Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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anyone know of a z shop arond daytona beach ?
Last reply by esmit208, -
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Weak spark 1 2
by patjamejam- 17 replies
- 4.9k views
MY 72 240 stock BABY HAS BEEN DYING ON ME EVERY SO OFTEN, ONLY TO START BACK UP LATER....MOST OF THE TIME! TODAY SHE DIED.....AT THE SHOP... THE MECH WAS TESTING THE SPARK AND SAID IT HAS A WEAK SPARK FROM COIL HE WAS NOT USING A METER JUST A VISUAL .... WHY WOULD I HAVE A WEAK SPARK? Car runs great most of the time, has been doing this dying thing more and more often. PLEASE ADVISE? Thanks in advance. Pat
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
i am new here but i need help i just bought a new project 1978 280z and i was pulling the front cover off the engine to redew the timing and when i got everything off i have noticed that the distributor drive gear is cracked from the previous owner i am in need of a new one but cant seem to find one i have tried all the z stores online and cant seem to find it if any of u have any ideas please let me know any help is greatly apreciated thanks
Last reply by dustin_haru, -
- 31 replies
- 3k views
Car: 1973 240z, l28, 280zx dizzy, 1973 flattop carbs. Hi, so I thought I was getting back on track with getting the car all fixed up, I changed the air filter and just changed the in-bay fuel filter. After replacing the fuel filter, I started up the car and it was idling a little better, but then I began to notice smoke coming from in between the carbs and engine, around where the exhaust manifold is. I couldn't pinpoint the location, what could be the cause? Sidenotes: it takes a while for the car to start up, a very long time, even with new fuel filter, choke doesn't work, if this could be connected to problem.
Last reply by yoshi_w, -
- 4 replies
- 2.7k views
:paranoid:Basically is it safe or hazardous to connnect stainless steel style tubing with regular E.F.I hose clamps (pics of each below). I am not running any type of upgraded engine mods at this time except for high flow 3-2-1 headers and performance straight pipes (forgot diameter). So I don't think the Fuel psi pressure in the lines will be to extreme, but I am getting rid of the stock fuel pressure regulator and getting a manually adjustable one (with gauge attached fuel pressure regulator) This is all for my after market fuel rail mod that you could look up in the E.F.I. section on the forum and basically is it safe to clamp all my hose ends (stainless) with regula…
Last reply by Willoughby Z, -
- 3 replies
- 975 views
I applied the main rear hatch seal today. I am also trying to apply the outer rear hatch seal that comes in three pieces from Black Dragon. There was not any on the car in which to reference...so not sure how it lays on there. The two sides are alike in profile, while the top is a different profile. Any ideas on how they should lay inside or ontop of the channel? I through in some pics on possibilities. I just don't want to get it wrong...taking it off after gluing it on would be a pain. HELP!!
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
the main fuel line in the tank has a leak so if you let the gas drop under the gas line it gets air in line
Last reply by FastWoman, -
OK. Here's the thing. I'm restoring my 73. Long story. My hesitation is about the drive train. I have a 72' L24 with a dual weber carb set up etc. and a 4 speed manual but it has been parked for 10+ yrs. Ran OK (not great) when I parked it but I lived in Colorado at +9,000 ft. at the time so I blame altitude on a lot of issues I had. Nothing in this car matches as far as serial #'s go. The original owner (i'm #3) drove it off the lot and didn't change the oil, "ever!" and wondered why the engine seized up. (not all women are clueless about cars including my wife ;@). I swapped out the original automatic transmission with a 72 4 speed in 1986 because an automatic in my Z j…
Last reply by FrankieZD, -
- 14 replies
- 2k views
Hey everyone, just ordered and received a rubber shift boot and a choke grommet in order to help with the fumes inside the Z. The shift boot has a hole and I can see the floor, while the choke grommet is missing all together and in its place a piece of duct tape. Anyway, while I am installing the grommet, I was wondering if there was anything I could to do fix the choke? I pull on the knob and the cables do move like they are supposed to, but nothing happens. Not even when I pull on the linkage manually. I know it is supposed to increase the idle in order to help the car warm up. Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Anything that I can do myself or should I lea…
Last reply by Decoy12, -
- 25 replies
- 3.6k views
Hi everyone. I'm new and I have a 71 240z with a L28 block / L24 head. Tonight while I was driving my fan and timing belt both snapped, and the coolant hose running from the radiator back through the firewall sprung a leak (I believe it's the hose running coolant to the heater or A/C). Does anyone know the parts numbers or sizes for these belts & the coolant hose? I left my car in a safe place and will need to pick up parts tomorrow. I'd search more but after having pushed my car endlessly I'm seriously worn out. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
This tach is on Ebay and I'm not sure if it will fit my 8/70 Z. I haven't pulled the dash to be able to compare it, but don't want to let it get away if it's the right tach. This is supposedly out of a 72 (no month provided). I haven't found anything in the archives about tach compatibility other than there is a 3 wire and a 4 wire tach and they aren't compatible. Will this tach work in my car?
Last reply by JohnnyO, -
- 13 replies
- 3k views
Well, at least I think I've tried everything. I have a '72 240Z that ran just fine a few months ago, but was very, very gross. I stripped the engine compartment to begin a long overdue restoration, and with everything cleaned up, painted, or replaced I put it all back together and now I have no spark from the coil. I've been reading forum posts for days trying to figure what's going on and have since - double-checked the wires to my dash and tach, - confirmed the points have power, - checked the wiring inside the distributor, - confirmed power at the coil (9v in "on" and 12v in "start"), - replaced condenser and coil, spark plug wires and coil wire and still no spark fro…
Last reply by chocolate_supra,
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