Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 11 replies
- 5.2k views
Was hoping the car was going to run today. Just put the new starter motor in, and turns over well. The HI-6 has a signal light on the front of it, which is solid red when powered up, and flashing red while cranking to let the user know that it is receiving a valid trigger signal. Mine turns on to solid red, but does not flash when cranking. In the troubleshooting manual, this means I am not receiving a valid trigger signal from the distributor. The wires to the distributor have all been checked for continuity all the way to inside the distributor from the HI-6. I tested the HI-6 by taking the white trigger wire and touching it to ground. It flashes the LED every time it i…
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
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- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
I have a 90 300zx z32 (Non Turbo) with engine problems, sound like rod noise (180K miles). Any suggestions on best way to go, either rebuild (keep numbers matching) or go for a rebuilt crate engine? I live in Delaware and I'm looking for someone local that could possibly rebuild it for me. So far I found a company PrecisionEngine.com in Houstin Tx that will rebuild it for me if I ship it to them for about $2,700, comes with a 3 year 36K warranty. Anyone heard of Precision Engine? Thanks for any help here!
Last reply by steve91tt, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
I spent 4 hours on my back under my 77' 280z replacing my oil pan gasket. I was not sure where the leaks were coming from accumulated gunk in the skid plate and all around the steering gear assm. and cross member. The leaks have been there for some time, my thoughts was to start with the pan gasket. Well i am sure i might have stopped some but still have oil pooling up on the passenger side steering gear assm bracket. I can also see oil coming down the front of the engine below the CS pulley. It is very hard to see anything without having the car on a rack, where could these leaks be coming from ? Can i fix them without removing the engine from the car ?
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
- 2 replies
- 754 views
I road race a 260z with a 240z engine. My oil pressure went so high that it blew out the oil filter at the seam. Is this caused by a stuck relief valve or are there other issues to check. None of my mechanic friends have ever seen this happen. Any ideas?
Last reply by wreckerjimbo, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
need some help i am putting new wheel clyinders on both back wheels also new brake lines from classic tubes.i have two pieces of brake line that i think go from the wheel clyinder to the top bracket connecting with the stainless steel flex line,but cannot figure out how it goes on or maybe the line are bent wrong.please help with pictures. thanks carl h
Last reply by Casey_z, -
- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
Hello all After three weeks of being away from my Z I returned last night. This morning I bought a brand new battery as the old one was well, um not exactly good any more. (leaking all over and such). Put battery in the car (negative terminal first then positive) and started the Z after three weeks of sitting. Not to my amazement the car started and ran perfectly. Once warmed up I revved the car a number of times and then took it for a nice ride. Later that evening I was driving home from a friends. Noted two things. One the warning flashers (emergency lights) no longer work. Push down the switch and nothing. Blinkers still work fine but the emergency ones do not. Second…
Last reply by clutchdust, -
- 6 replies
- 2.9k views
So I'm having some issues with my 1972 240z. When I bought the car, it was running but really down on power. I went ahead and did the basic maintenance work on it, I installed a Crane XR700 optical points system, a Crane coil, new plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. Checked the timing, and I have good compression, 145-155 across the board. Initially it still felt down on power after all of that, better, but not great, then I found some bad connections at the ballast thanks to jiggling the right wire at the wrong time. Cleaned up the electrical connections around the ballast and coil, and I had power! The car then would run great if you started it cold…
Last reply by Gary in NJ, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
My 280z won't start every time in the mornings for some reason. The car used to be a daily driver but know I only use it on weekends .i'd tried to take it to work some days but it wouldn't start. by the way I start work at 2:30am so it's a little cold. The funny thing is that if I try to turn it on after 12:30 am when the sun is full the car turns like a champ. I'm confused does the car have it's working hours;)
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 9 replies
- 3.8k views
I have a 1978 280Z in which I have just completed installing a rebuilt L28 engine. I had the hardest time getting it to start after the swap (it would turn over but wouldn't fire) but today, I finally got it to fire. Well, sort of. before it reached idle RPM, it backfired badly out of the intake. I checked that my firing order is correct, and that the rotor is pointing towards the #1 plug tower at TDC. I tried adjusting timing by rotating the distributor within the movable range, but it backfired at both ends. Suggestions? EDIT: I just realized I got the "Help me" and "Getting help" sections mixed up. Could an admin kindly move the thread over?
Last reply by tlorber, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Gentlemen - 1972 Z switch for ??? I wonder if you can help me with this. Attached are some pictures of a switch that was installed on the console just above the ash tray. Judging by the hole was drilled (rough) it was installed as an after thought. Since I have had the car I could never see what it operated. This switch is not a 2 position item - it springs back to the center position that you see in the picture. The switch knob can move both directions (left and right) I seem to think the center position is OFF The switch connectors look like factory original parts. All my lights seem to work ok so I have no idea what it was intended to operate. Any thoughts regar…
Last reply by Davis, -
- 3 replies
- 1.2k views
Please, Can somebody tell me if the oil pan can be removed without lifting the engine? I have all the bolts loose and pan will not slide out freely without making contact with transmission housing or binding against the steering control arm. Thanks for your help.
Last reply by dclamm, -
- 0 replies
- 1.4k views
Engine stalls when accelerating. Fuel pressure is 25psi and drops to 20 when accelerating. I believe it should be around 36psi. Just installed a new pressure regulator and fuel filter still 25psi. I noticed when I remove the vacuum hose from the regulator the pressure goes to 36psi also there seems to be no vacuum suction on the hose going to the egr valve or the distributor. pleas help.
Last reply by ronroyboy,
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