Open Discussions
Open discussions about the early S30 series issues and topics.
8,795 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Here is the link that I started it at, Hope anyone here can me help this guy out with his Z http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000583
Last reply by Shiin, -
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- 1 reply
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I have a '73 240z and was wondering if 240 and 280 locking gas caps are interchangeable? The locking gas cap i have now won't unlock anymore. Thanks
Last reply by redneck240z1, -
1978 280z Black
by Guest Noy- 2 replies
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Hey I saw a black 78' 240z for sale for 2300.00...is this a good deal? What should I look for?
Last reply by stock-z, -
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I just picked up a brake master cylinder that looks like its made for a '72. The only difference I can tell is the location of the resevoir bottles. The seem to be opposite from each other. Does anyone know weather or not I can use this on my '70z. Mark
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 9 replies
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Hello all! A friend of mine has asked me to help her sell her mother's '71 240z but I have no idea how to price it. A quick scan on collectorcartraderonline.com shows a price range from $1,700 to $12,900-needless to say quite a range! This is an original car, literally driven by what is now a little old lady. It has around 106k miles and has been repainted once, probably in the late 80s. Any advice, suggestions, ideas how to fairly price this vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help. David in Seattle
Last reply by heppanic, -
- 0 replies
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I have a set of 4 screw and 3 screw, in reference to the Dome, SU Carbs. I prefer the 4 screw due to the ease of float access. The three screw has a nipple that makes it very difficult to remove the float safely without taking the carburetor apart. Other than that, they seem to be duplicates. I'm not sure if I should keep the 3 screw set. I can't see a time when I would them. Anyone interested?
Last reply by morfirst, -
I am tearing down a 4 screw SU carb. There is a disc/bolt on the bottom of the carb that appears to screw into the bolt housing that attaches the carb float housing to the main body. I don't understand the purpose of this except to seal the hole on the bottom of the main housing. Anyone care to enlighten me?
Last reply by Daniel, -
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Hi gang- I've got a question regarding side underskirt attachments. My car has aluminum rocket panels attached to it that I would like to remove. I don't want to repaint the vehicle as the paint is in great shape (for 30yrs) but I would like to remove the potential for rust behind the aluminum panels. Does anyone know if the urethane side skirts come as high up on the rocker panel as the aluminum ones I have? If so, are these skirts water tight or am I trading one type of water catch for another? My car is listed in the members rides section if your curious as too what I'm talking about. Thanks for the feedback.
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 0 replies
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This was posted to our mailing list by Doug Antleman, I've done a fair amount of towing, so I will throw in my 2 cents. The advantage of an open car trailer is less weight and less wind resistance compared to a higher profile closed trailer. Weight is a major consideration, since you will be pulling with a V-6, which I doubt is rated much over 4,000 lb tow capacity. Some things to consider, any trailer that is more than 2,000 lb loaded should ALWAYS have electric brakes. A double axle trailer is better than single because the weight will be distributed over a larger area and it will track better (less sway) on the freeway. As far as tow vehicles go, a conversion van wi…
Last reply by Mike, -
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I have a Monza exhaust header for a 1972 240Z. Unfortunately, I don't have the exhaust pipe adapter that converts the two 2" O.D. header outlets into one 2.5" exhaust pipe connection. Does anyone know where I could find one? Victoria British does not sell this item as a separate part and MSA states that they sell a different header.
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 4 replies
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I had a problem with my temp/oil pressure gauges.Both would go to normal position then in exact time both would drift down then back up.I had fought that demon before on my fuel gauge a while back and knew it was the tiny tiny little contact in the gauge.Glove box out,clock out, I could reach in and remove the yoke screw.With my hand relaxed like a yoga master I gently slipped it into the temp/oil hole in the dash and undid the wires.There is plenty of room in the back of the dash to slide the gauge to the glove box.I'm 6'3" 200lbs. and have large hands so don't think I have small japanese hands.I disassembled the gauge cleaned the contact with a burnishing tool(ultra fin…
Last reply by Daniel, -
- 10 replies
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Well I was trying to find a leak (from inside engine compartment to passenger pan), while i was looking I found a pen sized rust hole behind my battery near the wheel well. I know people who can weld (cheaply) but I am notsure how to proceed. One of the first things I would like to do is pull the engine (for working room and might as well rust proof and paint it now), i am a newbie when it comes to mechanics, are there detailed instructions anywhere that I can follow to pull an engine? Once that is done any suggestions to attack my damage? I am bummed!! The rest of the battery tray looks fine. Suggestions?????? Thanks, Zlish:tapemouth :tapemouth :tapemouth
Last reply by 2ManyZs,
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