Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,797 topics in this forum
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- 15 replies
- 5.2k views
I went and looked at 2 1978 280z's this afternoon. Forgot my camera so no pics. The 1st car hasn't run since 2008. Has a large rust hole in the rear hatch sill, some rust thru on the passenger side fender in the engine bay. That's all I could see. Dash is cracked, seats need upholstery, interior parts are there and in fair condition. Engine is complete. I'm looking at this as a parts car only and is worth around $500. The 2nd car has lots of new parts, including a perfect dash, good seats, aftermarket radio, new radiator, new hoses, new AFM boots. Owner claims that the car has 50k. The problem is that it took a hit on the passenger side door, crushing the rocke…
Last reply by grantf, -
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- 7 replies
- 3.7k views
Should I purchase a Gear reduction Starter? I just recently bought a new Patronix flamethrower coil and and electronic conversion kit for my hitatchi(sp) distributor in efforts to make starting my 72 240 a more reliable process. I found a gear reduction starter on ebay that has been refurbished and claims to be able to help with cold starts. If this is so then I would be more than happy to buy and replace it for my stock starter that constantly gives me problems. Will this disrupt anything else within in the engine or cause me to have to make any further modification? Can I get two cents from any one willing to offer some advice.
Last reply by darom, -
- 7 replies
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Hello anybody around working on a Z around OC, hope I am no alone
Last reply by black gold man, -
- 24 replies
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In my recent quest for an early rust free shell for a possible project I am considering I came across a 1972 Survivor which reportedly has only 5,400 Miles. Completely rust free and original, VIN#HLS30-57877. It is for sale for $30,000.00. Contact: jasonwhitney78@gmail.com I have no association with this person and can not verify the information but if interested you can confirm the information. Like I said I ran across this car by accident and it does not fit what I am looking for. JLP
Last reply by John Coffey, -
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Like the title says.... I'm moving there at the end of January, Going to be in northern Charlotte (Huntersville), towing my car out tonight. Looking to make some new friends that have a love for Z's and cars in general. P.S. I'm young 28, tall dark and handsome, with blue eyes and ripped muscles... P.S.S. to avoid any confusion im also straight but taken
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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I have been lurking around here for a little while reading up on many different topics. Finally got my car washed and figured I would introduce my self and my car. I have a 1971 240z, mostly original from what I can tell. I have had the car a few months now and have finally started doing some stuff to it. Had a twice pipe system installed with just two small glasspacks in the rear of the car. It's a little too loud so I will be getting a second set installed in the middle of the car to quiet it down just a bit. Aside from that I have just been doing some maintance things that need to be done. I will have some videos up some of the exterior and interior of the car soon. T…
Last reply by 383chevelle, -
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Started last May on the "minor" () refresh of my 75 280, now it seems that everything I put back in that was fine last May, now doesn't work, i.e. clutch master won't pump fluid when connected, engine won't start, more electrical gremlins than I care to think about, brake booster making whooshing noise and can't bleed the brakes, moaning/clicking noise from the steering rack after new bushings, tie rod ends and ball joints. I'm getting close to the end of my rope, but can't quit because I have to much time, money, blood and sweat into this thing! The best thing to happen so far is I learned how to weld(sorta), prep paint(kinda OK) and polish, and got some valuable educati…
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 9 replies
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In the process of planning direction of restoring 2 1971 240Z, I am looking at the wiring system of the cars. Although the wire harnesses appear to be in good shape, it seems that that originally there was a capicity issues (ie headlight relay upgrades etc.). The ISIS system is comparmentized, you have a main power block, which would then control the power to two additional power blocks such as one in the engine compartment and the one to handle the rear harness section. Personally, I think this would upgrade the car(s) significantly and make the electrical system more reliable? Appreciate everyone's thought of going this route! newtonhubcap
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 27 replies
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Had a stock 72 Z with 68k miles that I thoroughly enjoyed but moved on to other sport cars. Wanting to get back into the Z world that I miss, but unsure about a modified version. The car is the blue 71 with a 3.1 stroker (Rebello) advertised in the ad section by jackboxxx. Anyone familiar with the car? My conversations with the owner have been very positive and reassuring thus far, but with my limited technical knowledge on "built" motors and reliability (this one appears to be well-maintained and not excessively "massaged". i.e. no track/drag days), I want to get some input from the community. I do not intend to track the car myself, but do want the extra performance …
Last reply by gaZdoc, -
- 10 replies
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am almost done getting the title sorted out and in my name for the 1977 280z with 41K that i got one year ago. the last hurdle is the smog test in So Cal. anyone out there have any advice on obvious things to be aware of and look into to be fully prepared? thanks for your help,
Last reply by Z train, -
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- 4.9k views
What would my best option be for my flow guide valve. Currently I have the tank line coming into it, the air cleaner line going to the back of the air cleaner box, and the crankcase tube just blocked off. Crankcase tube blocked because I have no nipple for it on this blocks vent outlet. My understanding is the 240 blocks have a smaller nipple coming off of the same vent that goes up to the pcv valve. Should I run the crankcase outlet up to the intake manifold? My thoughts on this is wouldnt this be pretty much exactly the same as running it to the crankcase vent that goes up to the manifold anyhow. Could I just scrap the flow guide valve and run the inlet from tank …
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 3 replies
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I rebuilt the clutch master and the operating cylinder. The master won't pump fluid thru, but if I take off the connecting rod and push the pump with a screwdriver it pumps, with the connecting rod in place, nothing? Weird, got me puzzled, any clues?
Last reply by mjr45,
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