Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
If you can help thank you serge I am looking for those parts ,my datsun is a 1977 280z,and my oil pan leaks even after changing the gasket at the Nissan dealership here in Tucson Az,and i was told that there are no longer avialiable..Does any one as a picture of those parts so i may go to the junk yard and know what to remove, or were i could buy some . thank you for helping From the Datsun / Nissan Parts Microfiche: 11124-R1000..............Reinforcement - Oil Pan (This piece goes around the rear of the engine, and along the passenger side of the engine. 11124-P6500..............Reinforcement - Oil Pan 11123-N3300.............Reinforcement with Heat S/Plate (This piece …
Last reply by clayton 260z, -
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- 13 replies
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decided to swap my l24 to an l28, got an engine from a buddy. taking the head off i snaped the number two head bolt, i drilled a hole in it and hammered an easy out down the hole, whent to wrench it off and broke the eas out. im wondering if i could get away with a broken bolt and not have any leaks, probly unlikely. also how much would it cost to get a shop to extract the bolt?
Last reply by olzed, -
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I inherited new axle boots and u-joints with my parts 240Z. In the course of pulling the u-joints, I caused or discovered some damage on the inside mating surface of one yoke. I had an extra set of axles and decided to go ahead with those, but found that the end nearest the diff is permanently sealed - not held with a spring clip etc. Of the various manuals, the factory shows the whole thing as being a simple project (remove with a soft-faced mallet, etc.), while Humble glosses right over it. Clymer is confusing in that in one paragraph it says you can't do it because there are no replacement parts available, then in the next goes on to describe how to do it. A peek …
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
- 22 replies
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Ok I bought a 1972 240Z with a L28 engine. I assumed (yeah yeah I know) that the engine was just transplanted from a newer car, since thats what the guy told me. N42 castings on both the block and head. Anyway, I had really low compression on number 6 cylinder. To save myself the time and trouble, I buy a complete head with low milege, from a guy, buy all the gaskets, and new head bolts. I take off the old head, and low and behold some one rebuilt the engine and put flat top pistons in it, meaning that the exhaust valves where all having intimate realationships with the pistons. My question is, for a quick fix until I have the money to rebuild the engine. Can I use a drem…
Last reply by Moto, -
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I recently cleaned out the tank in my '71 and installed the tank, sending unit and O-ring. Now the gauge is pegged at full even though I know I only have ~1 gallon in there!! While removing and checking the sending unit, I discovered that it would read fine as long as the retaining ring wasn't on but, as soon as I the ring comes in contact with the unit and tank, the gauge goes off. The ring looked a little rusty and it wouldn't ohm when I used my multimeter so I cleaned it up with some emery. Still the same result!! From my very limited electrical background, I've figured out that this has something to do with grounding. Has anyone else run into this problem, and if so…
Last reply by Da Flash, -
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I don't know if this thread fits in here, but for me it is a help me. I need to perform some mechanical work on my car but the garage I am currently renting, like many other here in San Fran, allow no work on the car. Is there anywhere that is renting out hourly spaces or work bays that I could work on my car in for a day? Thanks!
Last reply by yoshi_w, -
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Is there a way to visually tell if the rear suspention parts and stub axles are from a 240Z or 280Z or 280ZX and from an R180 or R200? I have some rear suspension parts that I'm needing to identify.
Last reply by jmortensen, -
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- 2k views
HELP - MY PROBLEM/QUESTIONS??? - my heater was eliminated by the previous owner who looped the heater hose from the water pump to the block -and bypassed the heater coil all together - in researching further w/ helpful steps from this sites threads I did a total teardown and diagnosed a few problems under the dash - it appeared that the curvy heater hose was replaced by a straight one that made a kink in the hose dis-allowing the anti-freeze to flow freely creating a leaky weak spot around the valve - besides 2 clamps not being placed correctly - so all in all the previous owner got lazy and just eliminated the heater - i had the heater coil re-tinned (no leaks) - checked…
Last reply by silvey19k, -
- 4 replies
- 981 views
Ive got another question as to what this switch does? Its on the lower right hand side of the steering collumn and is like a knob for teh AC or something. I dont have AC in my car and so I took it out when putting my dash back in my car. It doesnt look to be factory installed at all, it just dangled there really. And when I got my dash back in and still had it plugged in, when I would test start the car I would hear a kind of a "POP" noise from the engine compartment. So I removed it completely and the pop noise went away.
Last reply by tymarbry, -
- 9 replies
- 6k views
The Z didn't pass smog yesterday due to a high HC and CO I attached the results and was wondering what caused this to fail. Car is Stock Replaced Spark Plugs New Fuel Filter, Air Filter No vacuum leaks. Could this be a bad CAT? or Timing is set incorrectly? Thanks for the help Pat I have a 1977 280z
Last reply by draztik280, -
- 30 replies
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Hey guys, i have a 75 280z, and it's taken me about 2 months of spinning my wheels to finally get on here and ask about this problem. I've looked at everything i can think of in the car. my fuel pump will not pump gas into the engine, it's not getting any power. i've checked the connections, and gone through as much of the harness as i can get to at the moment. and i haven't been able to find any problems, i replaced the pump to no avail. (i tested the old one and it definitely was faulty anyway) but i was wondering what else i should check to find the problem. this car has been my dream car for a long time, and i really want to get the thing up and running. any help…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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- 2.5k views
Just in the middle of doing the front wheel bearings on my '72 and am a little stumped. Which side of the inner seal goes towards the spindle? The left (with groove facing engine) or the right (groove facing away from engine) in the picture? Thanks!
Last reply by boyracer88,
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