Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 13 replies
- 3.1k views
Hi guys. I'm reassembling my clutch system, and my new clutch slave cylinder lacks the old unit's boss to hold one end of the spring that goes from the release fork end. The upshot is that I won't be able to use the OEM release fork return spring with the new clutch slave. Will I be okay?
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
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- 3 replies
- 923 views
Guys I need a brake booster for a 72 Z, ASAP , I can wire $ or paypal,,,,, please make sure that it's working properly with good diaphragm
Last reply by kjohnson2444, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
I am trying to get the rear struts out of my 73. I'm stuck trying to get the transverse link apart. I have the end pivot bolts off. There is a stop bolt in the middle. On my car and my parts car this a stud with a 12mm nut on it. The nut came off fine on both, leaving a stud. Does this stud have to come out to get the link rod out? If so, how do I get it out? Should this be a bolt iinstead of a stud? How hard should it be to get the rod out? The stud seems stock just because it is the same on both cars. Thanks.
Last reply by mccallzman, -
- 7 replies
- 1.2k views
Does anyone have one of these lying around they can ship to me (central NC, ZIP 27023) so that it'll arrive by next Tuesday? #14 here: One of the fittings is completely rounded on the one I have, and I'm trying to get my Z back on the road for the first time in 8 years so I can drive my son to school in it on his last day of 1st grade (next Thursday). Called my local Nissan parts counter Z expert and he says they're NLA. I also went to Carquest, NAPA and the local import parts specialist and none of them can match up the thread size and pitch. Any help would be awesome. I'm going to call local junkyards tomorrow...
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
- 8 replies
- 6.6k views
I posted recently about a timing "incident;" you can read about that here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46029.html I've finally gotten the head back from the machine shop and everything back together. The shop replaced two intake valves and all six exhaust valves, as well as the valve guides for the exhaust. My problem now is that I can't get any gap at all between the cam and the exhaust rockers. I was able to adjust the intakes successfully, so I know I'm not stupid. What's going on here? My father is visiting just to help me finish up and drive it, and now it's looking like a no-go. The valve adjustment was fine after I rebuilt the engine and before droppin…
Last reply by emptech, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
How do you remove the outer stainless steel door / window trim? This is the chrome (SS), trim that runs along the top of the door right at the edge of the window opening. I can't find anything on it in the FSM nor the Haynes manual. I can't find any screws. I assume it prys off,...but I wanted to ask before I tear it up trying to remove it incorrectly.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
I purchased headlight covers but after I recieved them, I realized I would have to drill holes in the headlight boxes to hold them down. It says you can install them with double sided tape but I have a 400hp engine in the car and I take it to the track. I am worried that these things will end up causing me trouble down the road and then I will have to remove them and will have screw holes from the lens. I am worried dirt etc will get inside the lens over time, etc. If anyone has had these on their car, I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
This should be an easy one. My car had two wipers and arms in the trunk when I got it. The arms are about 1 inch different in length. If this is correct, which side to they go on? I am guessing the two sides are different based on some ads and comments I have seen. The parts store said the correct blade length is 18" but they sold me 17" blades due to installing J-shaped plastic parts that make the arm a bit longer. I am also wondering if the blades might be different in length based on how things are fitting on the car. Thanks, it looks like rain here. Gary
Last reply by ggunder, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
So I dove into my caliper rebuild this evening. Got the passenger-side bugger off, pads out, and had a time getting both pistons out, but I managed (got one out using compressed air in the hose, and I reinserted it just enough to pass the bore o-ring and held it there with a pair of channel locks while I popped the other out with the compressed air). Cleaned the pistons up, all looked fine, and I renewed the bore o-rings. Pushed the pistons back in, went to install the new dust boots and retaining wires, and... How in the world do you get the lower lip of the dust boot to stay put while you install the retaining wire? I was pulling my hair out, getting frustrated, s…
Last reply by BoldUlysses, -
- 8 replies
- 3.6k views
i just finished an engine swap (l28) in my 1972 240z that has been sitting for like 3 years. everything was ready to go except the fuel pump isn't working. Its an electronic fuel pump located just in front of the gas tank. i checked the voltage of the wires to the pump and was getting 11.5 volts, so i figured i have a bad pump. i went to schucks to purchase another one, but all they could find me was a mechanical fuel pump, which i was not even aware was on the z. i looked for a spot that it could go, but couldn't find one. the car ran with the electric fuel pump just fine when it worked, so i would like to replace that part, not swap a mechanical one in there. Am i wrong…
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
- 28 replies
- 6.1k views
Hi all, I have a moderate leak in my original R12 A/C (1978). It needs to be juiced up every year to cool. This year, again, it's only cooling just a bit. I exhausted the last can of my R12 hoard a couple of years ago, and last year's professional topping-off set me back $150. I think it's time to lose the R12, fix the leak, and recharge with Freeze-12. I see in the FSM that the system takes 1.5 - 2 lb of freon, fully charged. I believe my topping off amounted to about a pound of freon, so would this imply that I have about 1/2 to 1 lb of freon in the system? Would that amount of freon give me a marginal cooling? Then what to do with the R12? It's illegal to vent i…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
I have a '75 280, stock in every way. While driving it today in 80-ish temperatures, and decelerating off the interstate after a 10-mile trip, it suddenly lost power, missed a bit, then surged, then did the same thing again, and again, and again. ... no power, then miss, then surge. I limped home in this fashion (about 1 mile). I would appreciate any diagnostic help you can provide. I've just started driving the car again after parking it for winter in the garage, but it has run fine for the 100 or so miles I've put on it in the last week. I have had the car for about one year, and know little about its past. I have not changed with fuel filter (it has, according to the o…
Last reply by 2Forty,
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