Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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I am doing the Honda motor upgrade and have taken everything apart to clean, lube, etc, and looking to put back together. Looking for a diagram showing how everything goes back together. I have searched and could not find anything. Help please! Thanks!!
Last reply by Duffman, -
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- 33 replies
- 6k views
Hello everyone.....I'm working on a 78 280Z 2+2 that my brother recently picked up. I just had the engine rebuilt as well as doing some patch work and other general upkeep. The car starts up and runs really well except for extended cranking in the cold weather. I started digging into the Cold Start Valve system and I'm still unable to get it working properly. Initially I removed the cold start valve and put it into a container to see if I would get fuel when cranking it out in the cold after sitting all night. No fuel. So I jumpered the csv directly off of the battery and despite having fuel pressure it would not spray. I obtained a replacement and the same test o…
Last reply by RPM Resto & Custom, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 8.8k views
Ok guysm I'm at my wits end trying to figure this out, I have searched here, hybridz, and zcar.com. Several people with hot start issues, several different fixes for each of them, none of which have worked for me. The car starts an runs fantastically,no hesitation, no backfires, no smoke, nothing. When the car is run on the freeway or allowed to get up to operating temperature then turned off, after sitting for 10-15 minutes it will start, but runs on 4-5 cylinders. As soon as the car starts moving and the rpm's reach 2,000, it goes away instantly. Checked the WTS, Thermotime and cold start are disconnected, all fusible link, relays including FI and power relay are good. …
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi, I have come across what looks like a good 71 240Z for $2300 which I am thinking of buying. The owner knows little about it, it has been garaged for the last 10 years and never been started. It has a little rust but looks good. I don't want to start it because it has been sitting for so long. My questions are what should I be looking for in terms of trouble spots, what should I do to the car before starting it as it has been sitting so long and is 2300 a good price? I love the Z car, I was thinking I would end up with 280Z or a ZX but a 240Z looks very nice. Any help appreciated, thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
I'm at my wits end with my 75 280. On Friday I noticed the fuel pump wouldn't shut off with the key, then shortly after that it started running super rich and rough. at first I thought fouled plugs, before I did anything I looked for vacuum leaks, lose wires anything out of place. Then I did some searching on here and the Web, nothing I read fit so anyway I changed the plugs, water temp sending unit, fuel pump, and the ignition coil. I switched out the fuel pump relay as well. All cylinders are getting spark. I'm limited to just a few hand tools as most are still in Colorado. Until Friday the car was running fine. Thanks in advance for suggestions and ideas. Eric
Last reply by Cethern, -
- 13 replies
- 1.8k views
I have a 1978 280z, stock car, no mods. It sat for about 5 years. I drained the tank, placing a fuel filter between the tank and the new fuel pump, changed the oil and flushed the radiator. I replaced the fuel injectors, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. I also installed a new temperature sensor. I read it causes problems so I replaced it since it was only $15. My 2nd cylinder is missing (wire's and plug are good, tested by swapping with Cyl 1 plug and wire, and they worked on cyl 1). The 2nd fuel injector isn't working, I hear no tick. I suspect I may need new connectors since they are in pretty bad shape. Any suggestions what kind? I have not checked th…
Last reply by tfsbecause, -
Distributor Help 1 2 3
by fastd- 28 replies
- 6.8k views
I pulled my distributor to change the leaky gaskets at the distributor and oil pump (part of a bigger job of replacing the clutch, oil pan gasket, seals). Anyway, I think I got the oil pump and distributor right but I think I may be off a tooth (or two). The car started but just barely; no backfires or funny sounds; but I couldn't keep it alive. I checked TDC and its pointing to the #1 spark plug wire... Question: Can I pull the distributor with out upsetting the oil shaft? Can I just lift the distributor and drop it back down +/- a tooth? It seems like the shaft only goes in one of two ways, either right or 180 degrees off - is that correct? To save me doing this a…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 8 replies
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Sooo... I should start by saying I've read on here as much as I could... No brake lights. The pedal switch tests good. There is 8 volts on one of the black why yellow wires going to pedal switch. (Any ideas as for why 8?) My main question I suppose is at what location/connector does this wire turn from black/yellow to green yellow? I feel seriously stupid right now... Any help appreciated.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
Hi guys. I'm thinking of making a running cutaway L6 engine for a display. Carbs should be the simplest approach, and running on a couple of cylinders, with the rest exposed. Oiling and cooling would have to be addressed, but if it only ran for a few minutes at a time cooling should'nt be an issue. Has anyone done this before with an L6? Here is a guy on youtube running a Ford model A engine like that. Can anyone offer advice on this. Is it feasible? Would it create interest at a car show? Brian.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 2 replies
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Installing new side seals. Nissan part. Do two lips face the block or the crankshaft? These are one piece seals from Nissan. Thanks
Last reply by WW2Winger, -
T/S issue!
by mjr45- 11 replies
- 1.4k views
My right T/s quit and after posting a question got to work. First off 6-8 of the wires in the passenger side tunnel had come out of the connector and after multiple attempts at crimping wires for a new connector gave up and soldered them all(crimping wires to connectors is something I've never been able to do correctly, I've got about 6 crimping tools). After still no T/S attacked the switch which I've taken apart 3 times and the best I get is an intermittant right T/S so I know its in the switch. I'm a little leery about working on it again for fear of the little tabs breaking off and then what?
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 5 replies
- 2.9k views
There are five bolts to mount the water pump to the timing cover but there are 7 holes. Are the other 2 holes in the timing cover for alignment pins or are there supposed to be threaded studs there? Thanks, Randy
Last reply by siteunseen,
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