Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 25 replies
- 7.7k views
i need to know if anyone ha,s because i need to connect the IGNITION WIRE HARNESS from the 81 280zx turbo and install it in the 1975 280z... all the write ups are talking about 77 280z and the relays are diffrent than the ones i have on my 75...please some help i havent got any feed back from anyone on this site... if some has done the swap on there 75 let me know were the fuel relay and inhibitor relay are located and what wires u connected from the ignition wire harness to the relays...
Last reply by mldub2, -
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- 5 replies
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I've got the shop manual for my car that has a wiring diagram in it but was wondering if anyone knew of a better (easier to read) headlights wiring diagram for my '77 280z 5-speed.... I replaced my combo and dimmer switches (thanks Dave!) and it works great but there is a bug somewhere in the rest of the wiring on my car that causes the lights not to come on at times...... Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
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I have a couple of broken exhaust studs and I am looking for a reputable machine shop in Houston. Preferably south Houston but anywhere in the area would be fine. Anyone had a good experience with a machine shop locally?
Last reply by rossman, -
- 2 replies
- 710 views
Looks like the Wife and I will be moving to Greensburg, PA, sometime next summer(2011.) (She got into her Med-school of choice.) Its still a little ways off but I thought I'd get online and look into the hoops I'll have to jump through for vehicle registration, and it looks like PA's requirements are much stricter than Washington's. Example-vehicles over 25 years old don't require any inspections or testing here in Seattle. My Z is a 78 280, and while not a daily driver, it sees regular use for commuting and weekend drives. In Pennsylvania my 280 will require yearly safety checks and visual inspection of all systems, from what I can tell. The safety checks are easy, …
Last reply by inmocean, -
- 8 replies
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Hi all I am working on my sons 260 again. It had a bad exhaust leak and found they broke a bolt/stud off. Also I found a wire 2 actually-broken near the dist. Not sure what they are.. Also I am going to change the coil-it is leaking. What numbers am I looking for on the dist to make sure I get the right coil..? Plus the adv. mech is kinda tight so it is coming out to be looked over as well. I think I opened a can of worms:) and I haven't even got to the coolant lines,headers, how to tune a Weber or choice of cams=mild btw. I don't want to change springs. Btw I have been searching all morning for some good pics of the intake area also . If you have any post em up. …
Last reply by torker, -
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Hi all, I am sure that I am just missing something simple here, but I want to ask before I get very frustrated. Finally getting the rear suspension together and am having an issue here. I have searched all over and I "think" that I know the issue, but want to make sure. The front diff mount is about an inch and a half forward (to front of car) of the actual bolt holes. I "think" that the M-Bar is on backwards, but want to make sure. The diff mount is reversed on the x-member, but still not close. Here is the pictures: I assembled everything yesterday with the M-Bar in the opposite direction. Everything lined up fine, but the M-Bar was BEHIND the rear traverse lin…
Last reply by SSuspect, -
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hello, just wondering can anyone recommend some type of adhesive that would work like magic to fix my passenger side door handle. most people probably had the same problem as i did if they replaced or repaired their door handle, mine snapped on plastic part where the lever connects too. i know most will say just to replace it, but being from canada, it takes for ever for parts to get shipped here, not to mention sometimes it gets held up in customs. i am trying to look for the cheaper alternative, i tried some products called "cold weld" but that doesn't work, it looks like after it cures it does, but when you go and try to test it out and pull on the lever it just snaps …
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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I have a 1972 240z that I have restored the body and interior. The car has 58,000 original miles on it and I want to have the engine rebuilt, new brake system and suspension put on it. Does anyone know of someone in the Atlanta, GA area that really knows these cars?
Last reply by esprist, -
- 6 replies
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OK, guys. Need some experienced help. Bought a new filler neck for the winter tear-down. You know winter tear-down, the time when since she's off the road and you might as well do the stuff you've been putting off because you don't want to waste good driving weather (replace the antenna mast, replace the LED in the radio, add the equalizer, R/T diff mount, half-shaft U-Joints etc, etc,). Been getting a whiff of gas on a fill-up so figured this would be a good solution for a 40 yr old part. Have heard horror stories about the difficulty of replacing the neck. Plan is to drop the tank, replace the sending unit, re-plumb some of the PO's vent hoses and the filler neck. Is i…
Last reply by mlc240z, -
- 12 replies
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i just recently bought a motor and the pilot bearing chipped. i got a replacement bearing but i can't remove the old one. please help!!
Last reply by Mike B, -
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well my lights are acting a little funny cuz when i turn the light switch to the parking lighrs the both arrows that are in the tacho turn on and the front 2 parking lights and the left corner light are off then when i use the blinkers this 3 light that dont turn on start blinking and i already check the wiring,the bulbs and the fuse box but no luck finding a solution to this problem and i think my last resort is to find another hazard switch since i heard that they go bad and that all the cables for the lights run thru it. also one thing that i noted is that when i bought my car it came with the pull switch rather that the flip up switch (my car is a 1972) so i dont know…
Last reply by 72zeta, -
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
not sure why but my idle wont go down till i come to a stop. if keep rolling it won't drop but as soon as i stop, it drops. anyone else run into this problem?
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain,
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