Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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Hi, im kinda new to this forum. I just recently bought my 240z and have put a ton of effort into making it run (It ran about 2 years ago fine based on what the guy who sold it to me said). At first I wasnt getting any fuel but after swapping all my hose's, hardlines, filters and pumps I finally got fuel squirting from the carbs. Sad to say that wasnt the end of the issues, it still wont start. Now after allot of inspection I noticed the guy had done allot of fiddling with the electrical stuff behind the dash so much so its hard to use the diagram to track colors because he changed half of them. Well anyway I was wondering if some one could please help me by posting a few …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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- 4 replies
- 934 views
My question wich one is better? For years I was under the impression that the 260 intake was bigger and better that it would give you better performance. But now I was told there is not difference. To be honest I put them next to each other and it did not looked bigger. Can you guys educate me on this please. Thank you:stupid:
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
- 0 replies
- 908 views
The digital fuel meter goes on and off, when on marks accurate and the rest of the console is on (speed and rpms). Checked the floaters with a voltmeter and everything ok (2 to 4 volts aprox). Any idea whats going on ?
Last reply by CuadroS, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
when i set #1 @ TDC....the timing mark is aprox. 90 degrees out from the 0 degree mark on the crank......i assume the harmonic balancer is defective??? am i correct???or is there adjusment like the cam timing and its in the wrong position? what degree of advance should i use for the ignition timing? the engine block casting # is F54 followed by a 0701A, s/n is L28 513794 the head casting number is P90 the computer is A11 or All-604 420/ L28 / 8Z13 the engine does have a turbo also Is there a way for me to find 0 degrees on the crank without pullin the front cover....ie, is there a key way that is at 0 degrees Thanks, Ed G
Last reply by ktm, -
- 0 replies
- 879 views
when i set #1 @ TDC....the timing mark is aprox. 90 degrees before the 0 degree mark on the crank......i assume the harmonic balancer is defective??? am i correct???or is there adjusment like the cam timing and its in the wrong position? what degree of advance should i use for the ignition timing? the engine block casting # is F54 followed by a 0701A, s/n is L28 513794 the head casting number is P90 the computer is A11 or All-604 420/ L28 / 8Z13 the engine does have a turbo also Is there a way for me to find 0 degrees on the crank without pullin the front cover....ie, is there a key way that is at 0 degrees Thanks, Ed G
Last reply by rallylife69, -
- 10 replies
- 4.9k views
Hi Folks, Searching the forums, it's clear this isn't the first time a fan blade took chunks out of a radiator. This radiator is going to the radiator shop for repair on Monday. Two quesions. 1. What would cause one fan blade to bend? 2. If I buy an electric fan to replace it, how/where do I hook up the wire? See pics. Thanks! db
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
- 6 replies
- 1.2k views
im having issues with my throtle responce and low rpm's. in first gear, if i really get on the gas, the car just drives away and gradually gets up to speed. in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th everything seems fine. in 5th gear, once i get to cruising speed i can put the pedle to the floor and get very little if any responce. but just this morning on my way home, i put the pedle to the floor and the car just took off, the way im guessing it should, and i havent been able to get it to do it since. any ideas. im thinking its the throtle valve switch, but dont really know how to test it. any wires that could be lose that im not thinking about?
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 1 reply
- 570 views
okay guys, i have read some of the walk-throughs on how to work on suspension but i cant find them anymore so new post it is. From step one im already in a pinch. In the front assy ive started by loosening the three nuts at the top of the tower but when i go to loosen the larger one in the middle it will not budge. How hard is it supposed to be? I dont really feel like breaking anything i dont have to at the moment. and just in case you were wondering, im just wanting to get in there cause i have some Eibach springs and some 16" Rewinds on the way from MSA.
Last reply by Inf, -
- 5 replies
- 2.2k views
1971 240 with SU's/header -- Coolant Water mist sprays out between my intake manifold and head -- Weird. A bit of acceleration and it becomes a little geyser. It is betwwen the number 4 exhaust and intake runners and has actually made a hole in my manifold gasket. Could it be a leak inside the intake manifold? There is a water passage there. Please help!!! Thanks!!!
Last reply by ONZEDGE, -
- 4 replies
- 2.2k views
CAN ANYBODY TELL ME WHAT PARTS A DATSUN 260Z FROM 1978 AND A 240Z HAVE IN COMMON. WHAT ABOUT CHASSIS, DOORS, WINGS, REAR HATCH AND MECHANICALS? I've just found one on ebay and it's not much money. Was thinking I could use it as a donor car. It's less than a day to go so i'd appretiate your time! Thanks very much! Matt
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi All I got a really good deal on a set of Z Therapy SU carbs for my 1971 240 BUT they are 3 screw and I have 4 screw on her now. I don't want to remove the existing carbs until I know there is not any compatiblity issues. I have compared them as closely as I can and cannot see any design differences...BUT....I could be missing something !!! Any ideas out there??? Also what oil/fluid do you recommend for the float chambers?? Thanks for any help. James
Last reply by DeesZ, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
I was driving my '71 Z and when I came to a stop and tried to start up, it died. I got it started again and continued. While climbing a hill I was losing power and finally the car died. It would not start and I had it towed home. After a few hours I tried to start it and it would only run with the choke pulled. I checked the carbs and using my hand, found the front one sucking much more than the rear. However when I put my Uni-Syn on them they were pretty closely synched up. The plugs for #4-5-6 looked decent although #6 had a small bit of oil on it. Compression was all over the map: 1-145 2-150 3-82 4-159 5-37 6-65 #5 and #6 would cause low compression and therefore low …
Last reply by mayitin,
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