Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,101 topics in this forum
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Does anyone have a good picture of the rear driver side of a 240Z engine showing how the rear engine sling and water bypass are mounted? I've searched all over the internet and the closest I could find was something Arne posted in 2009...it just did not quite show what I'm after. I believe both of these go on the rear most intake/exhaust bolt/stud though I'm not sure which order they install in. I am thinking that the water bypass is first and the engine sling is second. Please help me verify.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hello, I am finishing up a build of a 1976 280z. I am installing the window glass currently. I have finished the driver's side and it went well. I am now working on the passenger side and am having a slight issue in getting the fitment perfect. All tracks and rollers were removed, cleaned and freshly lubricated. Brand new felt in the tracks The passenger glass is slightly tilted towards the front. When I roll the window all the way up, it does get forced into the felt channel so I think it's sealed, but the driver's side was much better alignment than the passenger side. As per the manual, I adjusted the front roller track all the way down and…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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So my 12/70 Z is giving me some issues (stock ignition). I haven’t started it for several weeks, (ran fine back in August) tried last week and no go. Car started and was cutting on/off, tach was jumping all over the place. After a few minutes it wouldn’t start. Removed dist cap had spark at points, pulled plug #1 initially saw spark, then nothing. Removed coil and found oil on primary wire and coil. Coil looked to be original, so I ordered a new one as well as a new ballast resistor, still no go. Today, I picked up a new condenser, checked for spark at the plug, all good, installed plug and tried to start it, it fired for a second then nothing, pulled plug found no spark…
Last reply by Zpenman, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 357 views
I am putting the glass back in my 1976 280z after a restoration. I have the front and rear windshields installed and now I am starting with the driver's glass. I am able to get the glass inside the door and all the guides installed with the wheels in the channels. The 2 glass door bumpers are also installed. The glass seems to roll up and down reasonably. I do not have the window frame installed yet. Where I am getting hung up is that when I roll the window all the way down so the bottom of the door glass frame touches the rubber bumper at the bottom of the door and then start to roll back up, the rearward roller jumps out of the back of the track that is …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 6 replies
- 412 views
Is the hatch glass much harder to install than the windshield? I am finishing up a 1976 280z build and am installing the glass. I have brand new gaskets from vintage rubber. The front windshield was a bit off a pain but got it on the first try. The hatch glass is seeming much more difficult. The hatch is off the car and I thought it would be easier to install off the car rather than on the car. I am using the same rope method. With the front windshield, I was able to slide the glass/gasket into the lower pinch weld and then use the rope to pull the gasket around the pinch weld and use hand pressure to walk it around the sides. With the hatch glass, I can…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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- 4 replies
- 302 views
Hello, I am finishing up my build of a 1976 280z. I got this as a roller and have never owned a Zcar before. I have just installed the doors back on the car and thoroughly cleaned and lubed both door mechanisms. I initially had an issue getting the door to latch but got that straightened out with new striker plates. My next question is on locking the doors. I can't get them to lock. I have pushed on the door lock rod to no avail. My understanding is that the door needs to be shut in order to lock. I have tried both doors and can't get it. I've tried with the door closed, open, manually turning the latch all the way by hand, everything. I don't have the …
Last reply by fusion, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
- 728 views
My 73 original engine that was torn down and re-built. It has been driven 800 miles since the re-built. I noticed soon after getting it back on the road that the oil pan gasket was leaking slowly. I decided to replace it today and discovered metal shavings in the bottom of the oil pan. The attached (no magnification)picture shows the shavings that I captured in a piece of foam filter material. Most of the shavings I picked off the bottom of the pan and placed on the filtering material. I checked the savings with a magnet and they are non-ferrous metal shavings. I am hoping that this forum has a motor rebuilder who can advise me on what my next steps should be. …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 447 views
I am finishing up a very long total rebuild of a 1976 280z. I have hung the doors back on the body and am putting the door hardware back in. The latch mechanisms came with the car and appeared to work well, although I got the car as a roller and really didn't open and close the doors much before the complete teardown. I thoroughly cleaned the mechanism, fully oiled every joint and reinstalled. All door hinges totally rebuilt. The striker plate that came with the car had a broken spring so I purchased aftermarket strikers from Zcardepot. I mounted the striker and spacer plate to the body. I have no weatherstripping on the car yet. Door locks not inst…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 377 views
Can anyone recommend a product that would be a reliable, long-term solution for sealing a cracked gas filler neck? The vehicle in question is my friend's 10-year-old Hyundai Elantra.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 401 views
It is sooooo close. When the car is cold, it will fire and purr for about a second or two. After that one time, it won't start again. It will get close, but it puffs whiteish smoke out of the carbs every few revolutions. I can come back the next day and it will fire up and purr again (once). Any ideas what could be causing that? Stuff I've checked: Spark - the fact that it runs so smoothly for that second or so makes me think it has a fine spark. This had been the most previous issue and I redid the distributor (new cap, rotor, and condenser). Fuel - Both SU carbs have fuel in the float chamber. I spun the bolt off the bottom of both and the…
Last reply by bluez, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 387 views
I have installed a wide ratio 5-speed transmission from a 1977-1979 280Z into my 1970 240Z and want to verify which gear shift I should be using. I'm thinking it is 4, 5, 6, or 7.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 5 followers
- 23 replies
- 913 views
Ok, so I have a 240Z that I have put an L28 in and just getting to installing the radiator. This is the stock radiator that I had cleaned up so it came out of the car. I managed to get it in and noticed that the fan was up against the radiator. I'm using the later model plastic blade fan. I'm not sure what may be the issue. I have replace the fan clutch, could that be the problem, is it too long? Any thoughts, input, experience on this would be helpful. If you need pix I can take some.
Last reply by Terrapin Z,
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