Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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The car will start and idle fine run up to 3500 rpm when the secondaries should kick and boggs any ideas ? Before switch over to su carbs iwanted to try to get these going . I tried unscrewing and cleaning out the jets no help thanks it is a 73' l24 240z thanks
Last reply by malibud, -
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Hey, all. I have a Weber 32/36 on my truck with an electric choke. The butterfly is loosey goosey and doesn't snap into place like it should. It's like the spring has sprung. Everything appears to be hooked up right. Should there be any play in the linkage? It also seems kinda janky and loose. I can only crank it if I take the filter off and close the butterfly myself. Once it's warm it's wide open after that. Anyone know where I can buy that spring if that's the issue?
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Anyone know the equation for the +5.8% 3/4" high profile of the stubby in this figure? (I found equations for traditional elliptical bell mouths but not for a stubby plate design like in the figure)
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 6 replies
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Ok so I have the hood popped out in the cold the other day trying to get my car started and after it runs and dies I notice smoke rolling out of this thing just above the intake, its black, rubber, and has a chunk of hose coming out of it it leads to this that leads to more tubes that go into the head. I at the time had no idea what this was but looked it up in the FSM and found it to be the air pump inlet check valve. My has has dual webbers and no smog pump. I got her running decent today and decided to see if this is related to my running issues, I put my finger to it and notice smoke shoots out in rythm with the engine I plug it with my finger and idles drops, and car…
Last reply by Stanley, -
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Today I replaced my distributor cap and rotor. I have a pertronix electronic ignition in their. I touched absolutely nothing else, at all. I have checked the firing order about a dozen times, but the car absolutely will not start anymore. I drove it about 5 minutes before doing the change. The car cranks, and after cranking, it actually does fire a few times like its running on two cylinders for a few seconds before dying. So there has to be some ignition happening. I pulled the spark plugs, they look fine. After all, the car just ran. What could I be missing?
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
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i just bought a 1973 240z for my first car. it turns over but doesnt start. it turns over really smooth but just wont fire. what should i do first to try to get it to start? it has original su carbs. any help will be greatly appreciated.
Last reply by spiffy240z, -
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I discovered that the previous owner of my 1972 240Z replaced the gas tank with the wrong one,and am in need of the original . Does anyone have any ideas ,or better still, one for sale ?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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My FSM gives the torque for the M10 bolts that attach the ball joint to the control arm as 35-45 ft-lb. But as I was tightening past 30 the bolts that came with my ball joints (marked with a "10" on the head) started to pull apart. I tried again with some new 10.9 bolts that I have and even those feel like they're stretching. They feel kinda spongy instead of torquing up crisply. This is all with my wrench set below 35 ft-lbs; I checked that I was indeed using foot pounds. What could I be doing wrong here? Any ideas? Top bolt with the big crack is what came with the Moog ball joint; bottom bolt is my non-JIS 10.9 M10x1.25.
Last reply by bacarl, -
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Hey just finished doing a major overhaul on my back carb, with how many times the damned thing tried to kill my car I feel like it was more of an exorcism. Got in back on, car runs great let it warm and take it for a spin around the block, out of no where it starts running like crap, then dies, ten will not start back up cause the battery is dead, jump it with my daily same thing happens again before I can get it home, finally just push it, charge up battery all the way, starts right up, runs awesome, get the voltage meter hooked right at start up reading 11.97 couple minutes later, 11.84, rev it up a few times, 11.77 watching it as I rev it, It falls to 11.64 car misses …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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The standard biston for 280 engine or make it 0.5
Last reply by Ali Aloosh, -
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Hi folks- This is my first post here. By way of introduction, I am not new to forums and I'm also not new to working on cars. Although I will say that working on gasoline engines is not really my strong suit; I'm a bit more familiar with diesels. I owned a 1971 240Z in my 20's, and I bought another one about a year and a half ago. I bought this Z in southern California and drove it home to northern New Mexico. The car is in decent condition, although it took a lot of tinkering to get it back here.... new plugs and a few filters along the way... but it did make it. It's been basically sitting for the last year and a half. I drive it every once in a while just to keep …
Last reply by robox, -
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Hi, I bought a 240z style bumper for my early 260z, After I got it repainted only did I realize that the 240 brackets didn't line at all. Well I decided to pull the brackets off to figure out a solution, So I went at it and regardless of how WD40 I used or how much I qire wheeled the threads the bolt made it half way and promptly broke. I still have one on one side but on the other they are both fubar. The smaller angled brackets appear to be welded to the bumper itself, and I can't reweld them. I need to remove the old bolts, but see no way to replace them, I have a few ideas but am really lost on how to get them out other than drill them out. Are they welded in place or…
Last reply by 2sixTZombii,
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