Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Hello fellow z owners. I hope I can get some insight to a question I have. I pulled my 240z gas tank to inspect the internals and clean it a little. When I pulled the rubber hose off the fuel feed line, I noticed some movement in the metal feed line on the tank. Is this normal and supposed to slightly swivel? The return line does not move in the same manner. IMG_7244.MOV
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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- 5 followers
- 14 replies
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When I recently built up the new motor which now has 300 miles and running well. I somehow missed the plug in the oil filter boss which normally has the spring loaded bypass valve. I changed the breakin oil / filter the other day and noticed it. I must be getting older.... I know it is important should the flow become blocked thru the filter to not let the motor starve for oil. My question is, can I safely drill out what appears to be a plug,then pull it out with something, mabe use a magnet and vacuum to not let any metal chips get ingested and replace it with a new bypass valve? Its a F54 block that was originally set up for a turbo if that makes any differ…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 36 replies
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Here are some pics of two holes on the bottom of what I refer to is the frame rail. Please school me if I’m referring to the wrong area. Both are on the left side in the middle of the rail. You’ll notice the steel horizontal plate between the two areas which will give you an idea of the location. The sides of the rail are solid along with the rest of the frame rail. Suggestions please. I have the transmission and exhaust removed so now would be a good time to fix this problem. The rest of the undercarriage from what I can see is in good shape. This is a 280Z . Multiple pictures of the same two locations. Larger diameter hole is 5” long. The other 4”
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 941 views
Tough one here has me scratching my head. As always, thanks in advance to the group for helping think through the issues. Full tune-up and carb balance completed. Based on my cam, the car likes to sit at idle at 900-1000 RPM. Holds this idle while in the garage. After driving for a bit, starts to lose idle at stop lights. Will drop down to 600-700 RPM, which is rough given how lumpy my cam is. Maintains idle in the range, does not fall further or stall. No other loss of power or performance issues. Plugs, wires, etc. in good shape. Any ideas?
Last reply by AK260, -
- 5 followers
- 13 replies
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Hi guys, I noticed yesterday a periodic gasoline (not exhaust) smell in the cabin while driving with the windows down. With the windows up, the smell disappears. I opened the hood while the car was running and didn't smell any gasoline then got under the car near the fuel pump and didn't smell it there either. I thought it could be the vapor tank hoses but if that was the case, I'd smell it in the cabin all the time I'd think. I can only smell it while driving with the windows down. Any ideas? EDIT: I started it and sniffed all over the engine bay and it seems to be coming from the passenger side firewall area (near the battery). I'm …
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 959 views
I know questions regarding Z antenna have been asked before but I've not seen any answers for my problem yet. My antenna motor works fine but the mast wouldn't work due to a broken mast line. I located similar sized mono filament trimmer line and tried replacing the original plastic/nylon cable. The issue is reconnecting the top antenna portion to the new cable. I've tried recreating the original connection (a round metal collar) but noting I've tried clamps well enough to not come loose. Also, the diameter has to be small enough to be pulled into the top portion of the antenna. I'd hate to toss an otherwise good unit and buy a non original replacement but I can't…
Last reply by LongliveZED, -
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Have a 9/70 240Z with a blown fuse link and no power at red-white at ignition. This happened last fall before car storage, so I have researched over the winter and have worked on the problem for many days. Test 1: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from fuse link connection to solenoid while key turned to start. Had spark when jumper wire touched solenoid. Solenoid appeared to engage a little. Same test/result we had last October. Test 2: Everything still connected, except fuse link. Ran jumper from solenoid to positive battery terminal, but had no response. Test 3: Same as #2, but disconnected positive battery connection f…
Last reply by ZNate, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
- 1.1k views
Rookie mechanic looking for a pro tip. Got the brass shifter bushing kit from MSA (sucks that you have to file material off to make them fit) and can’t get the pin back in. Many attempts at this blind process. Any ideas on how I can line up the shifter fork holes and holes in the bushings?
Last reply by Geoff's 240z, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 830 views
I need help everyone. I have been having trouble with my hood on my 260z popping open. I don't have to even go over a bump. It seems like pressure builds up at city speeds and then it pops open. The alignment of the hood is correct and it shuts easily enough, but as soon as I start driving it pops open. I will post some photos of my latch this evening. If any of you have advice please chime in. Thank you, Ben
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
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Im basically 3/4 way to get 280z on the road, I decided to go the long way instead of paying “a guy” to pass smog. The cat is probably stock and rotting away, the exhaust system its self is also slightly rotting away with little holes in it from rust. I decided on going down the root of getting a 3-2 headers with a smog fitting and a brand new cat. I don’t want to fail visual inspection as I live in California but I also don’t want to break the bank. Would a black exhaust from MSA be to noticeable and would I get turned away for it? ZCardepot has a stainless steal version with a smog fitting as well, but I don’t know if its as good as quality as the MSA 3-2. Any tips on e…
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 837 views
I need help getting my 260z with round-top SU’s running again. Symptoms: It cranks and pops but no start. Leading up to this, the engine would stumble. This was after I did some work on the car and I’m assuming caused the issue. In order of repairs, there’s the list: 1) Replaced the transmission. 2) Replaced the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. 3) Replaced the oil pan gasket. 4) Adjusted valves, discovering a damaged cam lobe. Spark plugs were coated with carbon, so I cleaned them with a propane torch. <this is when stumbling was first notice, but car not driven since before transmission was changed> 5) Removed rocker in contac…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
- 5 followers
- 42 replies
- 2.4k views
To set the scene: early ‘74 260z with four screw round tops and a recent l24 swap. ive been chasing little issues trying to get this l24 that I swapped in, to run. i drove the car with these round top SUs on the l26 with the current float level and mixture adjustment. Since putting the l24 in and trying to start it, fuel has started to pour out of the front of both carburetors after I stop cranking. I previously adjusted the float level and recently checked the float level, they are within spec. I ran and drove with the carbs set up this way and didn’t notice fuel leaking from the carbs before, and I’m guessing that it would’ve started a fire …
Last reply by siteunseen,
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