Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
20220730_210302.mp4 Back at again. Listen to the cranking of the engine and advise me of what's missing to keep it from starting. Also, at the start of video you will hear knocking from the engine, if you know where that come from or caused by will help. The plugs are firing and the firing order is correct. All other electrical compontents check out. Thanks
Last reply by James Que, -
-
- 4 followers
- 21 replies
- 1.6k views
Hey all: We have our 260Z idling reasonably well now, and the temp gauge shows it staying right at normal operating temperature as long as we let it idle — but the second I shift into first gear and let the clutch out, the temp immediately climbs to 250°+. Here is a little video demonstrating the issue: We have some coolant system flush stuff in there right now and plan to drain it soon, as it’s been in there about three days now and we have run the engine a little each day. But before I put any more coolant in there I want to hear some ideas about what might be causing this. The car never acts like it is actively getting too hot, but the gauge says o…
Last reply by DadAndLadZ, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 575 views
Hi All, When coasting can hear a rattle in the front of car after further inspection it's the front brake pads in the Toyota calipers. The pads have a slight play up and down, under vehicle weight and non-braking conditions they're moving as the rotor turns. Louder when I start to drive and the brakes are cold, quieter when the brakes are hot but still moving. Have others experienced this noise with the Toyota front brake conversion? Any fix to the issue? No tabs to bend on the pad shim / backing plates. New pads only 300 miles. Thanks.
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 541 views
Hi guys, I was driving my 78 today and the car died while driving. I pulled over, checked for spark, pulled the oil pressure switch to force the pump on and nothing. I have a manual trigger for the cold start valve and when I did it, the car tried to start but after the fuel rail was cleared of fuel, that trick no longer worked. Eventually, after playing around with it further by pulling the fuel pressure regulator hose it started. I then put everything back the way it was and it continued to run a little rough but smoothed out leading me to believe the stuff I did under the hood didn't change anything. The rest of the trip went fine and it ran great inc…
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 604 views
I have a 1970 Datsun 240z that is completely disassembled with a full body restoration. I have. Rebello engine, T3 suspension, Zcar garage big brake kit and am looking to hire someone to hire to finish the job for me. I am a little over my head and currently have very little time to put towards finishing it. If you are interested to discuss please let me know.
Last reply by CHL240Z, -
- 8 followers
- 103 replies
- 7.1k views
Hi, all: This is my first post here. I am a middle-aged dad of two young sons and have owned 40-50 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles over the years. I mostly taught myself to wrench on them, so while I am generally competent, I have some glaring gaps in my mechanical knowledge. Recently the boys and I picked up a '74 260Z 2+2 that had not been started in seven years, and we have been working on getting it back on the road. The car starts right up and runs but the twin SU carb setup was running lean and way out of balance. I took the tops off, did some cleaning, replenished the oil in the dashpots, reset the mixture jets to the two-turns-below-deck baseline pr…
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.1k views
I just had the car running, but the other day when I went to start it, it just wouldn’t start. Today I attempted to get it running but to no avail. I ended up getting it to idle healthy, it smells rich but other than that idle is great. But as soon as I give it gas it begins to sputtering and giving front afm backfire. (Adjust the afm to get it to idle by adjusting the fuel mix). 1978 280z Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by kickstand80, -
- 2 followers
- 24 replies
- 2.1k views
Hi guys, Working on my friend's 1975 280z and when you connect the blue tach sense wire to the negative terminal on the ignition coil, the car will stall (and also won't start if already connected). He has the Crane XR700 ignition system if that helps at all. When I connect the blue tach sense wire and crank the car, the tach will move meaning it is connected but won't start until you remove the wire. Any ideas what's going on here?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 8 followers
- 49 replies
- 4.1k views
Well I was hoping on putting this off till next year, but it is growing in insistent on being done now. And I think I will need to replace the different fuel lines and hoses to and from the fuel tank. Now these hoses don't really exist, at least not very affordable, but does anyone know where they might be procured from ? I see the usual suppliers stock hoses for the 240 and 260 but none showing, ( at least in my humble searches to fit the 280Z ) I usually start trying to gather some of the parts before hand, and this filler neck Grommet # 17312-E8700 is very scarce, which is where I am right now ?
Last reply by Racer X, -
- 3 followers
- 33 replies
- 3.6k views
Is it possible to drain and refill transmission fluid, without lifting the car? I could take to a shop to get it lifted by the tires and have them change it, but I want to save money since I’m 18 and in college. I’ve heard you can refill using the reverse light method but I have no clue what they are talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by davewormald, -
- 4 followers
- 27 replies
- 1.8k views
I noticed that my gas tank seems to build up pressure, is this normal? Also, and possibly related, I had fuel leaking out of my rear SU carb after a few miles last week and the fuel pressure gage recently was showing 7.5 psi after a drive. The carbon canister was deleted by a PO. The return line to the fuel tank was reconnected after ? years so it has not been tested other than to confirm it was not leaking. My fuel system is currently as follows: 1) Fuel is pumped from the fuel tank, through a fuel filter using an after-market electric fuel pump to the engine compartment. 2) Fuel is pumped through the mechanical fuel pump and into a DIY fuel rail wit…
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 4 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
What transmission fluid is best? I have 1978 280z. I made another post about how to remove the infamous fill plug. But never actually asked what fluid to use. I’ve heard good things about redline MT90 but when I look online for it all i find is full synthetic, not sure if thats the right fluid. Any pointers on the best? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by EuroDat,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.