Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Well I hit a bump on the road, after getting the engine running and being happy, it started to have a tap that increased with rpm's, so I figured it was valve related (hoped it was) so I took the valve cover off and found one of the little guides off and laying on the bottom, see pic, you can see the valve missing it and the guide on the bottom. I have researched it and looked at the FSM, and I have found basic instructions but missing some details, I found this pic on this forum My questions are: 1. Can the guide be put back in with just loosening the locking nut and adjusting the arm all the way up or do I need to remove cam 2. I see the two nuts on there on 43.…
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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Just bought a 240z that's been sitting outside for the last 3 years. Ran when parked but hasn't ran since. I'm guessing changing oil. Pulling plugs and squirting oil in there. Best type to use for cylinder bores? Think I'll drain the coolant and refill. Also the gas tank. Car has 4 screw round top SU carbs ,as it should, so is there anything I should do to prepare them before even attempting to start the car? What else should I do before I even turn her over for the first time? Thanks
Last reply by EverRude, -
- 19 replies
- 5.9k views
Well folks, here's my first post. I've spent the last two hours trying to find an answer to my wiring issue and another 2 trying to diagnose it. So when all else fails, get some help from those who have LOTS of experience. 1977 280Z. PO "fixed" the combination switch for the headlights. After my drive home (lights off) I realized that they didn't work. I noticed the Red wire FSM says it runs to the fuse box, I think, was off. I put my finger over it and pressed it back onto the connection and it the lights turned on. A month later I'm finally getting to the issue of soldering it back on. I soldered the connection back together on it's pin. I turned the light…
Last reply by LostxSoul, -
- 3 replies
- 894 views
When I turn the key to start, the needle on the tach goes to 8000. I just removed the tach to change out the lights and when I checked the contacts, nothing went to ground except the black wire. When I checked the dash wiring, I got 12 volts on the green wire. On the tach, I got 4000 ohms from the single post terminal to it's housing and 320 ohms between the posts of the dual terminals. Is my problem in the wiring harness or the tach??
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 2.5k views
This isn't actually a question for my 240, but actually my 84, but since Z31.com for some reason won't accept me i was wondering if anyone knows of any shops out here near Fontana CA (San Bernardino County). I've heard of Z Car Specialty out in upland and i was just wondering if they were still open and if they worked on later model z's. Anyways it looks like i need a full engine rebuild for my 84 and im just looking for a good reliable place to take it to and i don't know of anywhere to take it too out here.
Last reply by rtaylor, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
im in the process on doing my stroker soon and got all the parts that i think its ready for the build but was wondering if you guys are using the wrist pin for the ka24e pistons or the wrist pin for the L24? i tried fitting the wrist pin for the ka24e pistons into the 240z rods but it wont go in, its a little bit too big. thanks for the help.
Last reply by 240260280z, -
- 13 replies
- 1.8k views
ok so ever since I put a new battery in my car the Cd player doesnt work, doesnt even turn on and my halogen/foglights dont work anymore either. In fact the old man I bought the car from had his battery cables backwards on the starter and hooked up black to positive and red to negative... But anyways I tested this with the new battery, put red on positive and black on negative and the starter started smoking but I took it off within a couple seconds. But ever since then the cd player doesnt work and the foglights dont either. I check the fuses under the center console and they all look fine. Im pretty clueless right now, any help would be appreciative. The 2nd problem is …
Last reply by Tspite, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
Not sure how to post to this forum. Just purchased a 1976 280Z 2+2. First week I have already replaced the alternator and installed a drivers side door. I have three projects to complete this weekend. 1) Dash lights not working? Not sure where to start. Thought I would replace all of the fuses. Also concerned about the Panel-Light Switch/Rheostat. The tail lights are working and the brake light is staying on. The little voltage light also works. Any help here would be appreciated? 2) Brakes? The previous owner supposedly just replaced the front pads. I am getting a lot of squealing. I know that this is a common issue. Any thoughts on what I should due to eli…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
Dear Z car group/enthusiasts, I shoulda done this a long time ago. But I have so much going on and wrong in my life I am not thinking clearly. I bought a 78 Datsun 280Z car (I believe it is the original engine and tranny) about 3 or 4 months ago. The car came with a smog that was done within the last 6 months of the previous owners ownership. Yea, I shoulda brought the car to a shop and had it checked out before I bought it. Maybe this problem would have been seen but the guy had a smog cert. so I figured this wasnt going to be an issue. When I drove the car it handled great and I knew I was going to throw 1 -2k at it and have a nice little driver. Not a show car, the int…
Last reply by StephenJ, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
I'm from the UK but my car came from California. I want to put authentic Californian plates on it but not sure what is correct. It's a 1970 car...should they be black plates and if so what colour digits?? Should the word California be embossed/pressed or just a sticker Many Thanks
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
- 8 replies
- 3k views
Acquired 1974 260z, UK spec, part of reasonable price was the fact that the electrics were not perfect. Most items now working fine, however, tach that was not working when purchased but plugged in, now kills engine when plugged in, and will not start if plugged in. Everything else works fine when removed, any thoughts, ideas would be appreciated?
Last reply by pepedod, -
- 1 reply
- 1k views
I am guessing there is a lot of resistance in the connection. I was driving with the wipers on and the steering column started puffing some smoke. I turned them off, but the smell stayed around for a while. So am I at the point of removal, cleaning and maybe some solder? Is this the the same type of problem with the fuse box? Thanks! W
Last reply by 240260280z,
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