Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
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I did a bunch of searches but I am still unsure how to test the system properly. My fuel gauge is not moving. It had previously worked. So I have a few questions: 1- How can I test the gauge on the bench to make sure it is not an issue with gauge itself? 3-When the wires are disconnected from the fuel sender is there a way to test and see if the gauge moves? 2-Anything else I should know? I attached the two pictures, the wires at the sender and the gauge Thanks in advance for your help.
Last reply by gotham22, -
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I have an issue where I can not get my low beams to work. When I turn the switch to the little dot the parking lights come on. When I turn the switch to the big dot then nothing happens. With the switch in this mode if I turn on the high beams they work. High beams off, no lights. I do not know where/how to start troubleshooting.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 375 views
Guys, i am hitting another issue. The ZCarDepot do not have the retainer for the hatch lock cylinder. It is a bit thicker than the door ones. Is there some other source or alternate product? They do have a 240z door lock retainer which seems a bit thicker but I have not tried it. Appreciate some help ...
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
- 315 views
Guys, What is the feedback and fit for this product on the 77 280z. Would really appreciate? https://vintagedashes.com/products/datsun-280z-reproduction-dash Also delivery and order placement ...
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 395 views
I have noticed that the front end gets flighty when I'm up around 80 +, depending somewhat on the roadway, but definitely a touch hair-raising. Original air guides/ valance are present behind Xenon spoiler. I have new Eibach lowering springs, all new struts, all new suspension bushings (all poly except the rear caster rod bushings),, etc., front and rear. Wheels are 15" W/ Hena Forceum tires (forgot profile, I'll edit later) Anyone have similar experience?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 5 followers
- 9 replies
- 394 views
Recently, while disassembling a early 240z door, and noticed a tab welded on the bottom of the interior door, near the handle but inside the door, a Metal, plastic flexible tab that is used throughout our cars to maintain wiring. I”ve looked at vin 740, and 800 something, and tab is not present. Curious to those with one of the “first 550 cars in 69” who happen to have their door panel off to peak in and see if same tab is there…. Assuming it was for holding the aborted door light wiring? If this has previously been discussed in past 30 years please direct me to the conversation…. How far down the production line was this present? Picture attached
Last reply by dspillman, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 214 views
Guys, there is a metal rod under neath that connects the transmission lever to a metal bracket attached to the inhibitor switch. There is a play in my AUTO trans lever and when I checked underneath the place where the rod connected to the inhibitor switch bracket has some sort of washer that is missing. Any idea how to secure it tightly so that it wont wiggle? the play is due to this wiggle.
Last reply by Terrapin Z, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 178 views
Hey...Does anyone have pictures of how the closure panel that covers the gas tank filler neck, etc. fastens to the inner fender...? Any tips on the procedure...? I assume it's not rocket science, but the original holes for the screws got welded up and I just want mine put back in the right place. Thanks...Ryals
Last reply by Tirnipgreen, -
- 3 followers
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Well, sorry to dominate all the recent forum activity, but I’m really trying to get this thing done! I’ve got an electrical problem somewhere. I’ve read what feels like 100 posts regarding the turn signals. I’ve studied the following links heavily and still can’t seem to figure it out: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16435-72-240z-brake-light-wiring/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2013/01/20/hazard-switch-brake-light-turn-signal-circuit-analysis/ THE PROBLEM: I have no brake lights or front/rear turn signals HERE’S WHAT DOES WORK: Hazards (front and rear), Headlights & Tail lights, Reverse Lights, Brake light switch, all fuses are good, al…
Last reply by emccallum, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 565 views
Fresh from winters hibernation, took Z out for a short ride. Hit a mile stone of 70,000 miles. All good until I returned home and found my recently cleaned motor had oil sprayed on passenger side of motor and firewall. Found the pump decided to blow oil out of the weep hole. Over the winter I bought a new Nikki fuel pump, rebuilt the top half of the original pump. The bottom part containing the rubber shaft seal appeared to be fine so it wasn’t changed. Cleaned up the mess then removed and disassembled pump, sure enough the seal was torn.. Luckily I saved the remains of the donor fuel pump, swapped out the seal and reassembled, hopefully it last another 54 years.
Last reply by bluez, -
- 4 followers
- 8 replies
- 347 views
Anyone have a good suggestion to what after market cruise control to install? So many on the market. My first concern would be not so intrusive on the dash.
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
- 9 followers
- 41 replies
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Putting my "72" back together after a very long slumber and need 3 screws/bolts. 1 - Headlight bucket screw M5 x 0.8 x 15mm of thread length 2 - Arm Rest M6 x 1.0 x 20mm of thread (back of bolt head to end of thread not including locating nub at end) with lock washer 3 - Grab handle M6 x 1.0 x 15mm of thread with lock and captive washers The grab handle and arm rest bolts are philips with a hex head. Any help with these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
Last reply by Terrapin Z,
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