Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
- 2.4k views
Hello all This past weekend I installed my new exhaust on the Z. I used the stock header and MSA premium exhaust. The install went well, took forever but well. When I got the Z back and running it feels like it looses a lot of power between 2500-3500 rpm. It has for-firing occasionally (ignition in the intake). From all this I want to say that the car is running lean? Has anyone had this issue when installing new exhaust? Would the fix be as easy as riching the mixture up a tad or is there more behind this that I don't know about? Thanks all Jan
Last reply by superlen, -
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- 12 replies
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I posted a WTB in the Classified- not much confidence, since the form to be filled out is for items offered FS. Back story is that a young woman side-swiped our car while pulling into a parking space in front of us. Parallel, street parking. She went in nose first, catching the left end front bumper with her right rear tire. :stupid: Thank the stars there was no damage to the body work, parking lamp, etc. The bumper is higher by a 1/2 inch or so. Hopefully, the mount/shock isn't bent. Maybe it can be re-positioned. Bumper could be torqued. Either part is more available than the the rubber piece- which is shredded! :mad: Perhaps someone who has done a bumper mod or a dono…
Last reply by black gold man, -
- 6 replies
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Just finished installing new rear struts and bushings. I'm looking at painting the rear brake drums and am wondering if I should use high temp paint or just a good rust preventative spray paint? I know that the brakes can get hot, but is it hot enough to cause regular spray paint burn? Thanks for any help. 1978 280Z coupe.
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 69 replies
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hey guys, baught this 280 from a lady who baught it off the lot in 77. one owner, she "drove it till it stopped running." well its running now. but im kinda goin nuts on what the deal is now put it in gear and accelerate and it doesnt run right. backfires (through the intake) and doesnt want to rev past 3000. thought it was the coolant temperature sensor. orderd a new one that wasnt it... ive lurked around threads to try and find the problem. no luck yet. figured ide ask the pros and see what kind of help i could get in resolving my running problems. thanks Brento
Last reply by garretthes, -
- 9 replies
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I recently removed the head from my '77 280z because of a leaking head gasket. After reading the post "Check head for cracks" http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/h...head/index.htm, i decided to further inspect the head and found two cracks on cylinder 3 & 4. Basically, what i'm asking is...What are my options with this issue? Time to replace the head? Thanks in advance for any advice!
Last reply by az240z, -
- 2 replies
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Well, my 1978 280z is finally on the road, the question that I have is, my ac works but it just doesnt cool enough, I put a thermometer on the vents and it reads at 55, and since its around 105 here in Texas, its just not cold enough. The question is how much r-12 freon goes in the original ac compressor. Or how much pressure should my ac gauge be at, at the lower side and the high side? Thanks.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 1 reply
- 1k views
I am finally putting together the interior of my late 73 240 and cannot fine one part of the seatbelt. I have put a picture of the part from the driver’s side (left side) but need the one from the passenger side (right side). Does anyone have one they can sell me?
Last reply by philbar73, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
I have a piston with the top two rings seized. These were new ( rings and pistons ) when the p.o. put the motor in storage. when I bought it, I oiled all the cylinders several times over the last 6 months and all but these two rings came out ok.. I have tried all the obvious, soaked in Sea spray for three days, tapped on rings, put it in a pot of boiling water for 5 min., tapped on rings and they just won't let loose. Has anyone got a wild card out there?
Last reply by Dobber, -
- 8 replies
- 2.3k views
When i put the car in the reverse it doenst shift smoothly,the gear make a crackeling sound i am able to shift all other gear with no problem.Do i need to adjust the clutch??any one who as had the same problem please let me know ,it will be great. Thank you sergio
Last reply by bluezcrazy, -
- 14 replies
- 2k views
I'm making a new thread because this is a separate question, on my 78 280z i have removed the old fuel rail and replaced it with a much nicer one. The current fuel line setup is this, Tank -> Filter -> FPR in-> FPR out-> FUEL RAIL -> block off plate I have the return line routed with the vacuum line intact. Cold start removed Problem 1 of 2 When driving the car takes off very sluggish now, i don't think i have any vacuum leaks and the EGR system has been completely blocked off. I have one line going to the TB and one line going to the FPR, and finally brake booster. As for the emissions stuff on top of the manifold i have retained the idle air flow reg…
Last reply by robftw, -
- 10 replies
- 2k views
My 73 Z recently started to sputter and stall when accelerating from a stop. Over 10 mph its fine and it idles fine just on the initial stepping of the gas from a light or stop sign. I believe it has the 71 or 72 carbs, definitely not 73's. I have had the car for 5 years and have not touched the carbs since I have no idea how to do anything with them. Do you think they need to be rebuilt (assuming it’s a carb problem)? Any recommendations? I have seen that Z therapy is mentioned in high regard but do I have to buy a new set or will they fix mine?
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 10 replies
- 35.5k views
Car is a 1971 240Z with stock components. Once I drive the car for about 10 minutes and it warms up, the brakes start to drag and continually get worse. If continuing to drive, it gets to the point where the brakes drag so much that the car is unable to drive. The front and the rear brakes both drag. Once this occurs, I stop the car and bleed both the front and rear bleeders on the master cylinder. Fluid comes out. The brakes then work fine and I can continue to drive without the brakes dragging. If I stop driving the car for multiple hours and let it cool down, I have to do bleed the master cylinder again once the car warms up. I have spent hours and hours on this …
Last reply by robftw,
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