Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,099 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
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Down the road from where I am living is a really nice looking 1977 280Z for sale. I was looking it over closely this evening and discovered that there is only about three inches of ground clearance from the frame to the ground and about six inches from the lowest part of the body under the door to the ground. Is this normal or has this car been lowered? Thanks.
Last reply by beandip, -
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Tried to buy it today, but said it was out of stock here.
Last reply by mazdatsun428, -
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My '77 is all fixed as I want it but I still have this problem: 1. Running Rich 2. MPG is 17mpg - was up to 22mph for a few days...... 3. I can feel the gas loading up coming out of 1st and 2nd gear (bogs down a little) 4. All tests at a local NISSAN dealer with a "gray beard" mechanic show no problems. I even left it with him for 3 weeks but he could not find anything. I do drive her every day and the backend is showing the collection of black smoke from running rich. My question is: 1. Since I am not a mechanic at all, what kind of shop could I take her to - ie like a Race Shop, a luxury car shop, etc???? I am not sure where to go with this now. I am in the Atlanta …
Last reply by jthill3, -
hey all, Ok, i could shoot myself for my latest problem on my 240z. I am undergoing a full restoration and I am in the process of redoing the suspension. Last week I was removing the hub nut on the stub axle and while attempting to remove the nut I snapped the stub axle in half. This by the way was after spending two horrible days removing the spindle pin. Does anyone know where I can get a new axle at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance Matt
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
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I have an early 74 260Z with a bad ground which I am trying to isolate and fix. I was driving, everything good. The whoof...no power to anything, not even a click in the ignition. Burnt out a fusible link. Was able to hotwire it by connecting a wire from the coil to the battery and jumping the starter, that allowed me to get the car home. After I replaced the fuse link it burnt up immediately after I hooked up the positive to the battery but still no power was going anywhere. Looked over the fuse link box and noticed that one of the connectors was badly corroded so I ditched the box and and spliced in some new fusible link wire with butte connectors. Immediately af…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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i need help from someone with a 2 plus 2 car as i think i've purchased an incorrect nos drip rail molding which was supposed to be for my 73 240z. the existing drip rail runs 20 inches up the window vertically and 36 inches horizontally along the roof line. the nos replacement i was shipped has the same 20 inch vertical rise, but runs 38 inches along the roof. does anyone know if this is for a newer car, ie post 73, or a 2 plus 2 model? if someone needs one, it's nos perfect in the bag.
Last reply by Mike B, -
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OK, so here's another question about my header install. On the original manifold there was a heat collector that funnled hot air to the air cleaner via a flexible hose. I'm going to keep the original air cleaner assembly, but the header does not have the mounts for that heat collector. So do I need that collector anymore, and, wasn't that heat used for the choke system somehow?...anyway you've given me lot's of help with the smog devices, now I can use a little more help. Thanks
Last reply by Arne, -
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Maybe needs to go to the electrical forum, but it's a definite HELP ME!! Some info! 75 280Z running an L28ET on Megasquirt II with an EDIS system. Problem SHOULD NOT rest with these components. Should be a general car problem. Alternator converted to internally regulated via thread mentioned here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Bought the car needing a fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump. Found out the car doesn't recharge the battery. -Battery's GOOD. -Alternator's GOOD. ( on my 3rd alt now! First one tested good, then bad. 2nd was from a parts car, good then bad. 3rd is definitely GOOD ) -Wiring going to L and S connections ( exciter and…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
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schools starts in a few minutes and i have removed wheel, cotter pin, nut and now i am stuck i have no idea how to use this tie rod puller can someone show me a diagram or picture of where to put it i cant get the tie rod to budge
Last reply by Galaxybj, -
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Hi all--- I have an original 50,000 mile 73 240Z that has the dealer installed A/C package. It is all functional, but lost it's charge of R-12 over 36 years.:surprised Took it to an A/C shop, they pulled a vaccuum, and it held steady for an hour--so no apparent leaks. Charged it with R-12 till the low side was 30 lbs. and the high side was 130 lbs. It was dispensed from a 30 lb. cylinder so no figure was available for how much refrigerant was used. It works and chills the evaporator to 24+F. :classic: Cold air at the vents though, as expected, the volume of air flow doesn't compare to modern units----I am pretty satisfied all in all. Cost was $103.00 tax included.…
Last reply by MikeW, -
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I have finally got the wiring sorted out well enough to get the engine to crank over and fire through the ignition switch, however I have a couple of questions concerning oiling before I really try to get the engine up and running. I can't locate my oil sender wire, so to see if I was getting any pressure I pulled the sender out and didnt get any oil pouring out as I cranked the engine. I probaly cranked it 7 or 8 seconds a couple of times in a row. How long should it take to get anything? Other than gutting a distributor and using the shaft on a drill is there a good way to prime it? I have several pumps laying around and may replace this one just to see if that will…
Last reply by hogie, -
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When running on the interstate at about 60mph, my oil pressure reads about 20 to 30 (about 25% of the gauge) but it drops to almost zero at the red light. This is not normal is it? Thanks for any help
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi,
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