Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 2k views
Hi All, I am very new to this--both the car and the forum--, but hope to get some help or advice. I have a datsun 280zx which I love to peices, but recently as I am driving I notice the Tach start to jump all over the place right about the time the car starts to get warmed up, then the car starts to run rough, and dies. It's consistently happening if I rev the engine to high as well. But, I never have a problem starting the car. I have replaced the battery, battery cables, coil, fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap and rotor. Any ideas? Thanks all for any help you can give!! Gibby
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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restoring a z 1 2 3
by 76flz- 31 replies
- 4.8k views
So I got a 76 RHD Fairlady Z and it doesn't run and its pretty rusted and the interior is so so. Everything is written in Japanese. The guy I bought it from was on here his handle was rsshelton1 so if you look at that post that's the car. My question is: What should I do to get it back to a daily driver? S
Last reply by ZCurves, -
I just purchased a 1978 280Z had it shipped from CA to Wisconsin "Completly Rust free". I plan on restoring this over the winter, my question is the Dash. My dash has a small crack and I have read several links regarding replacement which can be very costly so I was looking at options of repairing or a dash cap. I have been looking at 1000's of sites and was wondering who has the best dash cap. It seems that even if you do repair a dash it will probably end up cracking again. I also noticed that you can get a full dash cap or just the upper cap. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
Last reply by vercingetorix, -
Argg :mad: 1 2
by Pomorza- 12 replies
- 1.9k views
Hello all So I bought a 280z (1976) back in August. Since that day I've had random ticking coming from the engine bay when driving for an hour or more. So like everyone advised I went and had my valves adjusted to the specs. Sound didn't go away. So I took it in again and they found that the exhaust manifold was loose and tightened it down. This made the sound slightly less audible but still there. So here's my concern. The best and only way I can think of describing this sound is its injector tick but really loud. By loud I mean LOUD. At 85mph with the windows open I can still make it out over the engine and other sounds. I ask this as this past Friday I drove down to …
Last reply by Pomorza, -
- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
The shop is ready to start putting on all the weather stripping and all rubber back on the 240, the problem is the whole set that came from precision does not list what each piece is. The doors, hatch, etc are easy to identify, put there are a lot of smaller pieces that we just don’t have a clue where they go, or if the one’s we think are right actually go there. Is there a schematic anywhere for the 240 that shows where every piece of rubber goes. Thanks for any help.
Last reply by geezer, -
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
For those who have followed along in a different thread, you know I have been chasing an engine no heat problem. I "may" have that fixed. It "may" have been an air blockage. That problem aside, I have most of the underside of the dash apart to inspect the heater control valve. When chasing the other problem, after moving the control in the cabin from hot to cold back and forth rapidly, I lost coolant flow through the heater core (as determined with the 5/8 hose off the core under the hood. I suspected I bent the wire. However, everything moves like it is supposed to. I took a separate piece of hose and tried to blow through the heater core. There was no movement of…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 9 replies
- 1.3k views
Working on 9070 and am finally putting the original tank (great shape) back in the car. I can not get the filler neck to move hardly at all. It it not flexible enough to be pulled over the tank. I has not been removed from the car at all during the restoration. I spent about an hour yesterday with various tools trying to get the two to line up. Can the filler neck be moved so I can move it up and then put it back when the tank is where it belong? Should I heat it and see if it will move? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers Richard.
Last reply by 240znz, -
- 18 replies
- 2.2k views
I've tried everything that i can think of (not pressurised air, cause i dont have compressor) to bleed the clutch properly and make it move, but no. I've bleed from master to slave in 3 different methods, ive tried to bleed from slave to master with hand pump. No results. I've read those old threads and i just cant figure what is the problem. :mad: As far as i know, fluid should come out quite quikly when pressing the pedal several times fast, well in this case its kinda of drooling out, not squirting, even i had bleed nipple fully open. I have transparent tube attached to bleed nipple so its easy to see. I've replaced slave cylinder and removed and inspected the ma…
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Does anyone know where I can buy this original tube and clamps for Series 2? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130347859624&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT I want one for my car........ I was in the meeting when this was sold on Ebay........ Esprist
Last reply by esprist, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Sorry guys I spent hours looking for this problem on the search and forums but cant find it.. Im trying to get my carbs set with the unisyn but there is one problem.. The front carb doesnt read unless I have mypalm on it and the rear reads fine.. So does anyone knwo whats going on here? I thought it was the tool but its not. I put my palm and it sucks in but the rear sucks in like it wants to eat my hand.. Any input whats going? Thanks for the help guys
Last reply by myfairlady, -
- 0 replies
- 869 views
I'm trying to find out where in Japan I can acquire a set of overfenders used on the first 240z race cars in japan, before the gnose was introduced. They are slightly wider than zg overfenders and have a little bit of a curved up lip at the end of them. You can find them on the red 240z at the np35.jp/ website and on the 240z in the linked picture. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I have a red 1971 and would like to replicate this cars nostalgic look.
Last reply by evian, -
- 12 replies
- 2.2k views
I'm buying my first Z and I was wondering what you guys think about it and how much you think I should pay for it Any comment and help is appreciated. The car is first gen 1970 240z 1400 vin number, most likely with 155k or it could be 55k don't know, California, car, no rust or rot anywhere, only some surface rust by door jams. It's been painted once in 80s, same as factory silver. The dash has normal cracks, seats bottom needs works but overall decent interior. The engine is original motor with matching 2400 valve cover, it comes with AC and it works, upgraded to 5 speed but he has the factory 4 speed for it. let me know what you think, Thanks
Last reply by JDMPalace,
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