Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,104 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
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As I prepare to replace my clutch master cylinder I thought of a question. What fluid should we be using for the clutch system in our Z cars? Just regular old brake fluid? I've got a couple bottles of Red Line RL-600 full synthetic brake fluid DOT4 that I'm going to put in the brake system...is that good for the clutch system also?
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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- 2 followers
- 13 replies
- 2.1k views
Okay so my 1978 280z has a 5 speed transmission (not sure what year), has always made noise in 1st and 2nd gear when not pressing on the throttle (kinda soundings a little like a grinding and maybe whining noise). When the clutch is pressed in, no noise, if I am on throttle, no noise. Only makes noise 1st and 2nd gear when coasting (no throttle applied) and you can kinda feel it not coasting smoothly but once again only in these two gears. Based on the symptoms and pictures I provided, are my bearings or synchros bad? Asking before I pull trans for rebuild with the rebuild kit from zcardepot or if I should just buy a new trans since I am unsure if a rebuild will solve thi…
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 18 replies
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Hi guys, Is it possible for worn/torn vapor tank floor grommets to be the culprit for exhaust fumes in the cabin? If the holes were on the exhaust pipe side, I'd say I've finally found my leak but these hoses/grommets are on the passenger side of the car. (Note: I have changed the inner/outer hatch gasket, glass seal, taillight gaskets, sealed the hatch's vinyl panel, and sealed the hatch grommets) I can also see light through the accordion-style grommet that seals the fuel filler hose to the car but obviously can't glue that shut like the other I found - is that accordion bit replaceable?
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 871 views
How do you remove the e brake cable from the two attachment points under the car? I was able to finally get the two retaining clips out (what a bitch) but still can't get the cable out from between the bracket that is on the car.
Last reply by adivin, -
- 4 followers
- 130 replies
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so i just picked up a 71 240z. engine is a stock l24 with e31 head. only modification is a flamethrower ignition . car was running rough probably about 60-70% of its capabilities. so previous owner parked it and was sitting for about a year. i replaced the mechanical fuel pump , installed new spark plugs, wires , distributor cap and still runs exactly the same. i had to blow air through the return line in the fuel system to get it running so the fuel filter would actually fill up to keep the engine running. to me it seems like the carburetors aren’t getting enough fuel. i was thinking of either rebuilding them myself or ordering new ones from ztherapy, but i don’t want t…
Last reply by rosaaen89, -
- 5 followers
- 42 replies
- 4.5k views
I know this topic has been heavily discussed in the past but I am unclear on a couple things and am looking for some help.to set the scene, I’m working on an early 74 260z that to me looks like it’s bone stock and has almost everything in the engine bay that it came with. I have two sets of round top carbs and a mostly complete l24 sitting on a dolly. Also this my first Z car and I’m not too familiar with them yetNeither of the round tops that I have, have the holes on the manifold side of them that I think I are used to circulate water? So if I want to use these carbs should I use the manifold that’s on the l24 that also does not have the holes to circulate water, as opp…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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- 5 replies
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Greetings all, So, a quick overview. I have a series one 240z, which is basically stock. It does have a updated coil, but still runs points and stock fuel pump. I have had this car for over 40 years, and it has been reliable over the years. I don't drive it as much as I should, but over the last few years, it has had the periodic power loss, then dies. It "feels" electrical, or like when half a bank of cylinders goes out on a newer car, just losses power then it just dies. I can restart it after a few minutes, but have had no luck fixing the issue. When it first happened, I changed the points & plugs, then it happened again, and I replaced the condense…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 6 followers
- 8 replies
- 2k views
Anyone know where I can get this panel to repair the frame rail in the engine bay? I’d like to repair/replace the section on the left. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by Namerow, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 854 views
This piece was in the rear cargo area along with the easily identified parts and pieces that find their way into the cargo area of a car that had been sitting for quite some time. The clean and paint parts process has been going on for some time now on the resurrection project. This piece was painted the original body color and had some remnants of decals on it. I was able to read "air filter", "oil" on the label as well as a corner of a Champion spark plug decal logo. I cleaned the rusty portions and gave it a quick coat of rust primer. Just trying to prep the part and put in the appropriate box for the parts and pieces that have been been completed and will be read…
Last reply by One Way, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.3k views
Made the classic mistake of doing something without knowing what the Hell I was doing today. I was trying to take off the metal part of the door that is obscuring most of the window so I could put a nut on a bolt to attach the passenger mirror (the holes where the bolt goes in to attach the mirror to the door are too large - the bolt wont thread, so I needed a nut on the inside of the door to keep the bolts, and in turn mirror in place). I couldn't reach the bolts to put a nut on, so I thought I'd have to take the metal off. What Happened: I figured I'd have to take off all the bolts and screws I could find to get the door apart, and I started with the four scre…
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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Hello and thank you taking a look at my issue. I've just finished turbocharging my NA 1978 and have been running into many issues. Firstly, the car will crank for days but never starts, I've narrowed it down now to spark. I have disconnected the transistor ignition unit as it has an e12-80 module and distributor from a 1980 zx, with a new cap, rotor, and aftermarket ignition coil. Verified rotor is spinning. On the ignition module I have C going to Negative post on coil and B going to Positive. I have the Blue/Black wire & Blue wire connected to Negative on the coil, and Black/White connected to Positive. (There's a skinny white/black wire that I have…
Last reply by Shukize, -
- 3 followers
- 19 replies
- 3.2k views
1978 280z stock EFI I'm having a weird issue that when the engine is revved, the rpms do not go down once the gas pedal is released, the RPM's kind of just stay where they are, around 3k. I am posting because I have gone through the forums and checked off a lot of boxes, the BCCD has been unplugged, could it still be leaking air? after testing with a vacuum gauge I think that there isn't a vacuum leak, that would need to be an obvious leak also. The throttle linkage is working smoothly and the throttle plate is closing. Im just trying to think of what else could have this effect? I have an AFR gauge hooked up and it is running at about 15 when at idle and stays arou…
Last reply by Yarb,
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Yarb
