Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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Good Day All, I need help trying to figure out where an extra vacuum hose connects to please. Picture below is from my 1976 280z (Manual Transmission, non-California car) over by the master cylinder. I have three vacuum hoses where the manual shows I should have only two (The picture is not clear). There should be a hose coming from the fast idle actuator into a "T" connector where one ends connects to a vacuum connector and presumably to one of these hoses, yet I have two that is wrapped up in tape (Tape that looks pretty original). These then run across the firewall to the other side of the car. It seems I have an extra vacuum hose? I am not sure at this point.
Last reply by 280z762021, -
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While pressing on a new crank damper, I heard a 'ping' and new it was that damn woodruff key. I pulled the damper back off and sure enough it was gone. I've searched all through there, pulled the seal off, tried digging around with picks and a magnet (although a large magnet on a straight stick, not the best tool for that) to no avail. I'm dreading the thought of having to disassembly the engine again just to get that damn key back. Do you guys know of another way? If it fell into the oil pan, should I just leave it there? Is it possible it fell into one of the oil pump holes? Please Help!
Last reply by Awk34, -
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1977 Datsun 280z The problem I'm having is that I have exhaust leaks in the manifold so I'm removing the intake manifold, but I've hit a wall at this darn EGR tube that refuses to come off. Every video I've seen has just deleted the EGR system and removes the tubing by cutting it. The problem with that is that I live in California. If I delete the EGR valve, would it cause it to not pass CA emissions? I don't know much about emissions testing and exactly what the EGR does, but I know I'd prefer to keep it. I'm giving it all a bath in penetrating oil but I've pretty much already rounded the nut at the exhaust manifold pretty well. My last hope is to get the …
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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Im new to this im no grease monkey, and im 18 I have had trouble with my 1978 280z starting ive gotten the car to run even do a lap around but it has trouble when starting the car cranks and sounds like it wants to start but wont, starting fluid really helps to turn it on but if i let my foot off the clutch and off the gas the car will turn off, if i give it constant gas it will stay on as long as i keep giving it has if it dips under 1k rpm it will die, after many many attempts I can get the car to stay on and idles around 800-1000rpm and will stay on, im guessing it may be a fuel Issue it does not read temperature on the temp gauge so sensors may not be working. I can p…
Last reply by dylancorrea1, -
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- 26 replies
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Fellas.... I am trying to adjust the timing on my Z. :mad: I think the distributor is off a gear, but before I remove the Oil Pump I want to make sure where the # 1 Cylinder is suppose do be on the distributor. Right now, It is around 8:00 looking from the drivers fender when 1# is @ TDC on compression. PLEASE HELP. Send pics if possible... I can't quite get enough timing into it as it is now... I am working on it now, so quick (and accurate) replies would be greatly appreciated Chris
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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Hi all, New here, with my 1975 Datsun 280z. I am in the process of getting it running. I was able to get a new battery and start testing electrical power. I had the headlights and tail lights working, then began to start cranking. It successfully cranked for about 10 seconds. I stopped and tried again, but this time no power. I lost power to all lights as well. I took out my multimeter and tested the fusible links first. I have power to the White wires (closest to the fender) in the box. But zero power to the White/Red terminals (closest to the engine). I checked my power to the starter and confirmed 12v. I even jumped the solenoid and was able to see the starter wor…
Last reply by Barefootdan, -
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So I've been having a low rough idle situation, adjusting the idle screw does not a whole lot. The idle wont go higher than about 600-700. I've gone around and checked for vacuum leaks and there don't seem to be any. So I've moved on to looking at the water temperature sensor. I read in this topic here: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63285-280z-78-wont-idle-running-rich-out-of-ideas/ where Zed Head talks about testing the ECU at pin 13 to ground for resistance, so I started there. When I touch to pin 13 and touch to chassis I get a big fat 0L. When I touch to the ground pins, 17 or 35 and to chassis there is continuity, but direct from pin 1…
Last reply by Lunacie, -
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I am helping my nice retired neighbor out with his restoration of his series 1 240z. Paint and body all complete, assembly has begun. Car is on rotisserie. We are assembling the rear suspension and at the point of installing the new spindle pins and ......... can not get the lower control are to line up with the hub assembly to slide the new pins in. With the new poly bushings installed on the passenger side, the gap between the control arm is about 4 mm too small to fit in the hub assembly and get the pin in. I measured the driver side and it looks like it will fit ok on that side. Has anyone run into this? Am I missing something obvious? At a standstill…
Last reply by S30Driver, -
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Does anyone know these fender mirrors or knows what they are worth? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by lapriser, -
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I am replacing the Transmission Mount on a 1972 240Z. The attached photo shows the Transmission Mount Cross Member (bushings for each end of the bar have been removed) and two types of insulators. The insulator on the left is the original insulator and the one right is a new after market insulator. The bearing surface of the new insulator (the surface that rests on the bar) is wider than the bearing surface on the original insulator. The new insulator also has a couple of "tack welds" along one edge of the bearing surface. These are visible in the photo. It is my understanding the cross member I have (the one shown in the photo) was used until June of 1972. Beginning…
Last reply by JTO, -
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Anyone know what this green circuit board is???
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I resurrected my '78 280Z after a 10-1/2 year nap in preparation of my move from Michigan to Arizona. Back when I was driving it 10+ years ago, it had an issue that I never fixed. The car fires right up minutes to hours after shutting it off, but after an overnight park, it takes 20 - 30 seconds of cranking before it chugs to life. It usually coughs a few times and stalls after doing nothing for the first 20 or so seconds of cranking. The next crank does the trick and once it starts, it runs perfectly. I'm pretty sure it's due to a bad fuel pump check valve and normally, it would be a simple inconvenience, but in exactly two weeks, my Z gets picked up by a flatbed an…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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