Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 9 replies
- 5k views
Hi everyone, The issue is this; within 500' of pulling out of the driveway and under the first bit of load, say up hill, the car will run great then it will seem to run on 3 cylinders. It will run cut to half power, run rough but not die, then seems to recover provided I keep it under 3,000 rpms after a series of exhaust backfires. I thought it might be fuel starvation but pressure measured after the pump is in the correct range. I did swap the fuel pump and had the same pressure. The tank was boiled and repaired during the restoration. There is no contamination in the filter, which is new. I have had a Pertronix Ignitor with the stock coil in the car for about 200 m…
Last reply by ollie, -
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- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
Previous owner rigged the heater core piping so now my heater core is always hot. I can't hardly stand the heat during a NC humid summer afternoon. I'm going to correct the entire circuit in the next few weeks, but there is a shut off valve in the hose coming from/going to the water pump. I'm not sure of the flow or if blocking the water through the heater core will cause over heating. I would like to turn off the heat, but I don't want to screw up my engine. Thanks for the help.
Last reply by zKars, -
Cam Wear 1 2 3
by 240260280z- 31 replies
- 6.8k views
L24 fresh rebuild with Schneider springs, medium Delta regrind Cam (internal oiling), and new reground rockers ate the cam after ~ 2000mi. Very good oil pressure. Assumed bad metal, straight 30 break in oil followed by synthetic oil played a part. After removing and resolving the above... A new medium Schneider Cam with new rockers was installed 1,500mi ago and lobe 1 is starting to show wear. (on the back side of the lobe). The oil is dyno with zinc additive. I am now guessing that the Schneider springs and/or a partial oil blockage to the head are to blame. The springs were extremely difficult to install due to their high spring constant and the oil flow out of th…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 6 replies
- 1.3k views
hi guys ive just rebuilt my l28 and i have put a performance camshaft in it my qestion is how much will this change my timing i cant seem to get it to start and its seem to be a timing issue .all timing gear has been set to factory settings
Last reply by madkaw, -
Hello all Yesterday evening my Z began making an increadibly loud and very annoying rattling noise from the rear of the car. I can't remember exactly what time it began but it has, for what I can tell, become worse. The noise, the best I can describe, sounds like, well if you left the door ajar and it was rattling. It does it, really randomly, but when the road is uneven and bumpy the noise is always there. I've jack the back of the car up and shook, moved and really done anything and everything to get the noise to occur but nothing. I took the rear pannel off to discover that the antenna was, well just hanging there and in pieces. I fixed this thinking it was the noise b…
Last reply by Pomorza, -
- 3 replies
- 1k views
Good evening everyone, I have a 1975 280z which is making this electrical noise and it seems to be coming from the efi. Is this a normal noise since the car is old or is it something that can cause a problem? The car runs and drives fine, the efi are pretty responsive as well. Pls let me know you input.http://youtu.be/kOyzsGtac8o!
Last reply by beermanpete, -
- 2 replies
- 825 views
Searched the forums and can't find anything relating to what I need. Looking for the size of the 4 bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame rails. I thought they were 8x1.25 metric but those don't seem to fit. The bolts are in bad shape. I tried checking them at oreilly but its really difficult to get them to thread into the gauge plate they have at the store. Chris
Last reply by ElCimino, -
- 11 replies
- 1.9k views
ok first im sorry if i posted this in the wrong section ... im new to forums ... ive searched for a while on what it could be but im having no luck... the caricon1.png ran fine before i parked it like 2 weeks ago... i had it in my garage doing a clutch replacement... never turned the motor counter clockwise or nothing like that did that and the oil pan gasket... the only thing i did to the motor besides the gasket was change the plug wires, spark plugs, and remove the intake (orange air box) from the carbs... one of the tubes on the intake(orange air box) that the hose from the carb to the intake(orange air box) was bent shut so i put a new one on ... now my car will…
Last reply by Mr.Green the Great, -
- 1 reply
- 2.6k views
The PO upgraded the distributor on my Automatic Transmission equipped Series I. The Dual Point distributor he removed was a D614-52. He replaced it with a D6K80-03 from a 1979 280ZX Automatic. The latter distributor closely matches the vacuum and centrifugal schedules of the D609-56A that originally came with the car. Reading the Haynes manual, it lists a Hitachi C6R-200 for Contact Breaker Ignitions and a Hitachi CIT 13 for Transistor Ignitions with Automatic Transmission. From what I can see from the specs, the major difference is in the primary coil resistance 1.5-1.7 ohms for the C6R and 0.45-0.55 ohm for the CIT. The coil in the car is a C6R-800. Is there a reason …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 10 replies
- 2.6k views
I'm in a bit of a pickle . I have a 71 Z , and the hood latch cable broke at the latch itself . I would like any suggestion short of cutting metal . I have removed the starter to gain some room on the pass side and am in the prossess of removing the exhaust pipe from the header to gain more on the drivers side . Can't say I'm very good at using a puter , so I thank you all for your patience . Wouldn't mind some tech drawings or photos to help me see what I can't . Like I said , I,m new at this computer stuff . My nephew just got me hooked on to the intertube and I feel old . Thanks !
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 4 replies
- 1.4k views
My gas filler hose that connects from the gas tank to where you put the pump nozzle in, has a little hole in the rubber hose just above the hose clamp that connects the hose to the gas tank. It is a very little hole but enough for the fuel to leak out during filling or when the fuel is that high in the tank. My question is, will JB weld, Ultra Blue or Permatex "Form A Gasket Sealant" wrapped with foil tape stop the leak? Does anyone have an idea that could. I'm low on cash so buying a new hose is kind of out of the question. Thank you for reading.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 33 replies
- 3k views
Well I was going to put the Z up for sale but now I can't. It has been running very well with multiple stops and turning it off. Today it ran great all day except the left turn signal quit working (bulbs are all good), got home and went to move it and no start, no lights, no fuel pump no nothing except the dome light which goes on and off, if I hit the Hazard switch the dome blinks with the blinker of the hazard. Nothing else works. Battery checked and is above 12V, fusible links check fine, no blown fuses. What the hell is going on? Maybe its rebelling for wanting to sell her!
Last reply by mjr45,
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