Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
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I've got a couple days in the Orlando, FL area next week. Anybody got suggestions of things that I simply have to do while I'm there? Anything Z related in the area?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I've dropped the transverse link and strut assembly out of my '72 240Z to change the bushings and stuts/shocks. I also have the differential supported at the front and the cross member out. While I was at it I thought I'd change the differntial insulator. There's no way I can get a socket on the bolts due to teh design of the insulator and its almost impossible to get a 17mm wrench on it. I could grind away some metal to get a socket on the insluator bolts but that doesn't help me with getting the new one on. Has anyone removed one without dropping the differential? Any tips or tricks would be great. Thanks, Steve
Last reply by sdyck, -
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Happy New Year, CZCC, I hope that I am not about to open Pandora's Box with this thread, but here we go anyway:) I'd like to get everyone's input/thoughts/recommendations on S30 parts that are no longer available that might generate sufficient demand to explore having them reproduced. As many of you know, I am currently doing restorative services (mostly chrome plating) through a facility in Southeast Asia. This month, my partner will be going overseas to begin an exploratory mission to source factories that may be able to reproduce parts at an affordable cost. Obviously, we won't be able to source prospects for the full spectrum of NLA parts, so we are most interested i…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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Would you accept this zinc chromate plating? Maybe i m\isunderstood what this service is. Are you just paying for the plating or plating + metal finishing? I had these professionally plated and they came back looking like this. As you can see there are very obvious grinder marks that show thru. At the very least a DA sander would have improved the look of this.
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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I've looked in various places, done searches, all that stuff. The FSM is surprisingly vague about the ignition timing adjustment procedure. The car is a stock 76 280z, so it has the vacuum canister on the side of the distributor that has a "T" connection also. I just want to set my timing. Auto Trans. I know you want the engine warm, verified correct idle (700 rpm for auto in D, 900 for manual). After the engine is warm, do I unplug and cap the vacuum hose from the distributor, (assume cap the canister AND the hose...) and then it the timing should be 7 degrees BTDC? Or is the vacuum hose supposed to be connected to the distributor w…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Just got my bumper pieces back from chroming and wow they look great. New rubber also. I paid $650.00 to have it done. Not sure if its a good or bad price but maybe it can be a reference for anyone else thinking about it. it was local plating company and they have good references. I'll have to wait until this winter to shell out for the front.
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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is there supposed to be some sort of cap on the differential vent? thanks all sb
Last reply by zKars, -
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I picked a used evap/expansion chamber from a junk yard. The system had been open for a while as there was rust on the hi pressure switch, and junk in the expansion valve inlet. I removed the valve from its body, and flushed the evap with cleaner. This is the setup that has 3 separate cooling coils, all feed from the evap valve body (3 small and 3 large tubes). Anyway in my zeal to clean the rust out I removed the brass fitting inside the inlet of the valve, got the spring out (covered in rust) soaked it in evap o rust. cleaned the area around where the spring rest with some q tips. Not sure how much more it can be disassembled to get access what I presume is a needle…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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wanted to share this.
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Why, why, why? $60+ for a simple OEM gas cap for a 1972 240Z! My after market locking one is 10 years old & really hard to open now. Can't seem to find another locking one at all. Any source for the locking type now? Photo is what I have now with locking mechanism sticking to where I’m worried the key will break.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I recently got 2 z cars and I'm looking for some acurate values on both to help me decide which will hold more value after being fully restored. Car 1 is an all original 71 240z (minus the added body kit) low rust and complete car. It has bad paint and surface rust. Factory a.c. and factory automatic. Car 2 is a 73 240z all original(minus a new head and 4barrel carb swap) absolutely 0 rust. Missing a few small things like the original mirrors, rims and carpet. I can't load any pics but both cars have already begun to get the body work cherried out and mechanical is next. I'm really just not sure what kind of value the 71 Will have due to being the auto…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Hello, I am getting ready to install a set of SU's on my car. All the stuff I read about making adjustments by turning X-Number of "Flats" has me asking this. I don't have an adjustment knob with "Flats", I have a knurled adjustment knob with a little bump on it which I believe is to help identify the number of turns you've made. I have no problem turning it and counting etc, but I would like to know why mine is like this. It is on a set of 4 screws. I searched with terms like "SU" + "Flats", if anyone can point me to a thread I will happily read it, I couldn't bring it up. Thank you, -Brian
Last reply by mehas240z,
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