Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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I am trying to determine if my manual 4spd shifter is correct for my OEM 72. It has a bend in the chrome shaft in the lower half (under the leather shift boot). Another Z-guy hasa told me it is not correct, should be a straight stick shift? I thought I read the Type B's were moved more forward on the frame and needed the bend for clearance. Any help/Knowledge or photo's on this is greatly appreciated! Mike
Last reply by BSCM@310, -
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- 30 replies
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Late November I joined this resourceful site after rescuing a 1976 Z that was sitn in a barn for almost 2 years - holidays are over and the new year resolution is to have this z on the road in upcoming months - started the standard clean-up/diagnostics - i have been educating/lerking on the forums - very informative!! i know i can sleuth thru the forums and find most answers but i know all z's are unique - hopefully photos will answer a few questions 1. Heater hose flange on firewall - intake/return - disconnected - only reason i would think this was done is that there is a problem underneath dash - they looped the intake hose from the pump back to the block - any other…
Last reply by Pleiner87, -
- 19 replies
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I just bought a 260z from a guy and he said that he re-wired the whole car.. BUT more than half of all my wires are cut!! The car runs but I have no brake lights. I tried finding the fuse that connects to my brake switch but no luck. (unless its that little cylinder looking thing right in front of my brake) According to Chillton all my wires are right.. I have running lights but no brake lights.. Can someone please help me figure out whats wrong??
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hey I just bought a 1974 260z for $1200. Its in amazing condition for the price, no rust, good interior (original), original red paint with little oxidization, and new tires. I couldn't drive it when i bought it due to the fact that it was broken into and the aftermarket MSD ignition was stolen (why the price was low). But i figured if the 4 speed manual transmission was shot or the engine busted i could part it out for a decent profit. Well i bought the MSD ($189 at kragens) hooked it up and turned her on. The sound was amazing but before i could drive it she shut off. It wouldn't idle i could gas it and she would stay running but as soon as I let go of the accelerat…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I recently installed the 280zx electronic distributor. I finally got it running the other day, and got the timing about right. Then I sprayed the hell out of the carb intakes with carb cleaner and let them sit for a while. It runs with the choke fully on (also set to "winter"), but has really low RPM, around 500. It will start, go to around 500, then slowly drop. Also, yesterday after I had started it a few times over a couple minutes I looked and the temp gauge was way over the limit. But the engine was barely hot. Anybody know what the issue(s) could be?
Last reply by nrossi6969, -
Ok, a few months back i posted on here and since then my problems have changed. The car used to start and run and then die after about 20 minutes. Now it has NO SPARK and will not fire. It will turn over constantly but never fire. "NEW PARTS" Battery MSD Blaster 2 Coil NGK Performance Wires NGK Platinum Plugs Distributor Distributor Cap Rotor Button Pick Up Coil Ignition Control Module Why will she not fire? Just turn over. Its getting fuel, the pump hits everytime ( i took the S terminal off of the starter to hear it) I also got sprayed in the face with gas when i loosened up a fuel line to see if there was fuel in the lines and there were. She has no spark, and I am out…
Last reply by cozye, -
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Has anyone tried rebuilding an ignition switch? My switch is starting to get flakey. I have to wiggle my key sometimes to get my heater fan to work. I was hoping to take mine apart and clean it up if possible. Anybody done this before?
Last reply by steve91tt, -
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In the never ending process of 9070 I am putting the side windows back in and they work great, go up and down really nice. Then I put the roller in on the passenger side and the window is pushed in too far. It does go into the channel at the top but the roller seems to push too hard. I am afraid to bend it, and more afraid to remove it to bend it. Any suggestions? Also the headlights do not come one, I can ground the relay on turn signal stalk (high low) and get the lights but they do not come on with the switch. It has been almost 20 year since they have been tried. I have not tried to track it down yet other than checking fuses. Is there anything simple and q…
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 17 replies
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Bear with me guys, just got a s30 after owning a z32 for several years. I got very familiar with the VG platform, but have never worked on a carburetor vehicle before. Quick summary: - Ran fine as of 2 weeks ago, just had carbs tuned by a mechanic. - It sat for a week, few days ago I drove it around the block a few times to get used to the 6 puck clutch. I noticed a major stumbling/hesitation under load. - Yesterday, I had planned to get the timing checked and carbs retuned to address the stumbling hesitation, couldn't get the motor to start. Realized the battery had gone dead. Flooded it in the process of trying to get it going so I can limp to the shop, didn't happen. -…
Last reply by Kennymonster, -
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Hey guys, i have a 77' 280, lately My car has been lurching forward / chugging / just running terribly. It used to do it sometimes when the engine warmed up but it has been really cold here lately so i didn't notice if it was doing it or not. But now it does it really bad whether the engine is warmed up or not. Other things i have noticed that may be related. sometimes the car takes a lot of time turning over to start and it feels like it won't start then it does. But the idle is very low. about 1k ish, and dropping lower then coming back up. Also my oil pressure seems a little higher then usual. But these things could have nothing to do with the main problem that the car…
Last reply by cozye, -
- 8 replies
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I recently got a 75 280z which was sitting for several years. When I got the car, it wouldn't start and had no brakes. After a new fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, starter, battery, and some intake and oil cleaning it runs. problem now is if I turn it on and let it sit for a while (roughly 10 minutes) it will die out. I rewired the maf, and took off the cover and made sure all of the connections were ok. Seemed to be ok for a while, but now its doing the same thing. And whats kind of odd is when its about to die out, if I hit the gas I can hear the fuel pump relay under the dash click. As far as the brakes go, I put on a new master cyl. brake hoses…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
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- 769 views
More steering problems! I stripped my rack and pinion right down to the main tube. I wanted to get the tube powder coated. The aluminium pinion casting stayed in place. Unfortunately, while it was hanging in the coating shop's oven, it fell off. Now if it came off that easily, an apparent result of differing rates of heat expansion as between disimilar metals, I shouldn't have too much trouble putting it back on the same way, I being possessed of both a propane torch and a yard full of snow. The troubling part is getting it back on at exactly the right alignment. I have another old rack I can use a a guide, but it seems it would be very easy to be off by a few deg…
Last reply by Richard McDonel,
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