Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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Hey guys For the past couple of months I've had a problem with the car idling very poorly when warm after restarting. Upon investigation I found that leaky injectors could be the culprit. This afternoon I installed an inline fuel pressure gauge right past the fuel filter (see pic). I got everything nice and tight and started the car. To my dismay the gauge read 30. When I revved it it goes up to about 33 or so but when I release the throttle it drops to ~27 and then goes back up to 30. When the car is off the pressure will drop to 25 and then slowly creep back up to 35. I understand that this readings isn't exactly what the injectors are seeing but unless there is an i…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 3 replies
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I have a 1970 240z and want to do the honda heater fan conversion, can anyone tell me what years will fit? thanks Mike
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
I've got to move my z from it's present location and own neither truck nor trailer, and can't rent one either. so I'm hoping to be able to drive the car to it's new home.I appreciate anything anybody can help with. She needs: ~Brakes bled - I did them as I normally would, front and back. Still have no brakes. No stopping power aside from the E-brake. ~Clutch - needs bleeding. Bled them as I knew how. Nothing still. ~Fuel - OK, so here's a big let down. Its not pulling fuel from the tank. So I'm not sure if it's the fuel pump or injectors. Everything else appears to be in good or OK condition. Any ideas how to assess these issues quickly? Thanks.
Last reply by Sparx Macgyver, -
- 7 replies
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Mine is a '77 280z coupe. I bought a set for remote door locks from Summit but they were too large so I am back to ground zero looking for a remote door lock solution. Wanting to see if anyone has had sucess in installing remote door locks without cutting the doors and if so, could you share a link to where I can get them? Thanks for any help......
Last reply by jthill3, -
- 20 replies
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So I had a body shop friend of mine fix the rusty rockers on my 260. In the process the hood, fenders and cowl were pulled. The seats came out and the carpet was pulled back out of the way so the welding could be done safely. Went to pick it up yesterday and it would not start. When you turn the key you can hear a click from around the starter but the starter does not turn over. I used a straight screw driver to jump the starter and it did turn over. Figuring it must be the solenoid we replaced the starter and solenoid. Still have the same problem. Anyone have suggestions as to where I should go from here?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 884 views
The whole dashboard panel is on and some days the fuel meter lights and some doesn't. Where could be the false contact ? It's a digital dashboard.
Last reply by CuadroS, -
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Just came home today with my first Z car !!! First problem I want to tackle is that the tachometers is stuck at 3500RPM. The previous owner put in a new distributer and I have found a pair of wires cut that have no home
Last reply by sekjr, -
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So I bought a 240z about a month ago. It has the L28E swap from an '83 280zx. The motor is fuel injected. The guy I bought it from let me know that the gas tank was never swapped, so it is still has the 240 gas tank with the 280 fuel set-up. He said this was causing a little gas starvation when mashing the gas pedal or taking hard turns. The car ran fine the night I got it, then started up fine the next morning. As soon as I got out to the road, I went to accelerate to make a left turn but couldn't seem to get any power out of the car. I made it to the median, and the car died. After a little bit of work, I got it started back up. I had to nurse it back home then…
Last reply by sekjr, -
- 8 replies
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As my dad was helping me remove the dash in my 280z, we took of the key ignition - connected to the steering column - and as he was removing the plugs from behind the unit, one of the male ends connected to the actual ignition (receptor? I am unsure of its correct name) came clean off. Does anyone have any ideas or previous experience with an incident like this, or possible know how I could fix it? Or am I just looking at having to replace the unit as a whole? In the first picture, the broken piece is one of those little "receptors". Is that whole unit available by itself? Its a 1976, for reference. Thanks in advanced all, John
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hello fellow Series I 69-early 71 owners! I need some help with the placement of the hatch vents. The PO of my car (#5998) had some kind of rear hatch accident. He replaced the hatch with a later hatch, so it does not have the Vented Inner Panel, Hatch Vents, or Tubing . I have purchased the vented panel, hatch vents and tubing to make it original as possible. What I need to do now is drill two holes in the later hatch and possibly cut the rectangles out on the hatch to fit the hatch vents (still debating on the rectangle cuts). Basically all I need, in millimeters, is how far the CENTERS of the two holes are apart from each other (where the hatch vent studs go into th…
Last reply by spitz17, -
Car is a 77 280z with fuel injection. I posted earlier on pg 5 now under "Trouble Running". Please see that for back ground, I have since replaced the fuel pressure regulator, cleanned the fuel rail and replaced the fuel filter. The trouble is, there is no fuel coming out of the return line when the car runs. As before, the car only runs for a few minutes, then bogs down like a vacuum leak... Still unable to advance the throttle without the car bogging down. I have also replaced the mass air flow sensor and the air regulator. I replaced the ECU, and checked the ECU plug with a continuity meter, doesnt seem to be an electrical or air problem. Has anybody had a similiar pro…
Last reply by ffBrian, -
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My ZCARCD no longer works in any of my computers. I assume its not compatible with the new acrobat program. Has anyone else had this problem?
Last reply by LBO730,
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