Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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Front frame repair 1 2 3
by hogie- 29 replies
- 12.1k views
This was supposedly done professionally. I finally got around to checking out the undercoating on the front frame rails. After I dug around a bit I found some pop riveted plates. After popping those off I found they filled the holes with great stuff. On the inside edge of the frame rails is a big peice of angle iron bolted through at the engine cradle, sway bars, and at the back edge. After pulling out the foam it looks like the inside edge of the frame is relatively sound. Also, ahead of and behind the hole feels quite solid. If I can weld the inside frame rails to the angle iron and the plate the outside with 1/8 inch steal would this be an acceptable fix? I am not …
Last reply by a7dz, -
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- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I got a new fuel pump for my 77 280z , ran good for a while,then died. It was the pump full of rust, from the tank.Now the pump is dead, can someone tell me what fuel pump I should buy and were I can get it.Also what I should do so this won't happen again. Thank you
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 5 replies
- 4.5k views
Looking for suggestions... I just tried installing the Motorsport Auto 4-piston brake upgrade kit (Toyota s12+8 calipers for solid rotors) and ran into trouble getting a reliable seal that doesn't leak brake fluid. I bought this kit (calipers, pads and brake lines) over a year ago and finally found time to install it during a front end rebuild. Since I can't return the kit, since I purchased it a while ago and also painted the calipers, I need to figure out a way to install the kit without spend more bucks. Here's the problem... This kit came with the banjo bolt stainless steel brake lines - even though it is evident that these calipers were not designed for this typ…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 11 replies
- 2.4k views
Hi there I hope somebody is out there I am trying to Carry out the ZX Alternator swap on my 1975 280Z Here is the problem Alternater is up and the connections are back on one is supposed to connect the White wire to the Yellow wire and the Green wire wuth the Red trace to the White wire with the Black trace. There is no green and red wire.! Help!!!!!
Last reply by venom42, -
- 2 replies
- 2.3k views
Hey, I have a question regarding the centering of the wipe pattern on the rocker arm. I went all stock with my rebuild so when it came to lash pads, I called MSA and asked for whatever came stock on the car and figured if i had any wipe pattern issues to work from there. I performed the wipe pattern test and i am off center towards the valve side. I called MSA to find out what the stock thickness they sent me and he said .127. Which also happens to be the thinest they have. So normal logic of going with a thinner lash pad to move the pattern towards the pivot won't work. Then he suggested shimming up the towers. I already have one shim under the towers. I was goin…
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
- 0 replies
- 786 views
I was planning to do the modification where you close off the passageways inside the BCDD on my 1978 280Z. Will this completely screw up the function of my EGR valve (since I have to pass smog), or will vacuum still be applied to that ported vacuum nipple? Thought I might ask here in advance before I started tearing into it.
Last reply by Badlose, -
- 12 replies
- 2.1k views
OK – This is the situation. The car starts fine with full choke and warms up nicely – choke gradually off and after 5 minutes it idles at about 700 rpm with no choke. After a good drive, when it returns to idle it makes a horrible wining sound and will stall or run at very low rpm. If the engine stops and I try to start it again it is very difficult to start. Choke does not help and if it starts it runs at very low rpm – and eventually stalls. I have made a video of the engine making the sound. I am the one who rev the engine in order for it not to stall – as it does in the end of the video. It’s a 73 car with 3-screw round top SU carbs. With all 73 emission …
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
- 15 replies
- 1.5k views
Hello all, new member here. I recently got a '76 ,280Z that has been in storage for 5 years. It's been a challenge to say the least. Anyway, I got it running, but the engine won't cut off with the key. I have to disconnect the battery (new battery, but it kills it ???). I replaced the switch but that didn't help. I pulled the alternator and had it checked at NAPA, it was putting out about 15V. I read somewhere that I may need to install a diode due to a feedback problem, but I don't know where or how to install it. I really appreciate any help. ol fiat
Last reply by ol fiat, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
help me please!!! I'm in urgent need of a short drive shaft from a 280ZX. I'm sorry i'm not able to give you exact model details, but I'll describe it best I can. Its a CV joint shaft. The total length (without the witches hat cover) is 510mm. to measure that I stood the shaft on the diff end, compressed the shaft into the inner cv, and let the outer part of the outer CV drop down to expose the end of the shaft and the race. I measured fromt he ground to the top of the spring seat which is on the outer end of the shaft. (so not to the end of the cover. on the inner end, the flat section where the oil grooves are is 40mm long (i'm told there are different ones of them as …
Last reply by matt240K, -
- 2 replies
- 2.1k views
my steering wheel almost fell off and into my lap while i was cruising tonight! the previous owner forgot to lock the wheel to the steering rack when they swapped a momo wheel in i guess. anyone know what size that nut is? it's the one that would go right behind the horn button. thanks!
Last reply by zKars, -
Please respond asap. Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 reply
- 884 views
do they cover Z's from the early 70's?
Last reply by hls30.com,
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