Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 999 views
OK, so here's another question about my header install. On the original manifold there was a heat collector that funnled hot air to the air cleaner via a flexible hose. I'm going to keep the original air cleaner assembly, but the header does not have the mounts for that heat collector. So do I need that collector anymore, and, wasn't that heat used for the choke system somehow?...anyway you've given me lot's of help with the smog devices, now I can use a little more help. Thanks
Last reply by Arne, -
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- 35 replies
- 3.7k views
Maybe needs to go to the electrical forum, but it's a definite HELP ME!! Some info! 75 280Z running an L28ET on Megasquirt II with an EDIS system. Problem SHOULD NOT rest with these components. Should be a general car problem. Alternator converted to internally regulated via thread mentioned here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Bought the car needing a fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump. Found out the car doesn't recharge the battery. -Battery's GOOD. -Alternator's GOOD. ( on my 3rd alt now! First one tested good, then bad. 2nd was from a parts car, good then bad. 3rd is definitely GOOD ) -Wiring going to L and S connections ( exciter and…
Last reply by 70 Cam Guy, -
- 25 replies
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schools starts in a few minutes and i have removed wheel, cotter pin, nut and now i am stuck i have no idea how to use this tie rod puller can someone show me a diagram or picture of where to put it i cant get the tie rod to budge
Last reply by Galaxybj, -
- 9 replies
- 2.9k views
Hi all--- I have an original 50,000 mile 73 240Z that has the dealer installed A/C package. It is all functional, but lost it's charge of R-12 over 36 years.:surprised Took it to an A/C shop, they pulled a vaccuum, and it held steady for an hour--so no apparent leaks. Charged it with R-12 till the low side was 30 lbs. and the high side was 130 lbs. It was dispensed from a 30 lb. cylinder so no figure was available for how much refrigerant was used. It works and chills the evaporator to 24+F. :classic: Cold air at the vents though, as expected, the volume of air flow doesn't compare to modern units----I am pretty satisfied all in all. Cost was $103.00 tax included.…
Last reply by MikeW, -
- 6 replies
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I have finally got the wiring sorted out well enough to get the engine to crank over and fire through the ignition switch, however I have a couple of questions concerning oiling before I really try to get the engine up and running. I can't locate my oil sender wire, so to see if I was getting any pressure I pulled the sender out and didnt get any oil pouring out as I cranked the engine. I probaly cranked it 7 or 8 seconds a couple of times in a row. How long should it take to get anything? Other than gutting a distributor and using the shaft on a drill is there a good way to prime it? I have several pumps laying around and may replace this one just to see if that will…
Last reply by hogie, -
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When running on the interstate at about 60mph, my oil pressure reads about 20 to 30 (about 25% of the gauge) but it drops to almost zero at the red light. This is not normal is it? Thanks for any help
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 5 replies
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I have read through the forums regarding and just would like somebody with a little more expertise to give me there approval. I have a my 2.4L at the shop and they are tellin me my head is warped 12 thousands. They want to either shave this or cook it and reverse the bend. I am considering just shaving and buy some 15 thousands shims for the cam from thezstore.com and calling it a day. Any other concerns i should have or should i go with the oven and reverse bend method. I appreciate any advice. Thanks Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
- 13 replies
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Hi, my name is neil, i just bought a 1971 240, and im in the process of doing a tune up, when i got it earlier today, it wouldnt stay alive, it would half idle with the gas pressed down a fair way, but after a spark plug change, it will have some semblance of idling, but it does not want to rev, but if you work the throttle a bit, once it gets past about 1500 it will rev fine, is this just a carb problem, what can i do to fix it? Also, back to my original quesiton, what Type of oil, filter, and how many quarts also also, can anyone fill me in on how to change the oil in the SU carbs, sorry for any stupid questions, im pretty new to these cars thanks -Neil
Last reply by 71Nissan240Z, -
- 2 replies
- 1k views
Well Spent last night getting the crossmember out. One of the bolts was nearly frozen, I swore I was going to shear it but I got it out OK. Tomorrow I will borrow a 17mm wrench from work to get the mount off. The rubber had separated on the bottom. THe strap on top of the diff looks OK, but is there something I can spray on it to preserve/protect the rubber while I'm at it? These are NLA, can I possibly use like a leather belt up there??? I also have a new throttle boot and see that the accelerator side has threads for the ball to come off; Does the ball just pop off of the stud?? Just pull it off?? Dont want to break anything... Hopefully this fixes my clunk, if not I'…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 1.9k views
I just bought a 78 280z that I have been having troubles with. Periodically while I am driving it it doesn't run while I am giving it gas. Idles fine, but as soon as I put it under load it dies. Release the gas and it runs fine again. Just recently I went through the factory service manual and started checking all the sensors. I cleaned off a bunch of grounds, unplugged and plugged in the control box, and fixed what I thought was a bad ground on the air regulator. Now it runs REALLY rich. White smoke out the exhaust and smell of gas. But I don't think I did anything. I'm really confused.
Last reply by Mightyjustice, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
I'm not sure if the rubber that I received from Black Dragon is correct for my 1972 240Z. At present I don't have the correct glass in my rear hatch, what I have is a piece of fitted plexiglass with a regtanular rubber seal. (I have a used glass to install on hand). The rubber seal that I received has two 90 degree corners. If laid on the floor it looks like the letter D. Does this sound like the correct seal to you guys that have replaced your rear hatch glass seals or should it be formed in a regtanular form with four 90 degree corners? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by jtl260z, -
- 4 replies
- 2.7k views
Hi, im not sure if this is the right forum, im new here, and im going to take a look at a nice 1970 240z on monday. Ive never owned one of these cars nor taken much time to research them, as it was a spur of the moment decision to look at it, but i need your help, i want to know what i should be looking for once im there, what kind of tell tale signs and notorious things about the car that only you guys would know about before purchasing this car. Any help from you would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
Last reply by adamr,
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