Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Ok so i fixed most of my problem, heres whats left. i cant figure it out at all , but im runninf 3.75 CO's during the load, and i need to be running 1.5. Anyone got any suggestions of what it could be? Did spark plugs and wires which fixed the original problem, now its just trying to get this last bit done so i can finally pass emissions. Thanks guys
Last reply by '77az280z, -
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It feels like Christmas. Santa's brown sleigh, that inexplicably looked like a fed ex truck, rolled into the driveway today bringing tiding of good joy and more importantly PRESENTS! But now this brings a question. Which springs go in the front and which in the back? Is there an up or down to them?
Last reply by TriDawgn, -
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Hi Guys, My rear brakes are grinding really bad and after ordering all the parts required to do a complete overhaul I ran into a problem. Today I started to take things apart and I can't remove the old drums, it appears there's no starwheel. I have looked at both sides and had a friend take a look and we can't find one. Could the previous owner have left them out? If so how do I remove the drums? Thanks, for your help. Rick
Last reply by rickl750, -
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Hello all As I seem to keep adding threads to this forum I decided that my Z should probably have its own thread to save you all space. If anyone has any objections to this let me know. First off I've been having a periodic idle problem when hot. Last night I drove up to my corner walmart to pick up food. Was in the store five minutes. Came out, put everything back in and was on my way. Started my Z and she had a bad idle, with backfiring when I gave it gas. This lasted all of about two minutes. Afterwords she drove fine, with no problems. I've search this on the site and found that alot of you are saying it maybe the temperature sensor. Is it the thing photographed b…
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Hey guys. What is involved with replacing the heater core? Can it be done without removing the dash. At the moment my heater core is disconnected from the rest of the system as it was "leaking" according to the previous owner. I want to replace it and put in a new one as I need heat in the winter. Any tips/trick? Secondly I have A/C in the car but am in the process of removing it. Are there differences in the heater cores of car with/without AC? Thanks Jan
Last reply by theramz, -
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after sitting for a couple of months, i decided to give the car a little tune up and then start it up. i cleaned the carb bowls and cylinders, then put new ATF in. also replaced the plugs, wires, cap, and coil. after doing all of that, it started up just fine but i noticed that it was idling a little bit rough. usually it smooths out once it warms up a bit, so i revved it a little bit to warm up and it started to buckle and almost stall. the only way to get it to rev well and drive was to pull to choke so that it idled at like 850-900 rpm and the problems go away. so what could be the problem? i'm guessing it has something to do with the carbs? any help would be greatly…
Last reply by Diseazd, -
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I've seen this asked on another site, (or maybe this one) but cannot locate it for the life of me. About three weeks ago I changed my upper and lower hoses on the radiator, did a flush and added new fluid to the radiator and then filled the reservoir up. Checked it a couple days later and the reservoir was low. Two days later found that one of the hose clamps was leaking. Fixed that and thought the problem to be gone. Today I find that the reservoir is empty. The radiator is full of fluid. I haven't had any smoking and the oil looks greatmstill nice and brownish tan and smells like oil. The oil cap and the cam lobe that can be seen inside is also in great shape. What's …
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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I am going on assumption here, and i would like someone else's input if i am correct. I have been getting alot of oil leakage at the intersection of my tranny and engine. It seems to be affected by the rpm. Would this be correct to assume rear main seal? I just rebuilt the engine with all the seals new, what did i do wrong that could have caused this, I am considering pulling the engine but don't want to of course. If thats what has to be done then fine. Not happy right now. :mad: Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
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Can I run my late '74 without a ballast resistor if I upgrade the coil, or will it fry the pick up coil and/or transistor ignition unit? From what I've read, the coil can't handle the extra power, so I will replace that with a Crane Fireball or something similar. This is for the LeMons car and I'm out of time to try to find the source of the problem. If I can't figure it out soon, I need to remove the resistor. The resistor checks out fine, but the only way I can get decent voltage to the resistor is to disconnect the "start" wire to it. When I do that, I get 12.5V, at both ends of the resistor and at the coil. With everything hooked up, I get 10.3V to the resistor …
Last reply by five&dime, -
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Short version: My car has blown the same fuse three times in the last 2 days -- the fuse for the voltometer, map light and dome light. I believed the issue to be a short in the door-jamb switch, and I -thought- I'd rectified it. New issue: No parking lights/running lights or dash lights. I'm digging around in my wiring diagram, absolutely blind. Stupid question: is there a fuse for this? Long version: I started having electrical troubles after I put in a new starter (the old one was starting to grind, so I figured $35 was worth the extra state of mind). The aforementioned fuse (voltometer/dome light/map light) blew for the first time, but only blew at night after runn…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Here's the background. My barn find LeMons car is a 74.5 260Z that hasn't run in 15+ years. I swapped the carbs to SUs, cleaned the fuel system, tore the engine down and installed new gaskets. It fired right up and ran great (no tuning yet). That was Monday night. Tuesday night, after touching nothing, we went to work on the car and cranked it over. It fired right up, but died as soon as we stopped cranking. I got out the FSM and traced every wire back. I found that the black/blue wire is hot when cranking which bypasses the secondary resistor and gives the coil more voltage. That all checked out. Here are the specifics from testing: Battery +12V Black/white wir…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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went i bay the car theare was nothing no plugs no wire i really need the order:stupid:
Last reply by ezzzzzzz,
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