Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
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- 4 replies
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I am a new member so HI everyone. I just recieved a 73 240 Z with terrible wiring, broken,naked, ect. Where can I get a decent wiring harness? Maybe someone out there has one? hopefully. Thanks and have fun life is to short. Mike
Last reply by overdrivex, -
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- 4 replies
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Here is the problem, I sent my early 260z with SUs to tidewater Z to be fixed. I thought it was the fuel pump. I picked it up today he said it was not the fuel pump, but a miswiring under the dash. Well I started her up her idled just fine. I got about a block away and it started sputtering like it was not getting gas. So I pulled over to a parking lot near by and took my other car with my mother and got some gas. Came back put 2 gallons in. To my misfortune the little white pour tube that screws on the gas can fell into my gas pipe. I'm not sure if there is some sort of block before the tank, but I think it got into my tank. I hope not. Anyway, I started it up just fine…
Last reply by KenshinX, -
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A quick summary: This Winter, I installed a 4.11 R180, a 280 ZX 5 speed, new rear KYB's, new urethane bushing kit and refurbished (cleaned, painted) my rear control arms. The diff. was nice and tight when I installed it, no play. The u-joints are all original, but none of them had any slop at all. The driveshaft u-joints had no slop either. Everything from the tranny back came out of the car during the process, except the fuel tank. I didn't have any rear end noise with the original set-up. I know that I need to go back and re-torque the rear suspension bolts, because I had the car up in the air when I torqued them, and I now know that's no good. But I figured it …
Last reply by Weasel73240Z, -
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I have a 1977 280z 2+2 California model. I've noticed (having purchased it fairly recently) that the fuel gauge works on starting, then I hear a slight click, as from a relay, and the fuel gauge drops to nothing. The gauge reads evidently accurately until this occurs. Any suggestions on this? I've tracked the wiring down, and it appears to be intact on this circuit. I'm going to be repairing the old fuse box (due to a previous owner job cutting the wires and replacing it, but using the wrong gauge of wire, and using wire crimps rather than solder). Major project on this one, but I'm loving it. New injector connectors going in there this week, new clutch, replaci…
Last reply by 1oldmotorguy, -
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ok my 240 will crankrite up wen cold but dose not want to crank wen warm but runs good ne way ne ideas
Last reply by john mcgarvie, -
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My 1978 280z starts fine, idles and runs well when it's cold, but after a few miles the idle becomes rough and she starts to hesitate below 2k rpm. I looked around and found other threads where people had the same problem as me and there were a few suggestions ,but the original poster never posted back to say if they fixed the problem or not. Can someone please help my baby? Here's some pictures of her.
Last reply by FilipeA, -
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or i will give you the low down and ne input would be good i got a 72 240z the head gaskit was blone so i changed it and i put 71 su carbs know it runs good but smokes more or less depending on how i set the carbs i can set the carbs to not smoke but the engine will hesitate on exceleration bad oh yea 1,2,and3 spark plugs look good but 4,5,and6 have a light gray coat on them
Last reply by john mcgarvie, -
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im the ceramic thing under the coil is on my 72 240z and some one has lost the points and put some sort of optical sensor in the dist can i bypass the i think it is called a balist for a hotter spark
Last reply by Ttiger, -
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- 665 views
i have a 77 280 and ive got a few issues i could use some help with. in the engine bay there are a number of cut wires and hoses that i dont know were they are suposed to be coming from, going to, etc. everything on the car seems to be working so im having trouble diagnosing it. attached to this post is a couple pics so you can see what im talking about. any help would be greatly appreteated.
Last reply by racebird1, -
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I am looking for the choke cable support bracket that mounts to the valve cover. as I understand the 1974 260z only used this bracket ,it mounts almost in the center from back to front.if anybody has one and not useing it, it would help me. of course I would pay for it also kurt
Last reply by kully 560, -
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- 747 views
O.K., now I have a question regarding the heat shield. I know that the throttle return springs need to hook up to something, but do I have to re-use the heatshield for this purpose or can I fabricate a bracket using the heatshield as a template? Again, thanks for all the help out there for previous questions.
Last reply by dodgermike, -
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I just picked up a 72 240z and noticed some wonderful frame repairs after the fact. For the most part the rust is just on the surface and can be easily removed. However there are a couple of areas that I am very concerned about. These next two pics are the back edge of the floor pans as it rises up above the axle. I am betting these are important for structural strength, but I searched and didnt see any posts pertaining to repair/replacement of the rear frame rails. If i just chop out the rust and re-weld as opposed to rivet these back to the pan will it be safe or is a replacement piece available? Thanks
Last reply by gnosez,
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