Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 2.4k views
My 73 Z came to me w/o a speedometer cable. I have one to install but am not sure of the routing. Not sure how to bring it up to firewall from transmission and thru which firewall hole it passes to reach the speedometer. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Bill
Last reply by cochrwi, -
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- 2 replies
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Whenever the car accelerates it will bog down and then pick up a few secounds after. I can hold the gas in a steady position and it will bog down then pick up. Also whenever i get to around 4g rpms it will struggle to continue further. Any help will be appreciated.
Last reply by grantf, -
- 8 replies
- 1.4k views
I bought the car recently and replaced the coil, plugs, wires, battery terminals. The car is getting spark and fuel. If i hold the key on the start position(where the starter is turning the motor) it will rev up and seem to run. But whenever i release the key and let it go to the run position, the car shuts off. I have no idea what it can be, mabye the ignition or something electrical. Anyones advice will be greatley appreciated.
Last reply by The moist shaft, -
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I have a 77 280z w/fuel injection. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter, plugs, TPS, blew out all fuel lines, new injectors, new fuel hoses, cleaned out fuel tank. It idles great but bogs out when give it gas. I cannot figure this thing out! It is not drivable but idles killer. Does anyone have a clue what it could be??? I am at my wits end with this car!!! HELP
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 14 replies
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Unfortunately, Courtesy Nissan has listed many of the parts I need as NLA. Several websites, such as NissanPartsZone.com, g35parts.com, and a couple of others appear to have most of the parts available. An example part is the battery inspection lid, 63200-E4102. I don't want to place a large order and be disappointed. I would appreciate any comments or recommendations.
Last reply by ironhelix, -
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The background: My 72 240z 4-speed with a transplanted 2.4 liter from a Z car with an automatic (based on distributor points replacement in a previous adventure). The car has been running rougher and rougher and now will eventually start and idle up to 800 rpm, any attempt to rev the engine (warm or cold) and the engine bucks and air\fuel backfires out the firewall side of the front SU 3 screw carb. It appears to me that the gasket is gone but I can't find the darn part #, can someone lead me into the light or part store or give me a link to order this part? Picture attached. Thank you in advance.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 14 replies
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After installing a MSA 6-1 header I am having problems getting the car started. When the engine is cranking, if I give the car some throttle a hear this strange clicking sound(my wife says it sounds like a woodpecker).It only occurs when the trottle is depressed. The engine is not starting quickly but i did get it to fire a couple of times and it ran very rough.I'm nervous about continuing to try and start it because of the noise. It does not make the noise if the choke is engaged without throotle input. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. Car is stock 71 240
Last reply by olzed, -
- 11 replies
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I was browsing under my car and noticed one of the rear control arm bolts was missing, looked on google and here trying to find the dimenstions of the bolt but couldent find it. does any one know the specs?
Last reply by cbuczesk, -
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I recently rebuilt the engine in my 1971 240Z. The relevant parts: L28 N42 block L24 E88 head (earliest "notched' chamber design) Overbore of 0.030" F54-type flat-top pistons from ITM Isky Racing Stage 2 cam (.480 lift, 280 duration, 232 @ .050 lift duration) New Schneider performance valve springs and hats New rocker arms and lash pads New oil pump for 81 ZX turbo engine As part of the machining the head got a valve job (head already had steel valve seats retro-fitted) and new valve guides. I'm running 91 octane gas (highest we have here in Utah; high altitude) and Valvoline VR1 racing oil. The new camshaft is internally oiled and I installed a new spray bar made for me …
Last reply by PastorMike, -
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,,do I need to remove the dive shaft ?? ,,,, 300 miles ?
Last reply by clayton 260z, -
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Quick ?: On a 73 240, how does the Hazard knob (the part you pull on to activate the Hazard lights) separate from the rest of the Hazard switch? I've got a switch still attached to the metal support structure and I want to remove it so I can fit a new dash skin over the metal support... The opening in the new skin that corresponds to the Hazard switch is of a smaller diameter than the knob itself of course... ideas? Is it just pushed on? I've pulled a little but it did not budge... pull harder? thanks, -e
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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- 1.1k views
I've been working on my 280zx for quite some time now, off and on whenever i can spare the money, after replacing the fuel pump,starter, fuel injectors, fuel filters, clutch and a new timing chain, the car will start and idle fairly well. however whenever i get it going it will begin to hesitate and "nosedive" once it reaches operating temp. and the rpms hit around 2.5. i'm not trying to break any land speed records i would just like it to operate as it should. i'm at a loss as to why it is doing this and would greatly appreciate any help. my cousin believes it is the synchronizer but i do not know much about the inner workings of the transmission so i have no idea... an…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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