Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,796 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
HLS30-91xx. Looked at it yesterday, wrote serial # on my hand, washed hand.... Was at work, should have taken pictures.... Anyway, it is RUSTY!!! BUT.........It is a very complete, original car!! Interior is okay. Clock works!!! Emblems are good, dash has one or two cracks. It runs!! (Don;t know if I would want to drive it as is, but it does run!!) I am debating picking it up and parting it out, but thought I might throw this out there if there was anyone that wants the whole car. The gentleman is asking $800.00. I should mention that it is VERY RUSTY!! When the guy that is selling it went to sit in it and start it, the seat came through the floor!! The rear hatc…
Last reply by astrohog, -
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- 39 replies
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This weekend on Sunday, we made an appointment to drop my car to get painted, finally! I'm so stoked and excited as I've been waiting for this for years now. It's going to be in the shop for about two to three weeks depending on how soon he can work on it. Any way, I thought it might be interesting to get your opinions on the whether or not you guys like the rear panels on these cars painted the color of the car or left black as they were when they left the factory? I used to lean torwards having it painted the color of the car, but now I think I'll probably just have it painted black again. I have a few more days to think about it, but that's what I'm leaning torwards a…
Last reply by psdenno, -
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Decided a little sounding board on how people feel about common Z mods might be interesting What does everyone think looks best? Select all that apply... The one that taxes me most is the G-nose, which from some angles looks great and from others makes the car look like a Kiwi (bird), with an excessively long nose. And occasionally the bumper not being chrome really bugs me, but it bugs me a lot less if the car has black, bolt on flares as a G would have... Also I've noticed that on cars with a G nose, there's always an excessive gap between the hood and the kit... Though I'm sure the G nose is great for aerodynamics... Maybe people should post pics and convince me to l…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have a lead on a 1970 240Z. I was told that it was a "special" car that was one of many on a ship coming from the factory that sustained some damage due to a storm and seawater contaminatiing the cars. Supposedly the damaged cars were sold to a gentleman who was supposed to part them out. The story continues that he didn't part them, rather he sold them. Sounds like a fish story to me to justify the rust?? I will be looking at this car and getting the vin, so I will post info when I have more!! If anyone can substantiate this story or fill in the blanks, etc. , please feel free to do so!! Regards, Astrohog
Last reply by cunniwj, -
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Anyone else notice that the camshaft sprocket bolt torque in the 'How to Modify" book by Frank Honsoweltz on page 86 is 100-108 ft.lbs. and the torque given in the factory manual is 43 ft. lbs.? Which is it? Also......has anyone had any problem with the crank sprocket provided with the Motorsport Japanese timing chain kit. The key slot is too loose allowing the sprocket to rock back and forth?
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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I've come to the conclusion that my Z is slowly dieing and welding isn't going to save it, plus i don't have the money or skill to REALLY do a restore on it. So im just going to drive it till it falls apart, im going to search for an arizona/nevada/florida etc. Z when I have money saved and just use what I've learned from this forum and my current Z to make it respectable. I'll post pics of my rust but its really bad i think beyond saving (the previous owner did a good job of hiding it) and i've seen stuff on other cars while searching. I really like the car but the rust is out of control but at least now I know where to look whenever I get ready for a replacement. I wou…
Last reply by Zak's Z, -
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Howdy, Its been a while since I've posted so I'm here to update the project. :classic: The car is completely tore down. The parts from MSA are comming in. MSA is great. I wanted to post pictures, but I dont know how. Anyhow, This car is better than I expected structurally. It has never taken any damage to the shell. There is only surface rust, if any, from the seats back. The foorboards have to be replaced. I'm shocked. The engine and head are good. I have a bet with my boss that it will be done by August 15. I think he is going to buy me a steak dinner. AggieZ p.s. As much work as it has been so far, I've enjoyed every minute of it!
Last reply by a7dz, -
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Hello, I'm new to this forum. I just bought a 72 240Z from the original owner. It is all original also, all the way down to the radio and steel wheels. He could not find the hub caps. On to the question... Is there a OEM replacement rear hatch strut or a decent after market? Thanks for the assist. Rod
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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I know this car was briefly discussed in a different thread, but I thought it deserved one of its own. Sold for $19,000, and worth every penny, IMO. Low miles and all original, offered by a seller who knows 240Zs. How could you go wrong? eBay auction link I wonder if the buyer is anyone we know?
Last reply by full house, -
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I dipped into MSA for a few items for my interior, namely a new steering wheel and dash cover for my '77 280z. The Grant wheel went on without a hitch, once I figured out I needed to bend up the horn contact a little. The dash cover was a different story. I read posts on here from 2 years ago about ill-fitting full covers. I had a 1/2 cover on before and thought a full one would look nicer. Since I had to destroy the 1/2 cover to remove the speedo and tach, it gave me an excuse to get a new one. I figured that in the past couple years, MAYBE MSA talked to their supplier about fitment. Looks like I was wrong. The same proplems I read about are still there, namely b…
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
- 7 replies
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Got a quick question for the rust experts..... I have found a very straight 1973 240Z with no rust issues except at the battery tray area. When you pull the battery out there is basically a big hole that allows you to look right at the right front fender. The firewall looks fine, but that huge hole has me worried. Is that an expensive fix? Is it structural in any way or was that just some light sheet metal thats now gone. I would post a picture but I didn't have my camera. If you can just imagine standing in front of the car and looking to the left of the battery and seeing a huge cantelope size hole, thats where the problem is. Thanks for any input.
Last reply by mally002, -
- 14 replies
- 3.9k views
I am looking to pick up a replacement diff from one of these two parts websites. I have talked to both and they both seem knowledgeable and very nice. Does anybody have any experience with buying from these two vendors.
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi,
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