Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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I have a 73 project I took on and I can't seem to figure out what I am going to do about the hardware. When I got the car it came with a bucket of rusty bolts that I have sorted through and cleaned up. I am not sure I want to try to figure out where they go or if I should order all new hardware. Is it possible to order them all togeteher? Mostly for all the front and rear suspenson right now.
Last reply by bvolken, -
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- 1 follower
- 44 replies
- 4.4k views
A few weeks ago, I turned the car off after work, and much to my dismay, it wouldn't start the next morning. Since then, I've got a new starter motor in it, recharged the battery (several times), and rebuilt the carbs. The fuel pump is working, and for the first time in weeks its actually turning over, and trying to fire, but its still not starting. It just sputters. I've got my nozzles down about 3.5 turns, though I've tried it in every position from 2-5 turns. Starting fluid helps, but it dies shortly after. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here... Its hard to do anything with it since I don't have a garage, and its below freezing here in Salt Lake. I was out in the cold f…
Last reply by ninjazombiemaster, -
Dead Injectors? 1 2
by z_ya- 14 replies
- 1.3k views
1978 280Z all stock. Ran fine this morning just driving around, then I pulled into work to check a few things maybe took 20 minutes then I came back out started it up, and it just sputtered and was really just running rough it sounded as though it was missing. It would pop at every rpm and every gear and shakes horribly. I ran through the FSM and the connection test tells me I have no volts going to my injectors 2 and 3 but when I listen to them they sound fine. I went ahead and ordered new injectors for the car. I have no other idea what it could be. Any suggestions or ideas?
Last reply by rcb280z, -
- 6 replies
- 2.8k views
I am trying to decide weather or not to replace all the brake lines and fuel lines. I see the kits on ebay that come with different lengths of lines. Would that be the way to go or making my own. I am looking for photos of how the lines run under the car. I see the rubber holders, I am missing some of the screws and brackets that hold them in. I would like to know what order the lines go in in the holders. Does any one have picture they can show me?
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
- 9 replies
- 5.1k views
I have a 1970 240z and need to remove the steering lock I lost the keys and need to move it what tool removes the bolts ?
Last reply by ZCurves, -
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
Lads This past weekend I went on a rather lengthy drive with the Z - it was really nice to get her out on some nice curvy roads kill some tires. I have noticed that on deceleration there is a distinct smell of oil. My buddy was driving behind me and said he could smell oil but didn't see any smoke - other then black when I floored it around corners. When I got back in town I was about .5 - .75 qaurt short on oil, which I'm assuming was burned. Pulling the plugs, there's not fauling but the #3 and #4 plug show that oil was present at one time or another. For what I remember from all the lovely books I've read this is a sign that the valve seals are bad. Am I correct in th…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
Hi I've been restoring my 72' 240z that's completely stock. I've got round top SU carbs that I rebuilt with the Z therapy rebuild. I recently got it running for the first time in fifteen years which is great. After the car gets up to operating temperature, and the choke is completely off, if I spike the accelerator it bogs down. If i hold the accelerator down about halfway it bogs down and eventually dies. If I feather the throttle and get the rpms up to about 2000, then spike the accelerator it will rev, but with quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I checked the float levels using the clear tube method and both appear to be fine. I'm not sure what to do nex…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 16 replies
- 1.9k views
Hello, I am looking for this model: This picture above is the only I have left that's fairly intact, it's from the passenger side door ( right ). If somebody has a set he's willing to sell and send it to the netherlands, or you live nearby let me know. my e-mail is: info@bartsscooterservice.nl , phone +31617808862
Last reply by bartsscooterservice, -
- 43 replies
- 3.5k views
I've been cleaning this head for a week now. And after soaking it in hot simple green, and using stripping cleaner to remove what's left of the head gasket, is it now clean enough to run? Its smooth in all the dark spots, thid isnt super performance racing build. This is a get my car back on the road build
Last reply by Perfect240Z, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
It controls nothing, it makes no sound or moves heat to different vents at all. The vehicle is a '78 280Z. When moved to air con though it will do something. Right now it seems to be stuck on everything for vent selection it comes from the defrost the floor the main console vent and even the sides. Has anyone else had this problem or can anyone aid me in to fixing this? Thanks in advance guys.
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 15 replies
- 7.9k views
Ok,...my 240Z had a clunk in the rear end. Crawling under her, I decide it is a bad rear drive shaft U-joint. I have replaced MANY u-joints on other model cars over the years,..so I thought this would be a piece of cake. I even decided to proceed and replace ALL the joints, (all 4 joints on both the half shafts and both drive/prop shaft joints). I orderd all 6 u-joints from Black Dragon. Assuming the half shafts would be the most difficult, I decided to do them first. I knocked those out yesterday evening. They went much easier than I had even expected. Being quite proud of my work, I started in on the drive shaft u-joints today. OMG!!! 1st,..I had to contort my ha…
Last reply by John Coffey, -
- 1 reply
- 790 views
So my 1978 280z is flooding at idle. I was wondering if the coil had anything to do with it. When I unplug it from the distributor and move the coil wire about an inch from the body. I get a orangeish spark while around 1k RPM's. Shouldn't the spark be blue?
Last reply by SteveJ,
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