Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 2.7k views
Okay, im planning to change my Z to look more Euro for obvious reasons. I tried to remove bumper bolts from the bumper itself, firstly it seem to go okay but then SNAP and the screw went to 2 pieces. Am i "screwed" now? Cause it looks like those screws are attached to bumper and tightened by bolts. If they are, is there any way to redo that broken screw..? still got 3 other screws intact plus 2 on the sides, which came from fenders.
Last reply by boro92, -
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- 9 replies
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Recently I picked up an early 260z, it runs and drives great, but lately i have been having an issue with the transmission. My problem is the transmission is hard to get into first gear and has started grinding when shifting into reverse. I drained and replaced the transmissions gear lube two days ago when I bought the car. Is this a common problem with the Z cars? And what should I be looking for to remedy this issue! Thanks
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 5 replies
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The good news is i can drive the car now that i changed the master/slave clutch cylinder so shifting works. The bad news is there is some white smoke on top of the engine for about a minute after i turn off the engine, could this be caused by the dirt on top of my engine? it hasnt been cleaned since I bought it and I don't know what to use because I dont want water getting into places it shouldnt be. Also after I ran the engine and turned it off i heard a very faint dripping sound about every 3-5 seconds, sounded near the bottom of the engine/exhaust manifold side, but there was nothing on the ground. When i let it idle there was no smoke but when i put it in reverse to d…
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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my 260z will start and turn over a few times but then dies. if i spray carb cleaner it will run longer but die once all is burnt up. i believe that during start up it only uses the mechanical pump, and the electrical pump kicks in during higher revs. The mechanical fuel pump is filled with gas and the carb floats are wet but not full with gas. i checked the carb and E/pump filters and cleaned them. the electrical fuel pump reads about 6.8 ohms and is getting voltage. The only strange thing i have found is there are 30.3 ohms of resistance from the positive side of the fuel sender to chases ground. Any ideas why i cant get the fuel to run? i dont think its the electric pum…
Last reply by killerzombie, -
- 19 replies
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I seem to have all connections made to the body harness and all electrics seem to work in the back: - passenger door switch - room lamp - all tail lights/turn/rev/4way flashers (except brake light which I will chase down today) - license lamp - marker lights - speaker - power antenna - defrost - fuel sender So I am wondering what the 3 unused wires in the body harness do? One is red and seems to be a loner with a long-ago broken off connector The other two (which seem to be paired) have the bullet connectors (one is black and the other is red or red with a black stripe..I forget exactly). The only two single wire connectors that I connected to the body harness were a gre…
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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first, I have downloaded the EFI PDF file and looked it over. I have done all of the no start troubleshooting I could until it instructed me to plug in another ECU and give that a try. A pulse is evident from coil to ECU I get an 11 volt signal to each injector terminal (in other words, no ground signal) I plug use my LED test light, which has green and red LEDs, red for power and green for ground and i get a pulse in that case not when an incandescent bulb is plugged into the injector plug. I have consistent fuel pressure, spark and compression is normal. I have used artificial fuel to confirm this along with the conventional methods I have tested all circuitry coming f…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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Here's my story. Sorry it's a bit long. I've had a 1978 280Z for just over two years now, and it's always been a work in progress. At first, it ran super rich. I found some of the injectors were leaking, so I replaced all of them. Then I found the cold start valve was leaking, so I replaced that too, but then discovered the thermotime switch was also bad, and was leaving the cold start open. I decided to just unplug the cold start connector as a temporary fix (before, when the valve was leaking, unplugging the connector didn't change anything). I figured as a Southern California car, it wouldn't really need it anyway. I also replaced the air flow meter, and it finally s…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 11 replies
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Recently, I found than only the inner left front fender well was stained with coolant from the frame rail up to the vent duct connecting to the radiator support. At first, I thought that it was one of the hose from the transmission cooler that was the problem but it is not the case. For sure, this streak of coolant is shot from the fan but it is impossible to find from where it is coming. Here is what has been checked: -The upper and lower radiator hose......they are new from last year and tight. -The water pump..........replaced last year. -The radiator........doesn't leak and has been replaced by a brand new one two years ago. Top and bottom tank are dry (copper radiato…
Last reply by richard1, -
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Down to the wire (pun). So far I have figured out where all wires go from the wiring diagrams, colour coding, fsm drawings and support from this forum (thanks). I am down to 3 that I am not 100% positive about. The dash harness to the fuse box has 2 blue wires with in-line fuses and one black wire. All are heavier gauge: 1) One of the fuse holders is toasted looking. It also exits lower in the harness and it also has a black protective sheath around it. Am I correct to assume that it goes to the blower motor harness or defrost? 2) The other blue wire comes out ~ 3" higher in the harness (near the taped back fuel pump connector) but I am not sure what it does?…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 8 replies
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I'm beginning to reassemble my 240Z ground-up restoration. I have two dashes, and both have the amount of dead-end wires, taped-together fixtures, splices, etc. you might expect on a 40 year old car. With visions of spending hours at a time on my back under the dash once the car looks otherewise ready to run, trying to figure why things don't work, I am weighing the benefits of buying a whole new harness. I've found two suppliers: www.keepitcleanwiring.com, and www.new-datsun-parts.com/240Z I'd be very interested in hearing the thoughts of others who have been where I am right now, and also learning of experiences with the two suppliers mentione above. Many thanks.
Last reply by Arne, -
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Hello, My first major work on the car and I'm having trouble identifying the head. I noticed the car had a rebuilt engine since there was a tag saying so on the block. Attached is a few pictures. One of the head and another of the intake manifold. There is a N42 stamp on it but looking at other pictures of an N42 head this one appears to be different. HELP?! I don't want to purchase the wrong headers. As you can tell this looks way different than the pics on this auction item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-N42-Cylinder-Head-/400244055278?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d30679cee Last, I included a few pics o…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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mass air flow wires to fuel pump missing (1978) did the 1978 turn on fuel in run possition differently, the 1978 electricle schematic shows these wires missing and says (useless) Other schematics, (the color one) show these wires going to fuel pump, ???? Thanks Always Zdonka zdonka@yahoo.com
Last reply by black gold man,
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