Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
First things first my 72 240z will not start and stay running at all. Since I purchased it almost three years ago it has slowly got harder and harder to start. I'm totally new to carburetors and need some help. I'm checked a few things and got an idea that the carbs are the problem. Engine (from the documentation I have) L28 with what I believe is the original L24 head Some type of Camshaft Upgrade Header Port/Polish SU Round top Carbs Pertronix Ignition/Coil To start this winter I replaced the points and coil with the Pertronix parts. My idea was to do this and tune the car up in the spring well come spring and it won't start. I went through the list of things I would d…
Last reply by glacier985, -
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- 7 replies
- 2.4k views
My headlight switch does always (usually not) turn on the marker and tail lights when I turn the the headlights. I saw a post from 2012 (http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/44812-77-280z-windshield-wiper-headlight-switch.html) that said Dave Irwin (from this club) was the man to contact. I tried sending Dave a private message, but it was kicked back as Dave could not be found. Does anyone have info on getting the switch repaired? I saw rebuilt ones available from ZCarSource. BTW, the car is a 75 280Z (I'm the original owner). Also, I'm a new member (yesterday), so if I'm not doing something correctly, please let me know. Thanks, Walt (member Walt75280Z)
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 replies
- 619 views
I have been driving this car for a few days. Today on my way to work, I started hearing loud clunking noises from the rear passenger side. I pulled over, and checked to make sure the lugs were tight. They were. I drove it another 20 feet still with the clunking. I came back to it after work and the tire was flat. It must have been a slow leak. I didnt notice pressure loss when I was checking the lugs. This clunking was felt through the car. I am going to get the tire repaired in the morning. I need a few things to look for when I go to fix it Eric in Montana
Last reply by nemesis, -
- 15 replies
- 2.1k views
Hey Guys, I just drove 240Z home 600 miles last weekend and she ran like a top. Now that I've gotten to know the car a little bit more I've noticed that clutch slips a little in 1st gear when starting from a stop. In the past couple of days there is a loud chatter/bang that comes from the transmission or clutch when I'm idling. The noise mostly goes away when I depress the clutch or get the RPM's up a fair amount. Any ideas?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 30 replies
- 8.3k views
Hey all, very soon I am getting a 1971 240z. Basically it's coming to me from family for free, though I know nothing about it in terms of condition and what damage is done. I was told it sat for 20 years with tons of parts installed/waiting to be installed including a lowered suspension, a transmission mount, front/rear sway bars, roll bars, new header and some front air scoop or something along those lines oh and new bucket seats, but if its been sitting for 20 years than idk. I'm completely new to 240z's and real cars in general. Here's a thread of my current car, a chevrolet cobalt. It's nothing special, trust me, just love for the look. I ended up putting in a C…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 9 replies
- 2.3k views
Ok the FSM says 24 degrees , I loosen the 2 bolts and turned the dizzy but 12 is as far as I can go . I can't find any other bolts. I think I have eliminated all vacuum leaks. Is there a bolt to loosen so that i can get more advance? My car dies at idle. thanks
Last reply by malibud, -
- 28 replies
- 3.1k views
This is about the 80th time I've posted with the same problem on this car its driving me stone crazy. Problem: Stumbles and bucks above 4K under load. Runs great up to 3800. Occasional miss at idle. It ran great with very very slight stumble above 5200RPM after re-doing the fuel pump. Whats been done: I've run all the checks and tests suggested by Zed Head, Fastwoman and others, kudo's to all for their help. Fuel pump rebuilt(new O rings and check valve) makes 37-38psi at idle, drops to around 30 under load, new injectors, new fuel line clamps, new fuel lines, new pressure regulator. No rust in the lines or at the pump. AFM calibrated per Blue at Atlantic Z. TPS adjuste…
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 2 replies
- 701 views
I've been fighting excessive oil consumption since acquiring my car almost 2 years ago. After changing the valve guide seals and replacing the head gasket with a genuine NISMO unit, I have eliminated all external oil leaks and the engine pulls 20" of vacuum and has 190 psi compression. The only hint of oil loss is a wet spark plug on #3 and an occasional puff of blue smoke after idling at a stop light. The #3 exhaust valve is a bear to unload because of its proximity to the cam tower, so I thought I might have bunged something up. I was prepared to replace the valve guide seals again until I did a good visual inspection after pulling the valve cover. The first thing …
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 5 replies
- 2.1k views
Hi guys! I visited my Z at storage the other day to charge the battery and to start getting excited about bringing her home to start my "spring cleaning" and to formulate a "to do" list for this year. When I closed the rear hatch, I could not get it open again. The button feels the same as it always has and I tried to jiggle,wiggle, insert key,lock,unlock etc. I could not get it open again!! The button depresses, and I can turn the key to lock and unlock it, it just won't unlatch to open. Anyone else ever had this issue? Can I access the mechanism from the inside? If so, where do I start? Thanks for any help you may have!! BTW, it is a 12/70 series 1 Regards, …
Last reply by 280zzzzz, -
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
'75 L28, fresh rebuild, wont start. 1. Ive got spark 2. Ive got Fuel 3. If I remove the hose going to the mechanical fuel pump outlet, and spray air through the hose towards the carbs, with the throttle open, fuel comes out from the carbs. I can then start the car for about 10 seconds, then it dies. 4. It will run off of starting fluid. Any ideas?
Last reply by tlorber, -
Latest video I've taken of the engine running. Background ITS 260z car so yes it has to keep the flat top carbs. Car was dynoed tuned last year I think and ran fine at the SCCA school (March). When we went to unload the car from the trailer it sounded horrible. I'm suppose to be at the race track today. Things Tried Pulled the headers and re-wrapped them to ensure there were no holes or cracks. New intake/exhaust manifold gasket. New spark plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Cleaned the carb slides. Also tried swapping the slides between the front and rear carbs. Compression test looked good. 155/145/150/130/150/150 (psi read from cylinder 6 to 1) R…
Last reply by djhedges, -
- 21 replies
- 4.5k views
I have been fighting the same problem for awhile now. One carb needs choke to run, the othef does not. So I rebuilt, same problem, so I swapped carb from one side to the other, follows the carb, swapped tops from one carb to the other, stays with carb body, doesn't follow the top. Pulled rebuilt again much much more throughly, eun way better, still needs choke on thay carb. I did so much adjusting that my head hurts, so thats not it. I can actually see fuel coming out on this one so if anything its running rich, but needs choke. The other carb hasn't been rebuilt so I was maybe gonna try that, but can't see how it could be the problem. I am on a low budget and afford new …
Last reply by 2sixTZombii,
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