Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 21 replies
- 8.6k views
A friend just blew his fusible link . The local parts store has some but they don't have model specific info . Does anyone know the amp value for the fusible link for a '71 240 Z ? I did a search but no joy. Thanks in advance . Gary
Last reply by biddljj, -
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- 2 replies
- 908 views
I am driving from BC to Ontario in a 240z with 10,000miles on a rebuilt L28 triple webers. 280zx distributor. Fuel pressure is 3.5 psi. It ran fine for 12 hours to Calgary, in heavy rain, and for most of the way accross the prarries. Currently in Thunder Bay. Fixed many problems related to this in Calgary with zKars, as well as many other unrelated issues along the way. She still luggs when trying to give power to the wheels, especially under low RPM. Checked spark plug wires again, 3 and 4 are intermittent. Switched all wires (plugs are 2 days old, new distributor with old cap) Gives spark perfectly when holding the plug wire about 1/4 to 1/8 inch away from the female co…
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
- 11 replies
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First off I'm pretty new when it comes to fixing up cars and this 76' 280z is my first project car, that I'm trying to make a daily driver to replace my 92' cougar daily driver. My dads friend is helping me but he isn't the greatest mechanic either. So after having this car started on me perfectly for the last month, after sitting for a weekend it doesn't seem to start anymore. It turns strong but just doesn't seem to go. So far we've checked all the distributor wires, it has gas and the battery has been fully charged, despite being in poor shape. We've tried everything either of us could think of. All we did before it stopped running was was replacing the shifter bushing…
Last reply by Z Tyler Z, -
- 2 replies
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Hi got my z running a while ago and had to park for a strut change. I also had been having to jump yellow wire on starter to crank. was running car down the street after strut change and it started missing and over heating and the alt was discharging. limped it home to see fan belt had turned to dust. I went to the store and got a new one and put on yet the car still ran like I had burnt it up.never pegged the temp in just got hot when the belt let. installed a jumper wire from starter to key switch so I wouldn't have to raise hood ever time i start it. I started trouble shooting car that evening and found # 6 was not pulling its share. I pulled spark plug and swaped no c…
Last reply by Fordlover, -
- 7 replies
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Hi all, and thanks in advance to all responses. So I've got a little bump coming from the rear of car when shifting from rev. to 1st and back and forth. I isolate the sound to the right side half shaft and determine that the center flange bolt could be loose. I disconnect the 4 flang bolts where the half shaft bolts to the side flange and sure enough the center bolt was loose. So I get the Haynes manuel out and it says on page 126 the center bolt should be torqued to 50 lbs/foot. Well I grab the toque wrench start cranking it down and snap I now have broke the center bolt with the majority of the threaded end still in the flange. Upon removing the differrential plate for …
Last reply by doradox, -
- 5 replies
- 922 views
I'm not a mechanic and could really use some insight here. My '73 240z drips oil when it's running but not after the engine cools down. It just started doing it this spring after it had been in the driveway for a couple of cold months (had to move it out of the garage due to some house remodeling). Any idea what could be causing this?
Last reply by gotswap, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
I have three parts that all look the same, one has a label that can be read clearly and it has this information on it: 17011 N4765 A40-000 008 8214 L28 The 8214 is 'stamped' on the label and presumably the serial number, I can only guess that the L28 indicates the part is for the L28 engine. I have Googled the other numbers and come up with nothing. Has hose inlet/outlet so I'm thinking a pump of some kind. I have another part to add here, it's a section of wiring with a part number 27155 E4400 which I was also unable to locate via Google.
Last reply by texasz, -
- 3 replies
- 1.3k views
I was driving around 60mph, dropped it into 4th to pass some traffic then soon after I noticed the gauges all stopped working and realized the engine was off. Once i got to a stop I tried to start it, it cranked but wouldn't turn. The lights for the gauges work fine but the needles on them are all pointing south now like the way they would be when the car gets shut off. My alarm and parking lights also all work fine. The car ran fine prior to this happening. I'm thinking there is a direct correlation to the gauges not working and the engine not turning over, something electrical, blown fuse or relay? Has anyone else had this type of problem or know what the problem may be…
Last reply by UR2H, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
My Z overheated on the way home last night, and spewed out most of it's coolant. I took it into our shop and put it up on the lift today to figure out what happened. Looks like my heater core line is shot. It's fine when cold (because the thermostat isn't open) but as soon as it warms up coolant starts pouring out. I had a small leak (little dripping) there a few months ago, but tightening the clamps cleared that up. I was hoping to do the same this time (you can see I added a new clamp today) but it didn't work. I have the replacement hoses from MSA and am willing to pull everything but I'd like your guys' advice. Have any of you replaced these hoses while everything…
Last reply by JonnyRock, -
- 6 replies
- 1.6k views
Ok I've been searching this for days and can't really figure it out. I've adjusted my floats as far up as I can. The fuel level at the carb is about 1/2-1" below the jet. Either way I adjust, I can't get the fuel level up high enough (a tiny bit under the top of the jet right?) Choke is disconnected, (car starts without choke, is this normal for a Tropical climate?) and jets are butt up against the adjuster nut. The float valves work fine, tested and cleaned probably 10 times now. Fuel rises and maintains a certain level like it's supposed to, except too low. I've tried adjusting to FSM and that didn't work either. Any ideas? I'm stumped. Thanks -Vaughan
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
I really need it ASAP. Thanks!! adamr
Last reply by Arne, -
- 13 replies
- 1.9k views
M son is driving from BC to Ontario in a 240z with 10,000miles on a rebuilt L28 triple webers. 280 distributor, xr700/PS92 ignition. Fuel pressure is 3.5 psi. It ran fine for 12 hours to Calgary, in heavy rain. Now , without any load, sitting in the driveway, he says it sounds perfect at idle, and it revs up high just fine. But as soon as he tries to let the clutch out to drive, it stumbles, coughs, won't develop power. It then tries to rev up and go, then stumbles again. At high RPMs it will go, but not up a hill. It will not maintain power up a hill, or under load. He noticed a spark plug wire came off, and another lost the connector end, but that was fixed, and the pr…
Last reply by fiveleaf,
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