Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
-
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
i was on a drive about a hour and a half out of where i live and when i started to drive agine i get this klunk in the rear pass side. i just did a rear brake job and did what the book said to the T and now after a long drive i have a vibration and a sort of klunk in the rear end. o dose any body live in the killeen/fort hood area?
Last reply by darom, -
-
- 23 replies
- 17.8k views
Can anyone tell me what the purpose of the "water temp switch" does? The water temp switch that threads into the thrmostat housing. See picture attached of switch, it is the switch on the top right in the pic.
Last reply by Zedrally, -
- 13 replies
- 2.1k views
Sitting at a stop light last night and the engine stops running, it will not restart despite turning over fine. Car 71 240z engine L28 round top ztherapy su's Electronic Z distributor w/E12-80 ignition module Upgraded alternator with internal voltage regulator electric fuel pump 5 speed Car was running fine, alternator charges appropriately and has plenty of gas, I am getting no spark to the plugs. Last night I swapped in my 2 separate e12 modules (kept in car as spares) did not work, had car towed home. Today I checked the fuel pump it is working and the carbs are getting gas - no spark at plugs. Here's what else I have done so far: Swapped coils with a known good one ou…
Last reply by c6fan, -
- 12 replies
- 4.3k views
Does anyone know where i can buy a set of retaining shims and dust boot for the '73-'76 style wheel cylinders?
Last reply by Dobber, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
Fellow Z'ers. Does the clutch release bearing setting need to be adjusted with clutch wear or does it only need to be checked and adjusted when a new clutch is installed? Chris
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 5 replies
- 10.9k views
I recently pulled my engine & tranny to do a rebuild due to a cracked head. Upon close inspection of the cylinder walls i found a slight groove in the #4 cylinder. My Questions is..... Should i take the block to be bored or will honing correct this issue? The engine turns smoothly and does not seem to be catching on anything.
Last reply by awolfe, -
- 10 replies
- 3.8k views
My car suddenly has stopped charging. I've put 2 new alternators in it and its still only reading 12.5v at the battery when on and 12.5v when off. I've followed all the walk throughs multiple times and its still not getting me any where. The car is a 1970 240z, whats tripping me up is my voltage reg. only has 5 wires going to it, not 6. Is that whats causing my issue? Using that picture my #5 connector is seeing like 16v and #4 is seeing right at ~11.9. My #1 wire on that diagram is MIA, the harness didnt even have a spade for it. Is that whats tripping me up?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 28 replies
- 7.4k views
So a while back a piece of the wheel cylinder failed and broke off inside the drum damaging everything during a short drive. Now, I replaced the drum(scoring), wheel cylinder(broken and leaking fluid), hard lines(nut stripped) and brake shoes. After endlessly bleeding the brakes with my brother helping, I still can not get them to bleed. The front are fine, perfect in fact, but the rear is like it has air no matter how much I bleed it. When pressing the pedal while driving I usually have to pump 2 or 3 times before it catches and it normally just goes to the floor with the brake light in the dash coming on if I don't pump it. The car stops fine after that, but feels like …
Last reply by busted240, -
- 2 replies
- 1.4k views
First of all, I recently purchased a 74 260z from a gentleman, the car is everything i've wanted in a Z car, with the exception of a running engine. I've read up TONS of "Search button" topics, and looked all through diagrams of these darn carbs but cannot seem to figure the damn things out. The carbs that are on the car are a set of 3 screw bottle top SU's, im assuming late model 72's that the gentleman put on there, when i bought the car, he said i could fill the bowls of the carbs up with gas and it'd run like a champ and that it had only sat up for long enough for the gas to go slightly bad, but the fuel pump wasn't kicking on, so what i did was after purchasing said…
Last reply by d240zx2, -
- 3 replies
- 2.3k views
I have been trying diligently to fix my AC/Heat system. After reading many many posts I began to realize that something was wrong with the vacuum system in it. I started under the dash traceing the vacuum lines and I found that there was a major crack where the vacuum line goes in to the magnetic switches. This allowed the water ****, the outsite air and the mode door vacuum switches to function. I am left with one minor issue with it. When I go from AC towards defrost everything moves and doors open and close just fine. But when I do the opposite going from Defrost Hot to AC cold the mode door will not drop down to close the heating unit and redirect the air back out…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 9 replies
- 1.6k views
Hello guys, In the past couple of days (since it has become cold here) my Z is having a hell of a time starting, that is, it cranks for a long as hell time, (i usually do 3-5 second bursts, takes a few of these to get it done) when it finally does it runs at really low RPMs and when I try to accelerate I get a lean condition and prefiring (backfiring in the intake). Things I have done 1. New cold start valve from autoparts store (green stripped one, not sure if that tell anyone anything) 2. New Thermotime switch (along with the temp sensors) 3. Cleaned all terminals. Any ideas? Could I have a defective CSV? Does the AFM do anything in the starting procedure? I'm at a …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 8 replies
- 3.2k views
Hey all, So I'm a bit new to working on cars, done a little work here and there but am still pretty much an amateur when it comes to this stuff, so any help would be greatly appreciated! I have a 1978 280z, did a tranny swap and made it a manual a few months back, but lately I've had a few problems with the ignition. It usually does one of the following: 1. Start right up. 2. Start up and slowly whines and dies. 3. Turn the key and it clicks (under the dash, I believe it's the relay) and then there's a second click somewhere from the engine and it either starts or it doesnt. 4. Turn the key and the relay just clicks. As of a today, it's only clicking (#4.) A friend sugge…
Last reply by Zed Head,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
