Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 35 replies
- 3.3k views
75 280Z with EFI, new EFI connectors all around, injectors, CSV, thermotine, temp sensor, AFM, TPS, AAM also new thermotine switch, temp sensor, CSV and AAM. Today while tinkering I found out that if I touch the EFI harness wires to the thermotine, temp sensor, the temp sender or CSV, the engine dies. There is no ground wire that I can find on the EFI harness. The engine runs fine as long as you don't touch any of the wires I mentioned. Since I'm basically not very good with electrical stuff I'm lost.:tapemouth
Last reply by Willoughby Z, -
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- 2 replies
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could someone tell me what is used for a seal between the e-brake handle and the tunnel?
Last reply by Z dreams, -
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Hey guys...I'm over at my parents right now looking at my father's 76 280Z. The car is completely stock with no engine modifications and I believe it still has the original fuel pump in it. He has been having an issue with "backfiring" for a while now and after we looked at it together today I can hear it actually coming from the intake side through the AFM. From what I've read using the search function this can indicate a lean condition. The backfiring only happens when you jab the throttle to accelerate...which I also believe would be consistant with a lean problem. All of the vac hoses seem to be in good shape as does the boot between the AFM and throttle body. I …
Last reply by RPM Resto & Custom, -
- 11 replies
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Just joined the zclub and have a major problem. Installed 81zx 60amp alternator and my hook-up to the regulator had only 5 pins wired, not six like the change over showed. HOOKED UP the alternator and battery is not charging. Could any one help please? my 50amp was not charging like I wanted. I have a genneric stereo and speakers not hi-tech stuff and no heavy loads on the system.:disappoin:paranoid: Forgot to tell u folks that I have a 75 280z modified to three screw su's done by ztherapy. Thanks again.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Is the coil hooked up right now? I did find BW to + and B to -, and GW to balance resistor but missing something? I notice also there a black wire coming from the booster area, and thought this was on the balance resistor? But shouldn't all the wires for the ignition come from the front loom? And also I'm confused what's the function of the part that's under the coil, pictured? I assume 1 hose went to what the picture shows? But the other connection seems closed anyhow? Anyone some information on this? Thanks
Last reply by Willoughby Z, -
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- 1k views
Hello all Once again I have broken one of the three little plugs that sit atop the evap canister located on the passengers side (the large round black thing). This time around it was the one that vents the tank - or at least I think it does - the one that connects to the large steel fuel line looking thing. So question, is it possible to run the car without this? I know that the dizzy gets a vac line connected to it from it but other then that I can't see the car running any different. I would like to fix it - or get a new/used but at the moment I lack funds. Thank all Jan
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I'm all set to reinstall the tension-compression rods, and it appears I'm either missing a piece, or I have the wrong size front bolts. The bolts, which I carefull labelled and stored at the time of disassembly, are 9 mm. The holes are 10 mm. In the parts catalogues there are what appear to be bushings, but Black Dragon calls them "washers," and they're only for 260-280 models - I've got a 240. It's been several years since it all came apart, and I have no recollection of any bushings or washers. Can anyone describe for me the proper attachment of tension-compression rod to front control arm? Thanks
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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I have a 1974 260Z. I'm getting low vacuum reading between 8-10" with very rapid fluctuations of the needle. Also, I can pull the # 1,2,& 3 plug wires off individually or all at once with no reduction in rpm's. I've checked and/or replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. I've also tested to see I was getting good spark to all cylinders, ensured the front carburetor was getting fuel. I've done a compression test and a leak down test all with good readings. Also checked for vacuum leaks using propane and a hose (very thoroughly). Also did a soapy water test around the head checking for a leaking head gasket even though I'm not losing any coolant nor are any exhaust g…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 12 replies
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Just finished reinstalling the rebuild head.now everything is back in and ready to start. We did a valve adjustment, checked the firing order.i guess everything to start it up. I gave it some gas and it started up but, my first valve(exhaust) was making a sound like air escaping .not ticking.going back to the reason I got my head rebuild. The same valve was dropping the lash. I put it back on about three times but it kept on coming off.i guess what I'm trying to say is that did we mess up installing it or the head was rebuild bad or the head was in too bad of condition to be rebuild. .sorry if the description is too brief ask any question if It sound to confusing
Last reply by anthony280z2+2, -
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Hi, If there is anyone who has changed the dashlights rheostat and didn't find it too difficult - I need your help please. As is, I've removed the driver's seat and placed numerous cushions and folded towels down to make lying on my back relatively comfortable. After that it's all up hill - access is tight and visibility is limited. There must be an easy way; I just haven't read about it in any forums or been able to figure it out for myself. Everything else on the old girl works so I'd really like to have her 100%. Thanks, George
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
- 5 replies
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Just replaced rear seal but looks like I still have a leak; I had to pull the tranny again for other reasons so will replace seal again. Didn't replace the side seals; will do those later. I didn't grease the main seal before I installed the first time; so since the tranny is out again, will do it right this time. Called Nissan to ask for the seal but they have two different part numbers: 12279-2B500 and 12279-R4611. I have a 260z block - any opinions about the right part number? Also, is Nissan geniune replacement seals the best seal to reinstall? Better luck with Felpro or others? Thanks.
Last reply by clayton 260z, -
- 10 replies
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Welp, I miscalculated parts, and turns out I don't actually have enough of any one thing to put my car together properly. My car unbeknownst to me had a ball and socket kit put on the tension rods some time loooong before I got it, and the plastic balls are heavily worn. The drivers side ball is pretty disintegrated. I have: -one set of energy urethane bushings complete with metal tubes that goes through them (which I think is the same dimensions as the stock ones I don't have, if somebody could confirm or deny that'd be great) -one set of rubber bushings, rubber only. (what I intended to use in the first place) -one pair of ball and socket tension rod upgrade par…
Last reply by Powderkeg,
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