Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Hope I am posting this in the right place I am looking for a source for 240 z pistons for my 72 anyone know where I can find them?
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
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- 0 replies
- 858 views
Hey, guys finally I have gotten my 1978 280z inspected and registered, now i 'm driving the car to work. Well, the problem that I have is that when I first start the car up it smells like to much gas is burning, the car won't shut down but the smell is pretty strong, The car has new NGK spark plugs that are gapped at 40, new spark plug wires, coil and distrubitor cap and also a water temp sensor. I have messed with the screw thats on top of the AFM, but it stills smells like gas. Once the car is warm it doesn't do as much but when I start to drive it I noticed that the smell is there when I let my foot of the accelarator the smell becomes stronger but when im just crusing…
Last reply by dcruz, -
- 9 replies
- 2.5k views
Ok, so this is a 73 240z with round top carbs. The car had been sitting for a while and was not ran during that time. I did a few things before trying to start her but no matter what she will not start. The car does turn over, even with ether sprayed directly into the carbs it won't run, although it does pop a little with the ether in there. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and rotor inside the cap. Distributor and cap look good. Verified spark on every plug. Replaced lines from fuel pump since they were cracking and old, verified fuel is getting directly into the carbs. Replaced all vacuum hoses with new ones, no leaks in sight. Also rebuilt the carbs after soaking the…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
- 11 replies
- 10.3k views
Hi, I have a 72 240Z that I recently acquired. The turn signals worked at the time. The hazards worked as well. The hazards still work but the turn signal, neither left nor right, works. All of the fuses are fine. What needs to be fixed? Thanks. John
Last reply by Earthcruiser, -
- 13 replies
- 2.5k views
Hello all, Just bought a 71 240 and when the PO was getting it ready for the shipping truck it wouldn't start so now it's sitting on the side of the road in my neighborhood with it's pristine uncracked dash I managed to get it to attempt to crank twice last night during hours of tinkering. Got the battery tested and it shows 12.6 volts, or so the guy at auto zone said. With the ignition switch at the ON position all the lights come on with a little coaxing and when I try to start it all I hear is a click from the right side of the passenger floor board. I also did clean up some corroded wire splicing going from the starter into the cabin as well. I don't know anything a…
Last reply by jay-71, -
- 1 reply
- 1k views
Took off the carburetors and dismantled them. I soaked all parts in gas to clean them. The next morning I scrubbed each part and dried it thoroughly. I reassembled with new gaskets and new jets. Unfortunately I overtightened the front carb jet and broke it off inside the threading. I was able to drill out the brass remains of the new jet (mostly) and fit a new jet in, but it’s tilted just a little. I reinstalled the carbs, hooked everything back up and “no goâ€�. The only way I can get the car running is by literally blowing gas from the float chamber into the carbs and having the throttle speed screws all the way screwed in. The car starts and revs way too hig…
Last reply by 71Nissan240Z, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
The plastic block that holds the horn contact on the steering column has broken. Can someone help me find a replacement part? I have a late 1973 240Z.
Last reply by philbar73, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
I am putting my '70 240 back together and I can't figure out the fan blower switch sub-harness wiring. I know where each of the three plugs go, but where do the red, blue and black individual wires go? The red is hot as soon as the ignition is "on." The blue and black go hot when I turn the blower switch on.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
Would anyone know off hand what the torque value is for the cam tower bolts?
Last reply by Dobber, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
Would anyone happen to know the correct torque value for the anckor bolt that scews into the head and the pivot post screws into it? They were tight enough to require a cheater bar to undo.
Last reply by Dobber, -
- 10 replies
- 2.9k views
While my dash is out and all the other wiring is fully exposed, I am trying to follow EScanlon's tech post on adding fog lights to a early Z - link below. I want to have this in place should I later decide to hang a set of fog or driving lights on the front. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?23465-Wiring-Fog-Lights-on-the-Early-Z I found the red and black pairs at the front of the car. I also found the green and black/white fuel pump pair and connector he referenced in the dash harness. That is the end of the "finds"! There is no sign of a red and green/white pair with a connector. All of my dash wiring is fully accounted for, no orphans in sight. …
Last reply by 240dkw, -
- 3 replies
- 2.9k views
Hi guys, I converted my electrically operated EGR switch solenoid on my 76 to the 78 EGR control valve (1978 FSM, EC-11) which is temperature operated. This allowed me to get rid of the potential battery drain condition in the future (after my alternator had been upgraded to the internal voltage unit, the solenoid was constantly energized). The 78 EGR control valve is installed in the aluminum block which is located under the air regulator. The problem is the temperature in that block doesn't get more than 52-55C. I tested it with my laser thermometer. The valve doesn't open, thus it doesn't allow the vacuum to operate my EGR valve. I tested the valve in the pot, and it…
Last reply by darom,
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