Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,105 topics in this forum
-
- 2 replies
- 3.2k views
Can anyone tell me where I can find the torque specs for 78 z l28 Thanks for any help ..
Last reply by 280ZCR8ZEE, -
-
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
I have a 76 280z with an L28 and am having some strange issues. 1/2 the time when I start my car, doesn't matter if it's cold or hot it runs really bad while the other 1/2 it runs just fine. By running bad I mean the idle drops to around 500 and black smoke that smells like gas comes out of the exhaust. Because my brakes don't work very well I started to think that it might have something to do with my brake power booster. I went to autozone and got a vacuum tester. While my car is running poorly, with the tester hooked up to the brake booster vacuum line it reads around 5psi. When I rev the engine it goes up to about 10-15 psi and drops right back down to 5 and trie…
Last reply by cali260Z, -
- 20 replies
- 3.1k views
After the re build of my motor i have been spending some time adjusting the engine and just cant get it running smooth, i have been reading searching and reading, but still i cant figure this out. The motor is a L24 with L26/28 crank, flat top pistons, late E88 head, C-cam round tops (3 screw) SM needles and Pertronix It also have headder and of course my new exhaust http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34025 At the first start up i set the timing to 5 degrees according to the FSM, turned down the mixture nuts 2.5 turn and synced the carbs, the car sputters, backfires or after fires, depending on how much i turn down the adjustment nuts, float hight is set …
Last reply by =Enigma=, -
- 5 replies
- 1.7k views
So, this is my first time driving my '78 Z on a regular basis in such hot weather. A recent heat wave has brought temperatures well into the 90s. Here's the problem: When I go to start it (cold engine), it runs fine. But when I park and return to start it within 20 or 30 minutes (engine still hot), it doesn't start. It takes a long time to finally get it running, and once I do it runs great. I'm aware that vapor lock is non-existent with EFI, so are there any other diagnoses? Does it have to do with the heat or is that just a coincidence?
Last reply by DatsunZsRule, -
- 1 reply
- 949 views
Well, I need to know if anyone has experienced this and how it was repaired - I went to open the rear hatch one day recently and the right side "sagged" and scraped a bit on the roof. I took it apart today and discovered the "tab" on the hatch is flexing where the welds hold it to the hatch. It has not broken the welds completely loose, but it certainly needs to be repaired. Any one out there see this and how was it repaired? Is it fairly straight forward for a body shop to repair? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Arne, -
- 6 replies
- 1.1k views
Where is the heater control valve? hot air blows from defrost or vents even when selector is set to cold.. please help..:stupid:?
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 20 replies
- 2.4k views
OK, so I've searched around and done what I can so far, but I think this is bigger than I can figure out myself. First, I bought my 76 280Z about 2 and half months ago with some minor problems. Some have been addressed. Some have not. I realized quickly that my turn signals did not work, however, that my hazard lights did. So, after some quick searches, I found a few things which could be the culprit: the ignition relay, the turn flasher unit, the turn signal switch, etc. Ignition relay: switched in another one, car ran horrible, no gauges still Turn flasher unit: switched in another one, still no signals, no "click" either indicating it was on. Have NOT cleaned the…
Last reply by usafdarkhorse, -
Ive spent too many hours with limited success. It has been running rough the last few weeks with extreme loss of power. I tore the carbs apart cleaned them and put them back on and tuned them. Most power has returned but still running rough. The air flow is ballanced, im at 1 and 7/8 turns mixture, both float bowls appear to be working the same. Heres where the issue lies im sure: When i press on the piston lift button on the back carb (making it only run on the front carb) it lowers slighly in rpm and runs a little rough. That means the front carb is tuned correcly from my understanding. BUT when i do the same on the front ( making it run only on the back carb) it stalls…
Last reply by geezer, -
- 0 replies
- 700 views
My 280z has a auto trany.. When I take off the car runs fine when i get up to 25 - 30 mph then it spits and sputters if i hold the gas down the car will die I let up on the gas then it runs fine. It starts fine and idles fine. Even if I'm just sitting and give it a little gas its starts to spit and sputter. I put new plug wires and plugs in, new fuel pump and a new but used AFM. Nothing is working. The old owner did not drive it much and it only has 38000 miles. I had to change the fuel filter as soon as I got it home. The problem started after I sprayed the engine off.
Last reply by drifus, -
- 14 replies
- 1.9k views
I put in an inline, low pressure fuel pump, and hot wired it to a switch. The wiring: From battery to an inline fuse(30amp) to switch. From acc on switch to the fuel pump. From ground on switch to Firewall to ground it. When i wired the fuel pump i just put it back where the OEM pump went and wired the power wire on the pump to the green power wire at the pump coming from under the passenger seat area. Then wired the ground on the pump to the black wire that ran with the green power wire, assuming it was a ground. It work's great, come's on when I hit the switch, shut's off when I turn it off. But when I had it running and turned the pump and the ignition off, it kept ru…
Last reply by supraman, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
I'm in the process of replacing numerous parts to remedy "running rich" in a 78 280Z. The last item is the csv but I want to be certain that it is or is not functioning. Is there any way to bench check it off the car, similar to the 9 volt test for the injector. I know you can check it while its installed on the car but I'm working on the motor and don't want to put everything back just to check the csv. Thanks
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 13 replies
- 3.1k views
Help! 2/1971 240Z with later year Z "B"-model 5-speed, I believe. New master & slave clutch last May. *Never* speed-shifted or abused. Worked flawlessly all last summer. However, now after winter storage, when I try to put her into gear, no matter where the gearshift lever is, the tach drops, and you can tell the clutch is beginning to engage, but I don't think the car wants to move in either direction. I'm kind of afraid, as it's in the garage and I don't want to launch the car through the walls! The shift lever doesn't feel normal either, it doesn't seem to want to follow the normal modified H pattern, so I don't want to do anything to hurt her without more knowled…
Last reply by doradox,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
