Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
- 2k views
ok, probably a few silly questions but not getting too much help with info, so I'll try again here. I have 72 240. 1) motor block is stamped 'L26' not 'L24" so im thinking its 2.6litre block right? yes?no? found a ATK ENGINES tag on the block, so im pretty sure i have a rebuilt crate motor here. 2) head is e88, i've been schooled with the differences in various e88 heads, so i think i have that straight. 3) su carbs, three bolt round tops. so what im thinking is someone has replaced the motor, and probably kept the original intake set-up. I just finished a major tune-up. everything from points,condens. to dwell timing, ignit timing, valve gap adjustment. seems to be runni…
Last reply by LeonV, -
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- 15 replies
- 6.2k views
It is common knowledge that Mallory ignition modules do not really care for too much voltage. The instructions that came with my new dizzy say to hook up the red power wire to the 12 volt ignition source. Well on my car that was 13.8 volts... Poof went the first module. Fast forward 90 dollars later with a new ignition module, and the instructions with that replacement module say hook up the red wire to the opposite side of the ballast to the 12 v ignition source. Problem here is my ballast resister puts out like 12.4 volts down from 13.8 This would probably smoke the new resister. I have an extra OEM ballast I can hook up in series to the Mallory ballast that may step …
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 2 replies
- 844 views
So today i adjusted the AFM tooth wheel. I had my dad put pressure on the wheel while I unloosened the screw but I forgot to tell him not to let go, so he did let go before I was able to tighten it(REGRETS!). After awhile, I was driving and the car would just stumble. The gas pedal also became sensitive. so every time I would slightly let go of the gas pedal, the car would just decelerate really fast. I know for sure I recoiled the spring in the AFM. If that's the case, how would I go about fixing that?
Last reply by mi3nboijosh, -
Still runs rich!! 1 2 3
by mjr45- 29 replies
- 3.4k views
75 280Z with 79 block and dizzy. After replacing the temp sensor and adjusting the AFM 4 teeth CW, it still runs very rich, plugs are covered in black soot, black soot and condensation blowing out the exhaust pipe when first started. The idle will not remain steady and requires adjustment almost every day, I've already replaced AAM which helped. I also know there is a vacuum leak, but can't find it anywhere, vacuum is about 12 psi with all new lines, AFM boots, etc. Timing is about 8 degrees and I know the oil pump is off about 1 tooth, which prevents advancing the timing any further. Could the timing being off cause it to run this rich? I really hate to try and tweak the…
Last reply by mjr45, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Ok so i havent tried to start my 1977 280z in abut 6 months and it use to run fine, but now when i try to start it she trys to stay running but there is a sound of like pressure releasing and it kills the car as soon as that happens, im only one person so i cant see where the sound is coming from, the only possible idea i have had so far is that the echaust is pretty rotted out and there is not enough back pressure, but im new to working on these older vehicals im more into newer imports but this car was just passed down to me and i have big plans for it so any help would be nice.
Last reply by ZCurves, -
While not 100% appropriate, the "Help Me!" section is definitely where this belongs...</SPAN> I've posted on the Wanted Section, run Craigslist Ads for months, and exhausted my Z-Network here in Northern VA... I can't find an N42 head! Datsun Spirit is building me a motor and I need to supply a core for the build (it's replacing my L24 so that's no good), but hot damn this thing is proving hard to find. I understand some have brass seats and that's not desirable, so I guess I'm looking for the white whale of heads!</SPAN> I've got about three weeks left until he starts my motor, at which point if I have no head, I'm either going to have to replace my headers…
Last reply by ksbeta, -
- 8 replies
- 2k views
I just recently installed my freshly rebuilt l24 back into my z and have had a few kinks to work out to get it running. It cranks over and it did run for the first couple times i tried to start it after i unclogged the carb fuel distribution lines. Though now i hooked up the cooling system and have been trying to tune the engine, it will not stay running. Im fairly certain it is getting intermittent spark because like i said it will crank over, run for a few seconds and then shut off as if some one switched the key off. Also if you try to crank it sometimes it will not start. So i took the high tension wire off and put it near the engine and no spark. but then if i fiddle…
Last reply by J Shara, -
- 11 replies
- 1.2k views
Okay so haven't had a problem until late last night. My left turn signal works fine, when I go and hit my right turn signal I can hear the flasher relay buzzing like crazy. I hit the hazards, and the arrows on is bright on the left, but dim on the right. This morning, same thing, so I checked my hazard switch (turned it on) and now the arrows don't come on. Still works when I hit the left turn signal though. All the other lights are working (parking, head, reverse etc), just no right front or rear turn signals. Every time I hit the hazard switch it immediately kills the 10a fuse now. I replaced the flasher with one I found at the autoparts store and some smoking…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 reply
- 820 views
The rubber bungs that cove the safety Belt Bolts, I need 2 eith new or used, hole shown in photo attached. And the rubber buffers that fit between the bumper and the fender wher the bolt goes through, new or excellent used please. All advice appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 3 replies
- 925 views
Hello All. The winter here in Oregon is fast approaching and I find that the air will not change from the center exhaust to the defrost. Further the temp will not get warm. Here is what I have: - 76 280z - no leaks in the heater core - plenty of coolant - Original AC works...though doesn't seem as cold as last year (no biggie) - Had replace the heater control valve with a rebuild from The ZMan (original was leaking) When I turn on the air, it comes out the from. When I move the lever to Defrost, the air remains coming out the front. Moving the temp lever to Hot, the air remains coming out the front and does NOT warm up. I see a couple of splits in some of the vacuum …
Last reply by StephenJ, -
- 1 reply
- 890 views
Hey guys I have a bit of an odd question to ask. Over the past couple of days I've noticed that the Z doesn't start like it used to. This is what I mean, from the day I bought the car when you turn the key over the second it hit "start" (or on which ever it is) the starter would rotate and the car would start. Over the past few days I've noticed a noticable pause, as in I turn the key to the "start" position and there's a noticable pause before the starter rotates? Any ideas on why? I have two new battery cables and a new starter (gear reduction). Thanks Jan
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 replies
- 978 views
getting to know my newest addition to the garage. 24o with the su's and pretty much stock config as far as ive found. just doesnt seem to be making the power it should. first impression is running a little lean, but what are your thoughts? the good starts great, idles great, runs good, no overheating the bad makes really mediocre power. spools up fine to about 3000 but seems to flutter over that. revs will continue to rise, but power is not up to par. blows a haze over 5000 out the pipe. checked, wires,cap,rotor, all the basic stuff seems good. havent gotten too into timing, but engine runs starts so good i doubt its out too far. pulled plugs, a couple had carbon powder,…
Last reply by olzed,
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