Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,795 topics in this forum
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Hey Everybody, The Vintage Dash is going in. I wanted to wait till this winter to do it, but I started having some electrical troubles. It seems better to do everything at once and be done with it. My right front blinker is out, so the switches on the stalk are getting rebuilt. My fuse box got hot on the parking circuit. I got an MSA fusebox and updated parking and headlight harnesses. I am going to clean and inspect all the wiring and clean the light connections. First I need to get the dash out. I am everything under the dash disconnected. It is ready to except..... the glove box liner. This is my first Z. I was surprised to see how cheap it was. The glove box…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I was working on the comboi light switch from VIN #1818, 02/70, and noted a couple of weak design issues that were later eliminated. The first is the method of indexing the main plastic barrel to the frame with a small tab on the barrel that fits into a small recess on the frame. The plastic tab was long gone on this car and the PO had substituted a tiny piece of wire and a cut off straight pin, both jammed into the plastic to provide the index. I located suitable donor material in the form of a long dead BIC lighter, cut a piece from the body and notched the barrel to receive the transplant. The transplant was glued into place and then tr…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Anybody have any idea where I might find a radio bracket?
Last reply by zKars, -
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NGK BP6ES-11 plugs are no longer available? I guess I’ve fallen behind the times . Nine months ago I replace my 75 280 NGK BP6ES plugs and no problems finding them. I just tried to purchase new plugs at my local parts store and all they have is the resistor version. My research indicates that NGK is no longer making this plug? Has anyone used these in the 240/280 without problems?
Last reply by Tweeds, -
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I am restoring a 72 240 and I want to rebuild the steering rack.. Boots are torn, grease and gunk all over it, play, etc. I noticed I can get a rebuilt rack from a big box store for about $550. Seal kit plus tie rods looks to be around 450 to 500 and I would have to rebuild it. Wondering if anyone has had any experience with a Cardone rebuilt rack? I would check it to make sure it is the same ratio. Thanks.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Is there a book or online ref that shows every single part and placement on the car?
Last reply by Spyce, -
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- 475 views
Does anyone sell the front engine frame rails individually
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 3 followers
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- 453 views
Does anyone make the engine compartment liners that close off the frame rails?
Last reply by ennisdavis, -
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Ate a 3 holes required in the inner jamb. I know the lower hole has wiring
Last reply by ennisdavis, -
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Saw this clip and thought it’s really cool
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Hello, I think we always love to talk about build date of the Zcar,Alan T. and 26th-Z,I think we talked about this before,please everyone join here everyone. I hope this thread will help me/someone develop my/his idea and imagine when ROUGHLY my/his Zcar was born. Ok,let's start listing of my 240Z's "date" which I found so far. "21020" speedometer back face,I think "21st Feb 1970" "70 02" a tag on a harness infront of a radiator,near dual horns,"Feb 1970" "12 1969" Seat belt tags "03/70" plate above a driver's door striker So,the plate above a driver's door striker shows reasonable date.I think I can say door striker's date should not be earlier than these …
Last reply by kats, -
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Hey, I have a 1973 240z and I have what I believe is the original key. I wanted to get a replacement made and the code on the key is just a 4 digit number (5XXX) with no prefix. I thought the keys generally had a prefix for the type of cut? The key does work on everything (ignition, both doors, glove box, and trunk) I took a look and there is no glove box code sticker. I attached a picture of the key (with a repro blank I was hoping to use) to show the style (and edited it a bit to remove the last 3 code digits and some of the key length) Any idea what might be up? The key is super worn so I was hoping to avoid having a duplicate made directly from the key
Last reply by hotsho111,
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