Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Hello all. I hope someone can point me in the right direction. I have this 240z I’m trying to get running and am having a bit of trouble getting it to run. The car will start and then sounds like it runs just fine but does after about 20 seconds of running and then will not start again unless I let it sit for an hour or so. my first thought was rust in the tank causing poor fuel delivery. Fuel was an orange color in the filter. So this morning I ran the fuel feed line in a clean jug of fuel to bypass the tank all together (electric k&n fuel pump). This caused the same outcome. Started and sounded good for a short moment, then dies and wouldn’t start again. could…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Finally got the car running decent and its time to pay fees and smog. hooked up my carbon canister with a T fitting, adjusted AFM so it runs a bit leaner at idle. Timing needs to be set to 10° along with a new oil change pre smog. I have also decided to do a e85 and regular gas mixture, a 3:2 ratio, 3 gallons of premium gas and 2 gallons of e85. Is there anymore I could do to ensure a pass for California smog? Car still smells like gas but not as much after adjusting afm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
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After some help from zedhead with picking injectors, the car now runs like a charm and sounds like a healthy 6 cylinders not 5. Injectors fixed the starting issue, the slow acceleration issue and a ton more. Sadly I have to go get the car smogged at a star certified shop. My carbon canister is not setup correctly at all besides one hose, I would love some visual help with setting the canister up since I am a visual learner. It is mainly missing the distributor to carbon canister hose, I couldn’t find a good diagram for it.
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
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- 12 replies
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Hello, I’m a novice and learning as I go on my 1970 240z. This pic shows a wire attached to the water temp thermal transmitter; but I cannot identify the other unused wire…FSM indicates it could be the water temp switch? There are no other obvious connections in that area. Thank you, Mike
Last reply by DedZed, -
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Hello all. I really hope I can get some positive help here i recently purchased a 1971 240z that has an l28 swap that had set in the desert a couple years not running. So long story short, the previous owner had done some really “hackery” of a job to the wiring in the whole car. I have spent the past week or so getting the car ready to crank and start for the first time. I finally got the car to start and of course idled a little rough. But my concern is that when the engine stumbles and is about to die the starter solenoid kicks back on by itself without me touching the ignition. what could be the cause of this? I have installed a new starter and a new ignitio…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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240z speedo needle bouncing. Read that drive cable needs to be lubed. Have pulled cable inner from transmission end, cleaned and lubed said inner with 3-In-1 light oil. Blew out the housing from the speedo end. Now, how to lube the inside of speedo cable housing and with what?
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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- 14 replies
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I put an l24 into my 260z to use temporarily and so far I haven’t been able to get it started. I don’t know the history on this engine, I got it for free and was told it ran, I didn’t want to ask too many questions incase he decided it wasn’t going to be free anymore. Aside from the long block and fuel pump, everything on the engine is what came off of the original engine which I did drive the car with. since the engine has compression (albeit not great compression) and has the ignition and carbs (round tops) that I used previously, I don’t know why it wont start. Sometimes when cranking it’ll fire and sound like it’s going to start, but doesn’t. …
Last reply by Cooper260z, -
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I have a 240z with an engine & 5-speed from a 280z. I've always had trouble shifting into reverse, but now it seems like the clutch won't disengage at all. I've installed a new slave cylinder and bled the line (I think I did all this properly 😅). I've also adjusted the clutch pedal almost all the way out. Attached is a video of the slave cylinder actuating under full petal press. It seems like it's not traveling as far as it should. I took the boot off for visual reference. 125930574_PXL_20210605_1916584222.mp4
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 916 views
Where do I hook up my remote starter? Has two leads, thinking positive cable & ? 72 240Z Thanks! Steve
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I've had my '73 240z for a couple of years and its always run pretty decent, but it overheats in city driving. Last fall I was driving and hit some rush hour and it got pretty hot (about 3/4 of the gauge). After a while I got out of traffic and it started to cool down some, but about a mile from my house it started running really rough and 1/4 mile from my house it died completely. I coasted downhill to my house and pushed it into the garage. It wouldn't start, but I was so tired of the overheating I took the radiator out and got it rodded out. I also installed a fan shroud. After I got all that put back together, I've been trying to get it started, and it just won…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
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I placed an order a month ago with Tabco, got the confirmation order number but they have not shipped the items I ordered. Been emailing them several times with no respond. The toll number 1-800-782-5226 don't work in Canada? Anyone ordering from Tabco have any issues? Can anyone in the US call the number if it still works? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by 240Ziggy, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
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Having Tachometer Issues and need to troubleshoot. Finally got the Tach loose and out the hole. I've tried everything....having a helluva time getting that connector loose, only enough room for 1 1/2 hands. What's the trick?
Last reply by SteveJ,
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