the full cover . What is the part that is under the washer reservoir toward the firewall, between the clutch cylinder and fender? …
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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I recently pulled the fuel tank out of my 1975 280Z to have it cleaned and so I could work on reducing the smell of gas in the cabin. I'd love to replace the 17mm (5/8") vent hose that connects from the tank to the vapor reservoir and the 17mm hose that connects the filler to the vapor reservoir, but I can't seem to find these parts. I question whether or not the existing hoses are presenting much of a barrier to gas vapors. Anyway, I was thinking about replacing them with 5/8" fuel hose; however, the hose wants to kink when bent in a fashion similar to the old hoses. Is there still a source for replacement hoses, or a good solution to using the hoses that are readily…
Last reply by SoCalJim,
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