Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 17 replies
- 9.7k views
Hey all, My 76 280z is currently a wiring hack job, And im requesting a picture of where the red and green dizzy wires go. (im assuming this connects to the terminal block bolted next to the coil?) Next i need to know how the coil is supposed to be wired to the ballast resistor, specifically the 2 connectors where the condenser connects, i don't know where the 2nd wire goes I understand these all lead to the ignition block, but i cant figure out how they attach in the engine bay chassis wiring
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 5 replies
- 2.5k views
I have a 72. Just fitted the hood after some paint work. It went on in the same position that it was. The hood is sitting higher at the front than it did before, or it seems to be. Is there a way to lower it? I can push it lower, but the torque springs push it up again. It is sitting about half an inch too high. If I slot the bolt holes will I gain some adjustment? Thanks Brian.
Last reply by olzed, -
- 5 replies
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My son is on a roadtrip with the 260. He is in Fresno now and the fan clutch exploded and took out the waterpump and the radiator near the top tank. He got a new pump,clutch and belt on and now it blew all the coolant . From what he tells me the fan got into the top of the rad. Anyone near there got a rad. they would sell or know of a good rad. shop. ?? His smartphone died also making it hard to find stuff Thanks for any help. Dave
Last reply by torker, -
- 17 replies
- 2.6k views
I noticed my valve cover is leaking, so I'm going to replace the gasket. While I have the cover off, I'd like to polish it or paint it. First of all, if I decide to go "original", how do I get there? I assume there's some chemical you use to treat aluminum (its aluminum, right?), if you have experience with a good one, please educate me. I'm also contemplating going with a flat black and leaving the lettering shiny. Or a powder coat black. If I go that direction, is it just a matter of sandblasting and painting? How do I polish the lettering so its shiny? I searched the site but couldn't find anything. Maybe I suck at searching - has this been written up before? …
Last reply by Love my 72 240Z, -
- 16 replies
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Hey Fella's, Took the 240 out today and she was running great for a while, however as the day progressed I noticed that once I hit 4,000 rpm's it wanted to bog down and not give me all she had. Below 4k rpm's it seems fine (although maybe not pulling as strong as it should). Would this be a symptom of being to rich or lean? It ran like this once before and my mechanic said he adjusted the carbs but not sure if he meant he adjusted for lean or rich (and he is long gone). Thanks, Randy
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
- 7 replies
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Okay, I have a clunk from left rear suspension, I have removed strut assembly from car except for the transverse link , and removed spring. The strut cartridge can be moved slightly side to side by hand, which makes a small thunking sound, cannot move it up and down by hand, could this be the problem? The gland nut has a few threads showing. The nut is round with 2 notches cut in the top, I assume there is a special wrench to tighten this,anyone know what its called and where to acquire one? Any thoughts on if a slight side to side movement could cause the problem? Thanks for any advice!
Last reply by northernz, -
- 10 replies
- 11.8k views
Whats the black fusible links amperage on the battery? I'm just going to get a car audio fuse block for this, i cant find it in the FSM or my haynes manual
Last reply by FastWoman, -
I have a pair of Z Therapy carbs on my 240Z. These carbs worked perfectly until I took them off to rebuild my engine (2.4l to 3.0l, same head). Since I reinstalled them on the new engine the float on the front carb seems to be sticking. I followed the cleaning and alignment procedure in the Z Therapy DVD 3 times over and still the same result. The carbs are clean inside and out and seem to align fine in the garage. The slides move up and down and return to the base of the carbs with a nice mechanical clank. Both slides fall at the same rate and the carbs are synced at both idle and 3000 RPM. The car runs great 90% of the time. Strong idle, excellent throttle respo…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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- 2.3k views
We've taken off the hot water heat for the intake manifold. Do I need to plug the old holes where the water tubes were in the manifold? I'm thinking I don't but I could use some re-assurance!
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 8 replies
- 2.9k views
My 73 240 was having trouble starting so I purchased an MSD coil 2 for the Z car and the car fires right up. Then moments later the gauges did not work and all my exterior lights stopped working and here I am scratching my head. Everything worked before MSD 2 coil accpet the car did not start, the speedo and rpm gauges still work but just the electrical related stuff seems to have just fried. I did not see any blown fuses either What do you think the cause is? What is the first step to making it all work again?
Last reply by jackneuf, -
I bought a 240z with a 280Z engine. It came with a points style dizzy. This plate is warped and not letting the dizzy sit correctly on the dizzy shaft. Where can I buy one? Substitute another part? ANYTHING!!! The weekend is almost upon us and my Z is dead. Does MSA have this part? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Travel'n Man, -
- 0 replies
- 767 views
I just got our 260Z 2+2 running that we got from a junkyard however I need a timing cover and headers. Right now she sputters and backfires on accel trying to get up the driveway. I suspect the timing is retarded but the brake booster seems weak and that is rebuilt for a 280Z 10 inch diameter. When we fired her up she was at 1400 rpm with steady 17 inches of vacuum I got her down to 1000 than 800 and the vacuum fluctuates between 14 anf 15 slightly at idle. Could my timing be off a tooth or two causing this?
Last reply by desertmonkey,
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