Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 14 replies
- 2.1k views
While i was doing my tie rods i found a lot that needed changing in the rear oh boy . Anyway cant get a hold of beandip anyone have the puller for loan.
Last reply by yetterben, -
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- 43 replies
- 8k views
Hello all, You remember me, I'm the guy who was about to buy a lovely 240Z and then they sold it to someone else! Threaders!! Anyway, I made this find and am bringing her home next week. She's been sitting there with many rats for company for the last 23 years so I'm going to need some direction and tips ( hopefully someone selling spares too ) from anyone who has the time. Really appretiate any help recieved. Cheers all Matt
Last reply by mattbibbey, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
Very random, very 'all of a sudden' ... I left the gas station after refueling and discovered that my voltometer was pinned all the way to the left, indicating a big fat zero for system voltage (which was obviously impossible, seeing as the car was running and the lights were on, etc.) I confirmed the operational status of the electronics by taking my multimeter to the battery -- I got a nice steady 13.5 at idle (with lights on) and about 14.1 revved up (with lights still on), so I know the system is absolutely fine. The weird thing is, the dome light also stopped working after the same stop that caused the voltometer to stop working, coincidence? I don't have my FSM righ…
Last reply by KDMatt, -
- 2 replies
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the car is a 1977 280z back story..... the injectors in the car were real bad. tips were cracked and broken and probably clogged up. the engine ran real lean and the fuel pressure was low(20-25 psi) had a severe lack of power(wouldnt rev past 3k) other than that, it ran. its my daily driver. present time.... i installed new injectors and it fired up the first time and ran for only a few seconds and was unable to get it restatred(however now the fuel pressure is where it should be 36 psi). i investigated and found it to be very flooded( all 6 plugs were wet, heavy smell of gas in the exhaust pipe.) the old plugs had some speed glazing from running lean, so i switched those…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 897 views
I've finally come to the realization that I can not dedicate enough time and money to my project for at least another two years...... Does any one have a covered indoor space to rent for a rust free Cali rolling shell in the Orlando, Florida area? Obviously I'm looking for something inexpensive enough not to triple the price of what I've already got tied up into it. Any leads would be appreciated Thanks, Jim JFShamus117@aol.com
Last reply by jf117, -
- 4 replies
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1976 280z Ok after some major testing/troubleshooting I'm still completely lost. I'm new to cars and in need of some ideas. Here's the story so far. Cars starts and runs great. I leave it sitting for about a week. When I get back it refuses to start. Sometimes it'll start for 2-3 seconds then immediately dies, even if I have the gas pedal floored. -The starter is fine and turns the engine like a champ. -I've used a light gun and every spark plus is getting a spark and so is the coil -The fuel pump is working -There are no worn pvc areas or leaking areas in the air intake. -The air intake thing is turning on the fuel pump like it should. -Changed the fuel filter, checked …
Last reply by KDMatt, -
- 7 replies
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Hey Guys Just as the title says, i am not getting any fuel. I had my engine off for a while and I just put it in this weekend after a rebuild. No fuel is pumping out of the fuel pump. I separated the filter off the gas hose and the pump is creating a suction when pump it. So where do i go next?? Frankie
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
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I just bought my '78 280z and from day one it has had a bizarre problem. The car starts fine, and has no problem idling. You can hear the engine stammer every once and a while during idle, but it is not enough to cause any problems with the engine running. When you accelerate at low RPM the car lurches. If you raise the RPMs to around 2500 or so before releasing the clutch it does ok. Many times when you are shifting the car backfires right at the low end of the RPMs. Just as you are raising the clutch you will hear it *POP*. One day the car would just not run for me. If I raised the RPMs to above about 2000, the engine would just shut off, and it would do the same i…
Last reply by sboozer, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
Changing tie rod ends on my 73 currently have stands under the tc area right where the frame is the thickest. Is this safe to leave for a few days? Or should i put tires back on and lower back down. Car is in good shape just visions of sagging .
Last reply by yetterben, -
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
I have a '73 240z. The brake pedal goes all the way to the floor before the brakes will engage. The emergency brake light goes on when I press the brake pedal all the way down. The brake fluid reservoir has fluid in it. Is there a way to check the master cylinder to see if it's bad before I buy a costly replacement? It worked when I bought the car and I haven't driven it probably more than 500 miles in 5 years.
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 9 replies
- 1.6k views
I just installed the headlight relay upgrade and side marker conversion kits from MSA. What a great improvement in the headlights! However the driver side turn signal no longer works. It worked great when first installed but now nothing. The park lights work fine, the passenger side is fine but when the drivers side turn signal is activated there is a drop in revs at idle and the amp gauge deflects violently in time to the blinker unit. The rear turn signal is noticeably dimmer as well . Any suggestions?
Last reply by bpilati, -
- 2 replies
- 1.2k views
Motor sports sells a rotory AC compressor replacement kit. Has anyone installed one and is it worth changing over to the rotory compressor? Thinking of doing this upgrade. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks
Last reply by bpilati,
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