Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 9 replies
- 4.3k views
Okay guys, i'm getting tired and can't think straight-as well as second guessing myself. The rear main seal gets installed with the flat part(face) of the seal facing me or the other way around. I am second guessing myself since I have had two leak. I just installed a speedi sleeve for a new surface on the crank, but now I have somehow got myself confused as which direction the seal faces. God I'm getting old I guess
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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- 11 replies
- 10.9k views
Hi read some old posts but could not find where to buy a new sending unit can any one give me a web site thanks
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 11 replies
- 11.6k views
I have a 78 280z and I get no power to the A/C compressor when I turn the A/C knob on. The last owner said that it worked but didn't blow very cold air and thought that the system needed charging. Took the car in for service and the mechanic said that he couldn't get the compressor to kick on - no power. Not very familiar with A/C systems thought I would ask for things to look for in trouble shooting this problem. Trying to get this solved before the good ole Southern heat kicks in. Also, does anyone know of a good shop in Birmingham, AL that may be able to help? Thanks!!
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 0 replies
- 983 views
Hello, I need some help from 'Down Under'. I need help getting my hands on some small electrical connectors from a company in Sydney, Australia. Problem is that they will not ship to America. Here is what I am trying to do. I want to use these 8mm Fusible Link connectors to make a "Fused Link" with so I can use modern blade fuses on my '78 280z (This is part of my Fusible Link solution which I will post about later...). Anyway, I cannot find the 8mm connectors very easily (AT ALL) here in the US, but I did find them at Larrikin Products in Sydney. Here is the link...http://www.larpro.com.au/larpro/product/1695. So if there is a willing Zed-Head in Australia that ca…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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Sadly, I travel too much and cannot do this myself. My wife of 28 years learned to drive on this 78 1/2 280Z back in '78, making us the original owners. This car originated in Northern Ca and has been with us in S Fl since 1985. We have used it nonstop for many years, but it has been a third car that sees much less use the last 5-8 years. Lots of rust (DUH) but otherwise still great car! Can anyone recommend an honest, reliable, knowledgeable garage/restorer in my neck of the woods who won't want to finance several college educations on my back? I would love to bring it back to (almost) new condition, but I'm NOT looking to enter it in the Concourse D'Elegance!
Last reply by abstaub, -
- 10 replies
- 4.8k views
What is the best way to add Seam Foam to my stock dual SU carbs?
Last reply by black gold man, -
- 5 replies
- 1.2k views
I have just finished repainting under the hood of my 240. I painted over the 3 nuts on top of the strut towers. I have purchased new nuts to replace them. My question is; can I simply remove the old nuts and replace them, (assuming I do not move the car),..or will that throw something out of wack?? Also,...the best I can find on line,...the torque for these nuts should be 18 to 25 foot lbs. Does that sound correct?
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 5 replies
- 1.9k views
I just got 2- 74' 260Z 2+2's. one had a wore out l24 with the e31 head. I kept my '80 280zx after getting t-boned by a Suburban. so I am in the process of putting the l28 into the 260z. motor is in, headers on, triple Webers on, electric fuel pump added. here is my first of probably many bumps in the road to figure out. The distributors. I was hoping that eliminating the zx injection and using the Webers I could use the dis. that was in the car and not have to change wires and stuff.... rolled the motor up to TDC compression and placed the dist. in. It does not line up the rotor with the #1 plug. can I drop the oil pump ,rotate it a tooth and get it to line up and be ok …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 13 replies
- 4.3k views
Hi from a newbie, I just bought an orange 7/71 240 out of CA from the original owner. It has 146,000 on it and has a little of the usual rust in front fenders and a few rust bubbles on the rear wheel wells, still very presentable and runs well with a pretty nice interior. The car still has all the smog equipment on it and has air conditioning that doesn’t currently work. Back in high school between 1977 and 1979 I owned 4 different Z’s, one 71, two 73’s and one 74 . Loved the cars then, and finally bought another 33 years later. I have a couple questions that I hope someone can help with. 1.) The top heater control lever (OFF – VENT – HEAT) currently doesn…
Last reply by GreenZZZ, -
- 3 replies
- 1.4k views
I'm trying to order new heater hoses for my 260 can anyone tell me the lengths and diameter of the hoses? I'm at work and can't get to the car.
Last reply by bounce, -
- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
I swapped the engine in my '77 a while back for another '77 280Z(both are CA cars) and kept the original ECU and wiring harness. After figuring out a few things I was able to start the car. When I want to start it I have to have the distributor centered(screw in the center) but when it starts, it idles at 1500+ rpm. I've turned the idle screw all the way down, and that doesn't help much. If I retard the timing 100% then it goes down to 900-1000 rpm idle, but if I turn the engine off and try to start it, it won't start. I've tried leaving the idle high to see if it still kills itself after a few minutes just like if I retard the timing 100%(still runs for a few minutes, th…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 11 replies
- 4.3k views
the car vibrates pretty rough when Im going above 65. I was wondering if maybe my tires are unbalanced. Im not hearing any grinding sounds or anything so hopefully its just that. What are some other causes for vibration? bad struts?? bad transmission mount??
Last reply by grannyknot,
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